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blocks...poll

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by broncoman6524, Aug 6, 2006.

?

blocks front and rear?

  1. Yup

    1 vote(s)
    1.6%
  2. no

    24 vote(s)
    39.3%
  3. front no

    13 vote(s)
    21.3%
  4. only rear

    23 vote(s)
    37.7%
  1. broncoman6524

    broncoman6524 1/2 ton status

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    would running a 1inch or 2 inch block in the rear be bad? or front and rear, i know that too much will cause axle wrap and other stuff. but since these trucks came from the factory with some in the rear, would it realy be that big of a deal?

    Im not realy worried too much about axle wrap as ive got a stock 350/th400 (robs power:( ) and 3.08 gears runnin 33s. I hate my AALs and want to take them off but cant afford a real lift kit either just trying to figure out options. this truck only sees mud.
     
  2. stockk5

    stockk5 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    1" no problem.. 2" no problem.. in the back.. 1" zero rate block thats part of the spring pack in the front..thats ok too.. no random blocks not attached though. def. not 2" in the front.
     
  3. eclipse

    eclipse 1/2 ton status

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    with 3.08 gears and 33s, you don't really have to worry about axle wrap.
     
  4. broncoman6524

    broncoman6524 1/2 ton status

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    thats where my thoughts were thats why if figured either shackles or blocks would be fine in the front. but i eventually want to runn 4.10s or 4.56s. but by that point i hope to have 4" springs for it.

    these zerorates you speak of...they arent made anymore right i checked google and couldnt find them
     
  5. ryoken

    ryoken Puppy Fabricator Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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  6. divorced

    divorced 3/4 ton status

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    I can't recall ever seeing any old Chevys with a factory block in the rear.
     
  7. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    my 771ton with 37k origanal miles came from factory with 3" in the rear. thay had the ear molded in like fords for the bump stop to hit. from all the stuff on the truck it looks like my truck was a mid line change over from 2x4 to 4x4 at the plant. the reason thay did the blocks was 2x4 frt hangers for the rear springs. had to make it up some how. also i have a 2 peice rear shaft. first section about 14-16 " long then next about 3 ft or so. carrier bearing was bolted to bracket rivited to rear cab mount crossmember.

    only one i have seen like that tho.
     
  8. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    No nekkid option in the poll. What IS this world coming to? :confused: :confused:
     
  9. pvfjr

    pvfjr 1/2 ton status

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    Do you realize that 3/4 of your options in the poll say no to front blocks? I wasn't sure in which way I wanted to reject it. :crazy:
     
  10. broncoman6524

    broncoman6524 1/2 ton status

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    ya i was kinda tired lol i completely forgot about hte nekked option. i broke the tradition...:doah:
     
  11. Smokin'Joe

    Smokin'Joe Registered Member

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    A freind of mine drives a '79 Ford F250 to plow snow. He needed to raise his nose 2" to level the truck, and for the extra wieght. After I told him why he shouldn't use blocks, he had extra leaves added. Price differeence was minimal.
     
  12. quicker

    quicker 1/2 ton status

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    Just don’t do it, simple and right, do not do blocks.

    Rear in small amounts as a stop gap but really anything serious front or rear is a joke. If you can’t afford a real lift then save your money and do it right.
     
  13. Mudgod

    Mudgod Registered Member

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    I'm sorry, but I don't see any difference here. If a 1" block is going to add axle wrap to the axle it will not matter if it is a zero-rate or lift block.

    Almost every company out there sells lift blocks for the rear axle.
    1. The use lift blocks so that the customer can keep his factory ride.
    2. Lift blocks are cheaper than lift springs.
    3. Lift springs can be a lot rougher to ride on. (almost the same as 1, but different!)
    Having said all that, if you run lift blocks you should also run some type of ain't-wrap bar on your rig also.
    Little secret? When someone goes with bigger tire, and lower gears they also start getting more axle wrap, but no one saids don't do that! People just tell them how to fix it. Same with lift blocks, everyone saids not to use them. They will make your axle wrap worse, this is true, but you can fix it too.

    Now that I have said all that I don't want someone going out and buying (or should I say "making") 6"-12" lift blocks. That is just asking for problems and trail repairs. I'm talking maybe 4" and under.
     
  14. roadnotca

    roadnotca 3/4 ton status

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    :bow: Amazing:D
     
  15. quicker

    quicker 1/2 ton status

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    Yes blocks are an option and yes a cheaper option. But it is important to separate the wrong way to lift and the right way. Blocks are the wrong way if given the choice to lift with appropriate springs. A 1 inch lift is a waste of time and money. People say 1 inch but it is not long before they are at 4 inches and adding a 3 inch body lift. Then on to the trail riding a Lego truck.



    Sorry but you have to take human nature into the mix. Do it right or don’t do it at all.

    It is true you can get away with mild block usage but it is an alternative to make a slightly cheaper kit. Works great to sell lift kits. The problem is the extra cost to compensate for blocks offsets the cheaper lift so you might as well do it right....unless it’s a "show only" truck.

    That’s my opinion ...and I am sure you will here it quite alot on serious trails.

    Quick
     
  16. u2slow

    u2slow 1/2 ton status

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    I'll vouch for those on a similar-year crewcab.

    For 72-older GM trucks, blocks are very common. You'd be hard-pressed to find a 4wd that didn't have them.

    1st-gen Dodge CTD went wild with the blocks.... 5.5" iirc.

    IMO a short lift spacer that thru-bolts to the spring pack is fine on a front end.
     

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