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Bleeding brakes

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by bambamtama, Jan 7, 2004.

  1. bambamtama

    bambamtama Registered Member

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    after replacing the brake pads and so forth, how do you bleed the brakes? thank you
     
  2. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    You shouldn't need to bleed the brakes after replacing the pads. You will need to if you replaced a caliper, wheel cylinder, brake line/hose, proportioning valve or master cylinder etc. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    So....what exactly did you replace? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  3. bambamtama

    bambamtama Registered Member

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    oh I understand, well I replaced the Brake pads and the Wheel studs on the drum.
     
  4. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    So you did rear brakes? If you just replaced the brake shoes and wheel studs no bleeding is needed. Just make sure the brakes are adjusted using the star-wheel, button it back up and drive it. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  5. rick88blaze

    rick88blaze 1/2 ton status

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    just so you know, you bleed the brakes in this order:

    passenger rear, driver's rear, passenger front, and then driver's front.

    And this is the procedure that I was taught to bleed them:

    have somebody pump the brake pedal about 5 times, or until it builds up some pressure, on the last pump they hold it to the floor, the second person will loosen the bleeder screw for 1-2 seconds, or until no air, or fluid comes out of the line, then tighten the screw down before they let off of the pedal to pump it up again.

    repeat this until no air comes out of the line, then repeat on the remaining tires.

    hope this helps. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    you might not need to now, but at least now you'll know how if you have to later.

    Rick
     
  6. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    Interesting, I was taught start at the brake closest to the master cylinder and work your way out. So it would be drivers side front, pass front, drivers rear, pass rear. Although that is using a vacuum pump to bleed, pressure bleeding may be different.
     
  7. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    ALWAYS, bleed the brake system starting at the wheel with the farthest travel from the m/c, to the wheel with the shortest, if its a left hand drive vehicle with the master on the left side..then its PR, DR, PF, DF...and on chevrolet trucks like most of ours, its a good idea to bleed out the prop valve on the front frame x-member as well..
     
  8. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    The correct way is the wheel farthest from the master and so forth.
    At work I use a Pheniox . at home I have a pump that I attach to the bleeder and push the fluid from the cylinder. Back bleeding.
    Simple physics. air travels up.
    One person, half the time and it always works.
    The only way to bleed hydraulic clutchs as well.
    Well the only way I do it.
    Otherwise you spend forever gettin a solid pedal.
     
  9. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    POWERMAD...can you post a link to that bleeder? ive been wanting to get one, because as you said, following the best principals, air, travels up.. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  10. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    Pheniox injector. been out for awhile.
    a bottle that holds the fluid, and an injection pump.
    Fill the bottle, pump the fluid into the can untill the fluid is free from air and then attach the line to the bleder.
    pump it till fluid starts to enter the master and go to the next cylinder.
    Once it's done cap it off and top off the master. check the pedal and be tickled pink it is high and tight.
    I have a pump for the fluid at home that I got from napa along time ago that works off the same princaple.
    crack the bleeder attach the hose and just pump untill .. well ya see where this is going. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    It's been prolly 10 years since I did the ol pump and bleed deal.
     
  11. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    yeah.. i need to get one of those.. we just pump and hold at work lol..and we have a power bleeder, actually its a flush machine, but i dont like it..
     
  12. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    talk to yer tool rep that stops in. they all carry it.
    they do have a couple of models, sorry I don't have the tool # handy.
    one of em is for the every day joe that does it once in awhile and the other is better . better is more money.
    But in this biz faster work = more $ for the tech.
    I get paid by the hr but I also get an effiency bonus at the end of the month for all my jobs.
    So I get all the spendy gizmos if I have too.
    We do have a few shop tools and I am amazed we have the Phenioex injector.
    But it is such a cool tool to have, it makes the power bleeders obsolete.
     
  13. Confedneck

    Confedneck 3/4 ton status

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    yeah... im working on amassing more tools, currently im an apprentice tech, and the scary thing is, being the youngest in the shop (we are the nations largest ford dealer).. the techs still ask me for help...i dont make enough to buy expensive tools just yet... 8.50/hr doesnt pay for much, one paycheck a month is my truck insurance alone LOL
     
  14. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    What's wrong with good old gravity bleeding? That's how I've done it the last few times and I haven't run into any trouble...... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  15. 88Silverado

    88Silverado 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    What's wrong with good old gravity bleeding? That's how I've done it the last few times and I haven't run into any trouble

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Yep..thats what I do. Crack the bleeder valve, have a beer, watch the fluid slowly flow out, have another beer, tap the caliper or wheel cyl with a rubber mallot to bring the stuck bubbles to the top, have another beer, close the valve and move to the next one, have a beer, repeat steps.

    BTW dont forget to remove the MC cover first (then have a beer) or it will generate a vacuum and not flow.

    Also, if you are going to have someone pump and hold the brake peddle down and crack the valve, take a piece of small hose that will fit over the bleeder valve and put the other end of the hose in a old bottle of some sort. This way when you crack the bleeder, it doesnt squirt all over everything making a mess /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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