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bleeding caddy calipers on tsm rear disks ...help please

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by jberg62, Apr 22, 2002.

  1. jberg62

    jberg62 1/2 ton status

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    I, with the help of a friend recently managed to install the rear disk brake kit from TSM onto my '77 Blazer.
    The install for the most part went pretty smootly until of course the brake bleeding had to take place.
    I swapped sides with the calipers; so that the bleeder screw is pointed down and the e-brake arms are pointed up.
    Before mounting the calipers to the brackets they were gravity bled as much as possible.
    Once the calipers are then bolted to the brackets how then are we supposed to bleed out the remainder of the air from the lines?
    I had a brainstorm this morning and just need to have it confirmed as a good idea from you guys or to find out if there is a better and simpler way to bleed the remaining air from the lines.
    I can just hold the calipers onto the rotors with the bleeder screws in the upright position while bleeding. That way the pads would have something to push against while moving inward as the pedal is being depressed during the bleeding procedure. After all of the air is out of the lines the calipers can then be rotated back around and remounted to the brackets.
    Is there another way that I am missing?
    Please help a novice brake bleeder out.
    This kit from TSM does seem to be quite awesome and would be even better if I (with your help of course) could get it up to its full potential.
    Thank you very much for your help with this.
    Sincerely,
    Jim
    P.S.
    I have called CO (TSM) and spoken directly with Skip he really doesn't answer my questions satisfactorily and the long distance charges as well as my frustration is builing up rapidly!
     
  2. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    You'll never get those calipers to bleed upside down, unless you have a power bleeder, and even then its doubtfull. I usually gravity bleed mine; take the cap off the master, pull the screw out, and gently tap on the calipers to dislodge the air bubbles. There's lots of stuff inside those calipers for air to cling to.

    Pete
     
  3. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>I took my calipers off to bleed them
     
  4. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    your way would work fine, 'holding on rotor with bleeder up'
    though you could jam anything in there to hold piston in.
    Ebrake just worked better upside down?
     
  5. Chris Demartini

    Chris Demartini 1/2 ton status

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    <font color=blue>I think you're suposed to flip the caliper so the cable doesn't have to go under the housing. I never got cables made, so I don't know if thats true or not, but thats what I heard anyway
     
  6. 1990K5

    1990K5 1/2 ton status

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    you hit the nail on the head with your idea, thats exactly how you do it, hopefully the flaxible portion of you line is long enough to rotate far enough that the bleeder nipples are straight up. ( hehe--nipples)
     
  7. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    If you're gonna take them off and rotate them to bleed them, I would either use put them on the rotor, or find something the same thickness, since you can't just push the pistons back in like a regular caliper. (You can either try turning them in, or take the lever off, and push them in).

    Pete
     
  8. jberg62

    jberg62 1/2 ton status

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    1990K5 and MJ have confirmed my suspicions and given me the thumbs up...We have a go Houston!
    Thanks guys for your input and help with this. As MJ has stated too, if the braided line is not long enough to reach the rotor; most anything can be place between the pads to hold the piston in the open position while the remainder of the bleeding is being done.
    Thanks again guys!
    Now for some measurements on the e-brake cable and I'll be able to complete the job successfully.
     
  9. jberg62

    jberg62 1/2 ton status

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    There sure is a bunch of air inside those calipers.
    I just don't think that gravity bleeding alone will get out all of the air withi the system. I'm gonna have a good friend hold the caliper onto the rotor and open the bleeder screw while I pump and hold the brake pedal to completely remove all air from the system...hopefully.
    Thanks for the help everyone!
     
  10. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    You'll never get a firm pedal with the Caddy clipers unless you first adjust the e-brake so that the pads are snug against the rotor. Then you can start bleeding. Otherwise you'll go through quarts of brake fluid and still have a soft pedal. /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif Just a hint from someone that's been there.... /forums/images/icons/blush.gif
     
  11. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    What Harry says is true.

    Pete
     

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