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Body lift install questions????

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BamBamblazer, Jan 7, 2003.

  1. BamBamblazer

    BamBamblazer 1/2 ton status

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    I am considering puting a body lift on my blazerand was wondering what problems you guys have ran into puting yours on. I know that rusted or stuck bolts are a major issue but what other probs are common? I haven't decided if i am gunna go 2" or 3" but i would reather do 3". Any input would be great.

    /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
     
  2. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    The bolts were hell. I had to grind the heads off the ones in the back and cut one hole in the floor. I couldnt get away without the fanshroud, so I cut it in the middle and extended it 3" and block up the opening in the bottom from with a peice of tin.
     
  3. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    I have run both a 1" and a 3" BL at one time or another. Biggest thing to be careful of is there are several bolts in the middle of the cab area that have caged nuts. These nuts are fully enclosed and you can't get to them without drilling a hole in the floor. Be VERY CAREFUL not to spin those nuts from their cage. Use only hand tools on these to help prevent spinning. We used hand tools on mine and still spun one. That was a pain.

    Second, be sure to loosen your tranny shift linkage before installing the lift. On the 3" BLs (don't know about the 2" ones), you get a small piece of steel to use to extend your linkage. Get this welded in as an extension before you even start the lift install. You can run your rig without a BL with one of these extensions no problem.

    If you have a hitch platform, the very rear bolts can be a pain. They don't leave much room inside the frame rails to get to them and they might interfere with some of the existing bolts. Patience and perseverance can overcome this obstacle.

    Finally, I highly recommend replacing your body mounts while installing a body lift. You have to remove the body mounts to install the lift anyway, and you will probably find them very worn. Have these ready to go when you do the body lift and you will prevent yourself from having to do it again later.

    Hope this helps. Any other questions, let me know.
     
  4. txbluethunder

    txbluethunder 1/2 ton status

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    like said before...you'll need to have the shift linkage welded on everything except for the 1" lift. a week before you plan on lifting it go around to all the body bolts and drench them in rustoff or pb blaster or s'ok or a similar very strong liquid wrench type fluid. it will make removing them later much easier.
     
  5. BigBurban350

    BigBurban350 1/2 ton status

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    I did a body lift on my burban a couple summers ago in my back yard. I wasn't planning a body lift, but the reason I did it was because I was replacing the body mounts. I had maybe 4 mounts holding the body down, it was bad...really bad. Well, out of the 12 or so bolts only 1 unscrewed. The rest I pain stakenly cut off with an air grinder, that was the most difficult part. If you have access torches, the job would go by much faster. Another timely problem I ran into was fabrication of the rusted out mounts of the body(the parts that the weight of the body rests on the mounts). The mounts under the driver and passenger were a b*tch, I had to cut open the bodys frame rail to get to the nuts, and also the ones behind those I had to use a sawsall to cut open the floor to get the tops of the bolts. I had it towed to the shop I worked at and welding on some replacment body. After all that crappy battle with the rust it gets much easyer, just putting bolts through holes and tightening the nuts.

    Now that it is done, I feel it was well worth the effort to get that extra 3" of clearance, and the piece of mind that when I get into an accident the body wont fly off and become my coffin. /forums/images/graemlins/usaflag.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
     
  6. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I haven't done a body lift - nor do I plan on one anytime in the near future...but I have a question. When you cut off the body bolts....what did that gain you? Don't you just have the stud of a cut off bolt hanging from the body - with the welded-in nut still stuck to the end of it? Or, are they actual bolts that go all the way through that you can get to from the top and bottom? Sorry if that sounds like a dumb question...but I'm not about to go lay in the snow (well, water...melted snow) and take a look at my truck. Thanks.
     
  7. or2play

    or2play 1/2 ton status

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    If you do get poly mounts you may need to get some different lenght bolts to replace some that come in your kit. This is cause poly mounts are different thickness that the factory rubber ones. Other that that, fan shroud and shift linkage. And for sure spray them bolts down, ther are a real pain in the a$$.
     
  8. nofeartruckin00

    nofeartruckin00 1/2 ton status

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    Not sure on positions for suburbans, but the core supports, and rear positions are just bolts that go thru body and mount. Cut off the bolt and pull the rest out (sounds easy, in reality isn't even close). The rest use cage nuts inside the body. I stipped 1 head, and snapped off 2. Can't pull it through because they are in the cage nuts, so you are forced to weld on a nut, or TRY cranking it out with vice grips. In most cases, you have no choice. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  9. 89GMCSuburban

    89GMCSuburban 1/2 ton status

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    Every single one of mine came out with no problems with a 1/2" impact. I used a 1/2 inch drive Craftsman Electric impact. The impact, in my personal experience, got them out when hand tools wouldn't. In my Burban, two bolts in the back that were under the carpet had to be ground a little because they were welded to the floor. If you have some mounts that have no bolts through them, you can drill a hole and put a new bolt through..or, in my case, pop out the rubber mount, drill a hole halfay down the puck, put a bolt through it and hold the puck and mount together with a nut and washer. I sprayed a little Silicone on the mount and it slipped right back into it's bracket. If you have Cruise Control with TBI and put on a 3" body lift, the bracket that holds the vacuum servo for the Cruise MAY make contact with the firewall...it won't hurt anything, it just may sound annoying.
    Anyways, mine was done by myself in less than a day...they aren't that difficult if everything comes out.
    P.S. I think the lock-tite they give you in the kit is the stuff that has to be loosened by heat. (permanent lock-tite) I don't know if it's a better idea, but you may want to just use normal Blue lock-tite in case you need to replace anything later.
    Sorry for the novel... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
     

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