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blower motor.....HELP!!!!!!!!

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 78k5man, Mar 13, 2003.

  1. 78k5man

    78k5man Newbie

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    alright, here it is....the heater blower motor only works when i jump the blower wire from the battery directly. and then when i turn the truck off, the motor stays on. so i replaced the relay. and checked the wires going to the blower motor and it didnt fix the problem. i think it may be something to do with the actual heater control switches but i dont know how to check. what else is in the heater electrical system. i just need a list of things to check. thank you...
     
  2. bigmack

    bigmack 1/2 ton status

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    I had a problem once where my blower motor would only work if it was on high. There is a piece that is bolted to the heater box that the electrical connection plugs onto, it may be called the resistor ?? Anyway, I had to replace that to fix the problem I was having. I think it has 2 bolts that hold it on, and it sticks down into the heater box probably about 4-5 inches and has some corkscrew looking things on it. It had 4 of these and 3 of them were broken, that is why it only worked when the switch was on high for the fan. Just something you might want to check out.
     
  3. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    What bigmack is talking about is the resistor pack. I doubt that's bad if the motor's not running on high either (the pack doesn't do anything on high).

    I was messing with the relay on mine the other day. I will measure what all the input voltages are supposed to be tonite cause I can't remember offhand. I will post tomorrow if someone hasn't answered your question.
     
  4. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    On later setups (and likely yours) there is a single 12V feed wire TO the switch that controls the fan on the dash. I'm guessing you aren't seeing 12V at the resistor plug in the engine bay?
     
  5. tori89k5

    tori89k5 1/2 ton status

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    A new switch is cheap. You can reach up from under the dash and unplug the old one, bring the connector down to the bottom of the dash and plug in your new one and test it that way. I just had to replace mine, and after checking for power everywhere else narrowed it down to the switch. The switch was only like 10 bucks or less and tried it this way before taking the dash apart.
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Or, you could make sure the switch feed wire is supplying 12 volts, before spending money on a part that might not be the problem /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
     

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