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BFH Time!!!!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 89OKIE, Nov 27, 2001.

  1. 89OKIE

    89OKIE Registered Member

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    I HAVE DONE EVERYTHING I CAN THINK OF TO FIX MY BRAKE PROBLEMS.NEW- PADS, ROTORS, CALIPERS, AND RUBBER BRAKE LINES. HAD THE BACK ADJUSTED AND ALL THE LINES BLED. THE THING STILL PULLS TO THE RIGHT AND EVEN WORSE AS THE ROTORS HEAT UP. IS THERE A VALVE OR AN ADJUSTMENT SOMEWHERE? GOT NEW WHEEL BEARINGS ALSO. ANY IDEAS? IT'S GETTING DANGEROUS!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  2. Blazer_Boy

    Blazer_Boy 1/2 ton status

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    There is a proportioning valve up on the front crossmember, worth a look.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://new.wavlist.com/movies/031/ag-blow.wav>"I ain't nobody, dork."</a>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76>http://www.geocities.com/bigkern76</a>
     
  3. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    I thought that was front to back proportioning. Has your blazer ever been wrecked? Mine used to pull a little bit to the right too. I removed the sway bar for fun one weekend and it quit pulling. Turns out the front end had been hit and the sway bar was tweaked. Anyway it quit pulling when I braked. Not sure of the corallation, but I left it off! Maybe a bad tierod end?

    That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
    Jim
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Maybe you could take it out on a loose gravel road and try a moderate stop. It will be more apparent if only one front is braking. if you have even braking up front you'll know to look elsewhere.

    I'm assuming you checked the air pressure in both fronts? How are the wheel bearings?

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
     
  5. shawnboy

    shawnboy 1/2 ton status

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    I would definately check for worn suspension parts. Sounds to me like it's more than a brake problem.
    Shawnboy.

    <font color=red>If you are having too much fun it's probably illegal.</font color=red>
     
  6. newyorkin

    newyorkin 1 ton status

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    And check the balljoints, steering linkage, too.

    Ratch
    <a target="_blank" href=http://k5.8m.com>k5.8m.com</a>
    Welcome to America.
     
  7. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    check the rear wheel cylinders...sometimes one gets messed up and doesn't work

    90K5
     
  8. michaelm

    michaelm 1/2 ton status

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    caliper guide pins? where those replaced with the calipers
     
  9. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    i had the same problem on mine. i changed the calipers two times, bleed the brakes 100 times, changed pads, even replaced the porpr. valve(didn't know at the time it controled front and back). well i solved the problem by replacing the pads again, i was using sh$ty autozone pads so i switched to pep girls (raybestose) pads. and the result, problem fixed. i also had the rotors turned and that helped even more.
     
  10. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    A bad shock can also cause it to pull to the side when braking. Even a bad one on the rear can cause problems.
    I had a bad rear shock. My K5 quit pulling to the right when braking, when I put new shocks all the way around.

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Thunders-Blaze>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Thunders-Blaze</a>
    <font color=blue>NEVADA: Where the pavement ends, and the West begins.</font color=blue>
     
  11. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Both rear brakes are fed from a single line. If one wheel cylinder is messed up, the rear brakes can pull to the side, but it won't make the front brakes uneven. Bad pulling from the brakes is almost always a problem up front.

    Something else to look at is to make sure that there is no rust or dirt behind any of the brake pads. Some of this stuff is compressible and takes up some of the slack in that side, putting less actual pressure on the pad-rotor interface. "Anti-squeal" shims that are old or bent or even "disc brake quiet" adhesive can sometimes have this same effect.

    It is critical for the guide pins, little sleeves and caliper sliding points be clean and greased.

    <font color=green>Oh man, 4:10's are sure better than 3.08's!</font color=green>
     

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