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Bleeding brakes

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 84k5, Aug 20, 2000.

  1. 84k5

    84k5 1/2 ton status

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    I'm going to get those extended brakeline sometime this week, and hopefully put them on next weekend. I read the Haynes manuel on how to bleed the brakes, but I still have a couple questions, first off, is the bleeder valve the thing in the middle of the caliper that points up? Is this what I put the wrench on and the clear hose? Anybody have any tips for installing brakelines or bleeding the brakes? Thanks.

    Brian
    84k5, 4"Skyjacker lift,33x12.5 Goodyear MT/R, 15x10 Bajas
     
  2. MudRebel350

    MudRebel350 1/2 ton status

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    Yup thats the bleeder, its about a 10mm wrench i think. I think the bleeding sequence is RR, LR, RF, LF for our trucks cause it has a diagonal system. make sure the master cylinder is filled up before you bleed each wheel, do it till solid fluid comes out with no air bubbles at all. Do you know what bleeding method you will use. Id say get a friend and have him sit in the car and he has to pump the brakes about 4 times, then hold the pedal, and you have to open the bleeder while he holds the pedal. Make sure he doesnt let off the pedal when the bleeder is open cause then youll have more air in your lines. Do this until theres no air left in the system.

    JD
    88 Gmc Jimmy
     
  3. 84k5

    84k5 1/2 ton status

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    ok, this is a bit of a retarded question but, which side would be the right side? is it when looking at the front, or like when in the driver seat?

    Brian
    84k5, 4"Skyjacker lift,33x12.5 Goodyear MT/R, 15x10 Bajas
     
  4. MudRebel350

    MudRebel350 1/2 ton status

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    Its when your in the drivers seat, Do you understand the method I told you on how to bleed them?

    JD
    88 Gmc Jimmy
     
  5. 84k5

    84k5 1/2 ton status

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    I think so, you said the same thing as the haynes manual.

    Brian
    84k5, 4"Skyjacker lift,33x12.5 Goodyear MT/R, 15x10 Bajas
     
  6. MudRebel350

    MudRebel350 1/2 ton status

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    Its pretty easy, the other methods involve buying vacuum pumps, pressure pots, etc. This is the easiest cheapest way. P.S. brake fluid is hard to get out of the driveway, I've been trying for 2 days now. GoJo, Comet and dawn dishsoap doesnt work, if its scrubbed with the broom.

    JD
    88 Gmc Jimmy
     
  7. 84k5

    84k5 1/2 ton status

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    I'm going to do this on the street, incase I spill a little.

    Brian
    84k5, 4"Skyjacker lift,33x12.5 Goodyear MT/R, 15x10 Bajas
     
  8. jcg

    jcg 1/2 ton status

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    Don't get it on your paint either, it will eat through it in a very short time (half a day). At least it did on our race car, ate completely through the powdercoat in 3 hours! Make sure you wipe it off right away. There's not much to installing the new brake lines either. I put mine in yesterday along with a complete brake rebuild.

    Joe
    Rochester Institute of Technology Team Mini-Baja
    88 Jimmy
     
  9. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

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    In addition to what has been mentioned above, a clear botle filled with just enough brakefluid to sink the tube into will steady it upp for you. Makes it easyer to watch for bubles when you got it down on the ground. Also no spills!

    http://www.espen88k5.coloradok5.com
     
  10. Topher

    Topher Registered Member

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    If you're not messing with the factory lines and just installing the new extended lines then it's a piece of cake. Only tip I have is to disconnect the bottom one at the caliper first and let the fluid drain out; then do the top.

    The other guys are right about not letting the fluid get on your paint or driveway...but above all don't get a lot of it on you skin cuz it'll burn! And don't use a cheap disposable plasic cup to catch the fluid either as it'll just dissolve.

    The bleeding method has been covered but I just wanted to remind you (in case you have disc brakes) that you'll need to hold the metering pin on the proportioning valve (I guess the book calls it combination valve) open while you bleed. I just used a little c-clamp on mine.

    P.S. for about $30 the Mityvac brake bleeding kit is very handy. The one I have is part# 6820 and I got it at Napa.

    Chris
     
  11. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    Topher, this little pin you speak of, is this just on certain years, or what? My 87 doesn't have any pins on the proportioning valve.

    [​IMG] Semper Maintenance!
     
  12. Scoobydoo

    Scoobydoo 1/2 ton status

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    Normaly they are in the front of the proportioning valve facing the front of the truck, sometimes under a rubber cab, you pull the cap off to get to it.
    I have never been able to notice any difference, wether you hold it, or not??? I normally just blow it off! if fluid comes out the bleeders what difference can that valve make??? (maybe if there is air in the valve it would make a difference)
     
  13. 84k5

    84k5 1/2 ton status

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    Just making sure, I do this with the engine off, right?

    Brian
    84k5, 4"Skyjacker lift,33x12.5 Goodyear MT/R, 15x10 Bajas
     
  14. Topher

    Topher Registered Member

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    Jarhead - I don't know if only certain model years have the metering pin. But I must assume so since it's part of the combination (proportioning) valve.
    And according to my '80-'87 Chiltons all models with disc brakes have a combination valve...and the metering pin/valve is supposed to prevent the front discs
    from engaging until the rear brakes contact the drums.

    Anyway on my '85 the metering pin is located on the driver side "wall" of the valve, and faces towards the steering box. Like Scoobydoo said it's under
    a rubber cap...kinda reminds me of those primer buttons on lawn equipment. I don't know if it's necessary to remove the cap first but I was able to hold
    down my pin, with cap in place, by carefully using a small c-clamp.

    Scoobydoo - The first time I bled my brakes I ignored the tidbit about the metering pin and was able to bleed the RR drums successfully. But when I got to the LR
    brakes I couldn't get any fluid to flow whatsoever. That's also when we noticed that brake fluid was just squirting out the top of the master cylinder
    whenever the pedal was depressed. Not knowing any better I thought maybe I needed to keep the cover on the master cylinder. So I did that but still no
    joy; the fuild continued to leak out from under the lid and got on "everything". After scratching my head for awhile I remembered what the manual said
    about the metering pin and decided to try it...after another 20 min of searching for the dang thing I finally decided it had to be under the rubber cap that
    I could push down. So I held it down and it seemed to do the trick. I was finally able to bleed all the brakes and the fluid stopped squirting out the master
    cylinder.

    BTW it was also during this first experience that I learned why you shouldn't get brake fluid on paint, the garage floor, inside a cheap plastic cup,
    AND on the skin....ALL at pretty much the same time! LOL!!

    (sorry for the long reply)
    Chris
     
  15. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    Yeah, do it with the engine off.

    [​IMG] Sept 1
     
  16. jarheadk5

    jarheadk5 1/2 ton status

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    Huh, that's weird. My Haynes manual says NOTHING about any pin. And it was the left rear that I bled out too. Had no problems...

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