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Body lift and mechanical clutch questions

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 84_Chevy_K10, Jul 24, 2002.

  1. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Did you have to lengthen your linkage with a mechanical clutch and a 3" body? I have mine adjusted all the way and it doesn't seem to release. I don't have driveshafts on the truck but I'm afraid to hook one up and the clutch not release. With no driveshaft installed, if I step on the clutch, the transfer case output should still stop, correct? It doesn't seem that the clutch is releasing at all.

    Should I extend the rod that goes from the pedal to the "Z" bar by 3"? Or should I make the part that goes from the "Z" bar to the clutch fork longer?

    Like I said, its adjusted all the way out and it seems that it's not releasing.
     
  2. backyardbuilt

    backyardbuilt 1/2 ton status

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    You have to add 3"s to the clutch rod a piece should have come with the kit but it is usually to skinny I would just buy a small piece of rod at the hardware store and weld it in try to match the thickness of your rod as close as possible don't want any weak links some guys just make a new longer clutch rod to no welding.
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Yeah I've used that rod on automatic trannies to make the linkage longer--I wasn't aware that the clutch linkage wouldn't adjust out. That sucks, now I've got to get my buddy to do some more welding for me. /forums/images/icons/frown.gif
     
  4. backyardbuilt

    backyardbuilt 1/2 ton status

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    Ya it sucks I'm so tired of the slop in my old stuff I'm considering the hydro swap I can get all the parts at a local you wrench it for next to nothing just alot of work switching it all out!
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I would love the hydro stuff but my junkyards don't have new stuff.

    Do you see any problem making the rod that goes between the Z bar and clutch fork 3" longer? Me and my friend are going to try it.
     
  6. backyardbuilt

    backyardbuilt 1/2 ton status

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    Not sure if that would be bad or not I never messed with it much other than for adjustment purposes the whole setup is junk thats why I want hydro to get rid of it all. If I can get ahold of 2 sets of hydro parts I will send them to you for cost plus shipping I'm hoping to go to the yard this weekend so I'll let ya know if your interested!
     
  7. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Its gonna hit the exhaust if I make that part 3" longer, but maybe it doesn't need to be 3" longer...I'm going out to try it in a minute.

    As for the hydro, YES I'm interested! I'm damn near broke, but if you've got the stuff cheap I'll take it in a heartbeat!
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Well it appears it won't release. I didn't get the clutch rod lengthened, but I did lengthen the adjusting rod as much as I could and pushed the clutch all the way to the floor and the transfer case output still spins when the engine is running and it's in gear with the clutch in.

    I'm going to put the front driveshaft on and see if it makes a difference, but it appears that the clutch will not release.

    I don't see how it matters where you lengthen the linkage. There's only maybe 1" of free play and it seems that it still won't release.

    Grrrr...mechanical clutch isn't looking so good now after all (pain in the ass). /forums/images/icons/confused.gif /forums/images/icons/mad.gif
     
  9. madmike

    madmike 1/2 ton status

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    I don't think there is any way around it-to make you clutch function properly, you're gonna have to lengthen the rod from the pedal to the zbar by 3". When I put the 3" body lift on my truck, I did do that, and I don't have any clutch free play or adjustment problems. It works just the way its supposed too. There is something else, you stated that when you depress the clutch, the transfer case output should stop, and you have not intalled the driveshaft yet. I think that is correct, but I have noticed something about gear driven things like trannies and transfer cases with thick gear oil in them. For instance, I was looking at a SM465 sitting on the ground, just the tranny, and I was shifting it thru the gears. When I tried to find neutral, I wasn't sure I had it. So I turned the input shaft by hand, and watched the output. The output still turned. But, when I continued turning the input, and held the output from turning, I could tell the tranny really was in neutral. My point is, sometimes the close tolerance of the gears, bearings, and synchros, plus the thick gear oil, will cause things to seem to drag along and turn when there is no load on them. My second point is, if you put that driveshaft on, it might put enough of a load on things to make it seem ok. Even when I have my front hubs unlocked and the transfer case in 2hi, my front driveshaft still turns occasionally and slowly, because of internal friction and drag by gear oil. Still gonna have to lengthen the clutch rod though...
     
  10. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    Well, it seems to be working now. I got my truck to move!! I'm so happy. It goes into reverse, too! I'm going to put the front clip on tonight so the engine has a cooling system and bleed the brakes and it might be ready for a quick drive down the street (with no rear driveshaft, I might add). /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     

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