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BlazzinOR sub ??

Discussion in 'Audio' started by Thumper, Jan 3, 2001.

  1. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    When you installed your subs in the side panels, did you have to insulate behind the speakers? eg enclose the area around the speaker? (subs and 6x9s) I would think that the metal of the panels would cause some wierd sounds from the speakers? If you did, what did you use? Also, is it detrimental to sound to have the magnet of the speaker flush against the box panel of the truck? The 6x9s that I have are so deep that when I install them into the holes, they stick (magnetically) to the box sides. Thanks.

    Mike


    <font color=blue>Thumper
    85 Fullsize Jimmy
    [​IMG]
    <font color=red>Lets Go Wheelin! </font color=red>
     
  2. DBLAZER

    DBLAZER 1/2 ton status

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    You will probably want to have the sub in an encloser. Seald off. They will run more efficiantly that way. 95% of subs out there are designed to be in an encloser. As for your 6x9, no, there shouldnt be any issue with the magnet touching. HAVE A NICE DAY!![​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://dblazer.coloradok5.com>http://dblazer.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  3. Derf00

    Derf00 1/2 ton status

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    I am in the process of doing the exact same thing. However, I am building an enclosure for the sub. According to the specs for the 10" sub I am installing, it requires aproximately .75 cu ft of air space in the enc. I will build a small enclosure behind the side wall and seal it with silicone. The sub may have to be shimmed so it doesn't hit the inside wall. It is my understanding that the enclosure shape doesn't matter as long as it has the required air space.
     
  4. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    Used the entire area behind the side panel as my "box". NO, not the right way to do it, but it works...........and it still thumps pretty good. The magnet does not touch the wall, has about a half inch gap. I "shimmed" it out with a particle board spacer.

    Hey, if anyone ever figures out how much cubic feet that space behind the side panel is, please post it. Would like to know.

    <font color=orange>'79 - 406 TPI -<font color=orange> K5#5 - <font color=blue>See it at---&gt;<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.blazzinor.coloradok5.com>http://www.blazzinor.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  5. Confederate9

    Confederate9 1/2 ton status

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    blazinor~ i know you have the pics on your site, but how did you do that?! i am REALLY interested. can u please email me instructions on how you did that.
    i need that because of theft of a box w/ my soft top.
    if you could email it to me that would be SO awesome:
    Confederate9@aol.com

    Confederate's w/ K5's!
    '85 K5: BIG BAD AND MEAN
    K5: Because size DOES matter
     
  6. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    Posted it here for others with the same question.

    Take off the original flimsy side panels. Use them as a template for the 5/8" or thicker wood you will use for the panels. Lots of guys posted about using MDF. I used particle board. Worked great. Take you time with all the cuts, you want this to fit TIGHT. Use a router back by the tailgate to thin out the wood (you have to in order to get the gate shut!). Use a heckuva lot of large sheet metal screws to attach the panel to the wall. Use the original template for the screw hole locations. Stop the new side panel about 3 inches from the front door. This way you don't have to deal with the curvature of the body there, nor will you have to move the seat belt mount location. Pretty easy to do, just take your time. Think it all out as you go...........I used particle board for the spacer to get the 10" MTX speakers to fit without touching the metal wall. Any more questions, let me know.........hope this helps.

    <font color=orange>'79 - 406 TPI -<font color=orange> K5#5 - <font color=blue>See it at---&gt;<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.blazzinor.coloradok5.com>http://www.blazzinor.coloradok5.com</A>
     

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