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body lift query

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by joe84bb, Sep 13, 2000.

  1. joe84bb

    joe84bb Registered Member

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    I haven't spent a lot of time looking, but how do you get to the bolt heads to install a body lift? I've already torn out all of my carpet in hopes of getting perma-teched before too long. Will I need to do my body lift before the liner, or can you get to everything from under the truck?


    I know just enough to know that I'll never know enough.
     
  2. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Most of the bolts from the cab back are carriage type bolts.Ya now like a bumper bolt,round on the top with a square under the dome.The bolts on my 72 have to be pulled from the inside of the rig.So yes you will need to do the body lift before you line the inside of your rig.
    Good luck

    Rock ON![​IMG] 72 K5 [​IMG] Led Zeppelin
    http://burt4x4.coloradok5.com
     
  3. BUDDY

    BUDDY 1/2 ton status

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    and if I were you I'd do the bodylift, take it to the perma-tech shop and have them take out the body mount bolts so if you decide sometime to go with a taller, shorter no no bodylift, you'll be able to do it without tearing up your liner. Where are you located at? I used towork for a Perma-tech dealer in Lubbock, Tx. Great people all around.

    HTH
    buddy

    I've got my dream truck and it's a 72 K-5 that is getting there!!
     
  4. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    Hey Buddy, how do you (they) get around using the body mount bolts?
     
  5. joe84bb

    joe84bb Registered Member

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    my problem is-I can't get to the bolt right behind the driver's front seat.

    I know just enough to know that I'll never know enough.
     
  6. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

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    My 88 should be like yours. There are 10 bolts, (5 pairs). First pair you'l see under the radiator, behind your front bumper, thats bolt's with nuts. second and third the bolt goes upp into the crossmember under your pedals and behind your seat, they have the nut welded to the inside of the crossmember(no nut's to worry about). The last 2 pairs stick through the floor in the cargo area, nuts underneath..the pair at the tailgate caused the most greef. The nut is accesed through a dark hole in the frame, and the bolt goes trough a "lip" from the gas-tank. All this had rusted into a solid lump of fun...for 4 hours. Then it got personal!!!


    http://www.espen88k5.coloradok5.com
     
  7. joe84bb

    joe84bb Registered Member

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    the second and third are what scares me. I was loosening the third set you talk about- with the welded nut- and guess what the weld must have broken, cuz' that baby just spins now. Any ideas? This has been personal for a while now. I broke this one free a while back..now it's loose and it squeaks & rattles so much I just get pissed everytime I hit some bumps.

    I know just enough to know that I'll never know enough.
     
  8. Espen88k5

    Espen88k5 1/2 ton status

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    This is a good excuse to buy some power tools!!!

    Get a grinder and just cut a large flang next to the bolt's enter-hole. You will have to loosen all your body-mounts and jack upp the body again dough.. That bites!! but when dealing with rusted bolts, you will soon spend more time poking with it, than you will if you do it right the first time.

    So... big powertools. Then when you have the cut in the crossmember, get a light!! Cant see anything in the dark!! Then see if you cant break it loose. Buy a stick-welder. They are great for rough work like this, and cheap. Make a insertion that fits with a new nut, re-weld it back upp.(if you cant just hold the nut and get the old bolt out, then you could just weld the old nut back too, your choice!) Use some tectyl to seal the bear metal. Use the grinder to smooth up your welding. drop everything back in place.
    It sounds like 14 days of work but it really isn't.
    Personal experience...

    I started welding with a stick-welder( I think thats what they are called) only this summer. Never welded before, always admired those who could...... Now I weld with the best of them. Took some practice, but you'l be surprised how many things around the garage that's screaming for a good welding[​IMG] .Lots of things to practice on.!!

    Good luck.


    http://www.espen88k5.coloradok5.com
     
  9. BUDDY

    BUDDY 1/2 ton status

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    I'm not for sure what you mean. You can't get around the bodymount bolts very elegantly or cleanly,unless you take them out before you spray it. I just finished with my body-lift yesterday and when I spray it, I'll take out the mounting bolts, spray it, let it cure while I'm trimming all of the masking, and then I'll put the bolts back in it. If you don't do this, it will be nearly impossible to remove those bolts later on. That Perma-tech stuff is awesome and I can't imagine trying to remove it from the bed after it's in there. Although I can't imagine why you'd want to after it's done either.

    sorry it took so long to reply, I haven't checked this string in a couple days.

    HTH

    Buddy

    I've got my dream truck and it's a 72 K-5 that is getting there!!
     
  10. BUDDY

    BUDDY 1/2 ton status

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    take out the front seat. You'll have to at the spray-in shop anyways.

    Buddy


    I've got my dream truck and it's a 72 K-5 that is getting there!!
     
  11. Panther

    Panther 1/2 ton status

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    Actually you answered my question. I didn't know you meant to drill/get through the Perma-tech and put the bolt back in. I was wondering how you were gonna get away with no mounting bolts.
     

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