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Body lift and susp lift-how dangerous

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 8_YOUR_H2, Apr 9, 2000.

  1. 8_YOUR_H2

    8_YOUR_H2 1/2 ton status

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    I just got my 3" trail master body lift in and it warns that if you combine a body lift and a susp lift your truck could become a crazed beast with a mind of its own and crash into the nearest bridge abutment. Not in those words exactly. I have seen this done MANY times..alot of your rigs have this same getup, can you give any details on this? I want minimum susp lift as to not messup the alignment of the driveline and still fit 35's. I dont Do any EXTREME offroading so major flex is not big concern. Could A person get away with 35's and a 3" body lift? maby with some fender trimming??
     
  2. Toad

    Toad 1/2 ton status

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    I couldn't tell from your post if you had a suspension lift now or not. If not I would not go with a body lift to run 35's. I would go with a suspension lift. I believe to run 35's you just need a 4" lift. You probably can't do any major 4wheeling with 35's but you'll get the looks and you shouldn't have to change anything exept for your steering arm and brake lines. A lift with rear blocks will run about $250+ shocks. Besides, body lifts can break where the body mounts to the frame.

    One thing to think about is the gears in your truck. If the are 3.73 and under don't run anything over 33" tires or your rig will feel gutless with the stock engine.
     
  3. '73 K5

    '73 K5 1/2 ton status

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    Those companies just have to say that for legal reasons. Its completely up to the driver how safe you'll be. I've konwn guys that could roll a Viper at 10 mph. I used to have a Jeep with 5 inch suspension and 3 inch body lift. Combine that with 36's and about 400 horses and a short wheelbase...oh yea. It was a handful, but I never rolled it and did plenty of stupid stuff.
    I'd stay away from a body lift if you could. They can cause some headaches and they look like crap(bumpers being too low).

    '73 K5
    Chevy good...Ford bad
     
  4. Thumper

    Thumper 1/2 ton status

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    I have had a 4" susp lift and 3" body lift on my truck for 5 yrs now with 35s. Ive never had a problem and never regretted it. 73K5 is bang on tho, its all how safe you want to be. You just have to realize that the center of gravity will be higher and drive accordingly. On your question, I would consider going to a 4" susp lift before the body lift. Only for the reason that the ride quality is so much better with a lift kit than stock. I installed my body lift first, and with the larger tires (33s) it made the truck a handful on the trails. The addition of even just the lift springs on the front and blocks in the back really made it easier to control. As far as Im concerned a body lift is a great cheap way to get a bit more lift for tires, and as for the gaps between the bumpers, I just cut out a piece of stainless steel sheet and covered in the gap in the back. The front is hardly noticeable with the winch bumper on there, and Ive never had anyone tell me the truck looks bad because of the body lift.

    Mike


    <font color=blue>Thumper
    85 Fullsize Jimmy
    [​IMG]
    <font color=red>Lets Go Wheelin! </font color=red>
     
  5. CBLAZER81

    CBLAZER81 1/2 ton status

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    Backspacing on your rims and tire width will make a big difference too.When I got my Blazer it had 36x12.5 Swamper radials on narrow rims.They never hit anything and went up into the fender well fine when I twisted it up.I went to 35x15.5 SXs,12" rims and 3" backspacing,and the were rubbing when i turned around in the parking lot at the tire shop.I'm just trying to point out some of the variables when you're changing tires/wheels.
    By the way,I added a 3" body lift and don't have any probs now.

    <font color=green>Yes,I have driven over a F*&d lately!</font color=green>[​IMG]
     

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