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Big lift on a 1990 Suburban

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by KingSuburban, Mar 12, 2006.

  1. KingSuburban

    KingSuburban Registered Member

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    Location:
    Jamestown, NY
    I have a 1990 Suburban I have rebuilt with a 6" SkyJacker lift and a 3" body lift to fit the 38" TSL Radials, you can see the build-up on my web site www.BURBEN.com

    [​IMG]

    I have a few questions I feel this site will be able to help with.

    I am swapping in the 1-ton running gear from my 84 K30 Plow Truck "Rusty"

    1) Is there anything special I need to look out for in swapping these in? Will they bolt up with my current U-bolts?

    2) I have the 12" front Superlift springs and will be installing these at this time too, what is the best way to set up the cross over steering? I have a 84 3/4-ton 2wd steering box.

    3) I saw pictures of the echobit flips but am concerned with how they keep the shackle from rotating back and forth? Does any one have any other pictures of them installed?
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    4) I have seen multiple setups of the front shackle drops, is there one philosophy that is better than others?
    [​IMG]

    I would like to clear 49's and safely drive it.
     
  2. DEMON44

    DEMON44 Low-Tech Redneck

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    This guy's in Alberta here somewhere, not sure where though. Those are 49" iroks. Daily drives it too.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. AKbigsub

    AKbigsub 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    [​IMG] [​IMG] Very nice!
     
  4. bigbadchev84

    bigbadchev84 1/2 ton status

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    this is my drop hangers, and while it got me in the air it was more of a headache than anything it dont steer very well with push and pull steering, and the driveline angle in the front is a mile off

    k 023.jpg

    k 025.jpg

    k 042.jpg

    pics 006.jpg
     
  5. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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  6. bigbadchev84

    bigbadchev84 1/2 ton status

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    flame me i deserve it, but it has never hit pavement like that, and 12" springs are on there way with stock bracket hangers
     
  7. Big89Burban

    Big89Burban 1/2 ton status

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    I wouldnt do more than 12"s. Its just too much. My burb is on 12" springs and I managed to keep normal driveshafts in it and have been driving it to work 27 miles one way and back everyday. The way I see it is 12" is the cutoff. If you go much higher than that then your just asking for all kinds of headaches and have to fab up all this crap. Its just more headache and more down time. When you can just do a body lift (yeah i know no one wants them) and be done with it in like 3-4 hours. Then instead of fabbing critical parts to your suspension all you have to do is raise your bumpers to match and hide the gap in the rear.

    I'm on 12" springs & 3" body. I'm kinda happy that I was talked out of doing all suspension. That way I could keep normal driveshafts in it incase something breaks and to save $$$. Plus if this thing were any bigger I literally could not get in it.


    http://i2.tinypic.com/ravsbr.jpg
    [​IMG]

    Here's an old one. Thats my bro in the pic he's like 6'3"
    For some reason these pics dont wanna work right..
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2006
  8. ratzila

    ratzila 1/2 ton status

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    Welcome to the site King Suburban This info is on the 1990 suburban that I used to own. The new owner has installed 49" IROKS with the lift I had.

    12" Springs are do able for a daily driver but it's getting all the other parts to work, I've got a Suburban on 12" front springs, 6" rear, 4" shackle flip & 1" zero rate blocks w/ 1" push to recenter the rear axle, the front axle has a 7 degree shims with a 1" push also pushing the front axle forward for more tire clearance and rolling it 7 degree's for a better pinion angle. The driveshafts are where you can't cut corners, I have a 1410 size front 80 degree cv w/ 1410 at the front D60 as well, no binding of any sort, the rear is a 1350 series w/ 1350 at the 14-bolt, because it's on a suburban the rear is easy but still needs a cv, both my driveshaft came from Jess at Highangle Driveline, not cheap by any means but you get what you pay for. On 44" boggers my suburban cadillac's down the road, it can be done but you've got to spend the bucks.... I've built several trucks that big and if you need any help email me at offroad@cableone.
     
  9. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    KingSuburban,
    How much are you going to be wanting for that 6" lift kit?
    thanks,
    James
     
  10. ZooMad75

    ZooMad75 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I've had my echobit flips on for a year now. Pounded the snot out of them too. No movement what so ever on the flip brackets. Mine were really tight going on the stock hanger in the first place. One thing you don't se is the shape of the backside of the bracket. It is different than the outside and kind of nestles in the backside of the stock hanger to help it lock in. even still, one could put a couple of tack welds on it if they were really concerned about it moving. Mine hasn't.

    Good luck finding them if you don't have them. Check out the ORD, DIY4x or Sky versions to replace the stock hanger completely.
     
  11. KingSuburban

    KingSuburban Registered Member

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    I am going to put it on my K30 axle donor truck.
     
  12. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    12" lift... that gonna be a big truck....

    I had 12" lift and 3" body and before I got it done NJ changed their lift laws :crazy:

    so now I am down to about 8" total lift... and 40" hawgs (38.8 on 12" wide rims) to be street legal....

    now my truck isnt as big as it used to be but tell ya what... im having trouble fitting in the trails... and not width wise... height wise... I hit my kc's on branches... but they are broke anyway... but I even tag my windshield on branches... :doah:

    couldnt imagine being as big as I was.... hell I was even going on rockwells and 53's!!!!! :bow:
     

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