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Body lifts

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by JohnSPledg, Dec 30, 2002.

  1. JohnSPledg

    JohnSPledg 1/2 ton status

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    Who makes a 1" body lift for first gen's? I happened upon some polyurethane body mounts for $56.00 at the local 4x4 shop, and I had been planning on adding a 1" body lift a little further down the road, but I figure if I am going to do it it is better to go ahead and install both at the same time.
     
  2. ntaj*ep

    ntaj*ep 1/2 ton status

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    I'm going to do the same thing! That price for the mounts is sweet! Are they poly. mounts? Do they have any more? I will buy some if they have or can get more, who makes them?
    For the body lift check here. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
    http://www.offroaddesign.com/
     
  3. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    ORD makes an aluminum 1" kit...
    All the 2" and 3" kits I've seen are plastic pucks...

    I just had a 2" aluminum set made for me for the cost of materials (about $35)....I can't wait to put 'em in!
     
  4. JohnSPledg

    JohnSPledg 1/2 ton status

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    They only had the one set. In Baton Rouge, we have inventory taxes due on all merchandise in stock on January 1st. Since there are only 6 known 1st gen blazers within an hours drive, no one stocks 1st gen specific parts. They are "ProThane" by DEE Engineering. They were marked down from 103.20.
     
  5. bdkmiller

    bdkmiller Registered Member

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    Hey Greg,

    What are the benefits of aluminum over poly?
    It would seem to me that aluminum would not make for a comfortable ride.
    Since I need to replace my body mounts I'll be considering all options.
    Thanks,
    Brian in NH
     
  6. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Brian,

    The aluminum doesn't replace the poly mount. Think of it more as replacing one of the steel washers in the kit with a REALLY thick washer!!!

    It will be more obvious when you see it, but it's kind of like a sandwich with some soft layers (the rubber or poly bushnigs) and then the solid spacer in the middle to get the lift you want.

    ....Hey, if you wait long enough you can just check mine out in person when we're neighbors!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  7. bdkmiller

    bdkmiller Registered Member

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    Ok Greg that makes sense. I suppose the amuminum would be a bit stronger?
    I'll certainly check out your aet up when you come back east. It's going to be a while before I have the $$ to have the work done.

    Brian
     
  8. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    Greg,

    You doing all the pucks the same diameter?
    What size hole are you boring through the center?
     
  9. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Les,

    The two under the front radiator support were slightly smaller than the other 8. I can't recall the exact dimensions.

    The bolts in my truck were replaced at some point, and are currently a 1/2" diameter bolt...the holes are machined a few thousandths larger than 1/2" to allow to bolts to get through...but not so much that they would be sloppy.

    I'd have to get my calipers out and take some measurements to give you more specifics... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     
  10. LKJR

    LKJR 1/2 ton status

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    I've been wanting to do this for some time now, just a case of finding material cheap, had a lineup on a second gen Body lift for $50 but we never went thru with it. But I'd like the assurance of a solid piece under there.... if you get a chance could you get a guesstimate on the radiator diamiters? I think the other's are like 2.5 - 3" if I remember right
     
  11. SHINTON

    SHINTON 1/2 ton status

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    Just wanted to point out that Performance Accessories builds a 2 and 3 inch body lift which can be purchased on Summit Racing website for $70ish. I just bought my 3"er from them and went outside to measure them for you.

    All but two of them are 3" in diameter. The other 2 are 2" in diameter which I assume are the ones for the radiator.

    The poly 'puck's they provide can take up to 50,000psi which I think is plenty!

    One other thought, I would assume u could buy thier 2" kit and cut the poly puck in half to get your 1"???

    Sam Hinton
     
  12. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Les,

    The main 8 pucks I had made are 3" diameter, the radiator supports are 2.5". I know that the normal kits make the radiator support smaller (like 2"), but there certainly seems to be room for the larger puck since the washers there are 2.5"

    Sam,

    I don't think that anyone would argue that in a straight "up and down" force, the plastic bushings won't do the job. However, the twisting forces (especially on 3" body lifts) can be monstrous, and I think that's what makes people nervous. I've also heard of at least a couple of members who broke plastic pucks on their trucks.....so better safe than sorry for me!!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    Especially since I got the aluminum for less $$ than plastic. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  13. SHINTON

    SHINTON 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah I have heard both good and bad with the body lifts. I went ahead with the 3"er mostly because I don't really try to flex up my Jimmy a whole lot and I am planning on actually stiffining the body, etc.

    My goal is to pull the doors off this summer and from what I have read you can do it, but it really helps if you have supported the body with a rollcage, multiple tie in points, etc. I really don't want the old trucking twisting itself into pieces etc. If nothing else I figure I can give real life feedback for the board!

    I will post pics / writeup the install for the board just so everyone has it!

    Sam Hinton
     
  14. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Sam,

    Sounds like you are considering the whole picture as far as getting more torisional stiffness as a part of the body lift conversion. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif to you....

    Keep in mind there are many people who do a 3" successfully, Burt4x4 comes to mind and he wheels the wee out of his!!! So it's possible...3" will wreak havoc with linkages and steering so you'll need to spend some extra time with those items.

    FYI -> The transfer case lever might confuse you for a while unless you understand that the hole for the shifter needs to get a lot longer with a body lift. I wasn't able to get into 4LO with the stock shift boot screwed down in the stock position.

    Imagine a side view of the center tunnel and shift lever. The shifter in 2HI is all the way to one side and in 4LO is at the other extreme position.....imagine that range of motion forms a "V"....the stock hole in the floor accomodates that range of motion of the shifter. Once you raise the body, the access hole will be 3" higher on the shift lever....so to get the full range of motion, you may need to clearance the hole on both sides. It's kind of hard to describe, but easy to draw on paper.... if this still doesn't make sense I can try explaining again...
     
  15. aksidentproan

    aksidentproan 1/2 ton status

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    When I did my 2 inch body lift my truck wouldn't go into 4hi or 4lo because 4lo is all the way foreward and 4hi is all the the back. I made the hole bigger in the front and back of the hole but then you can't use the factory shift boot so for now I just have the boot around the stick but its not screwed to the floor.

    Evan
     
  16. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    I heated up my stick with a torch and bent it back. I was able to get away without cutting up the floor.
     
  17. SHINTON

    SHINTON 1/2 ton status

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    Hmm... I had heard about the 4Lo issue with the body lifts and I am thinking this is an excellent opportunity for TWIN STICK!!! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

    I orig was gonna cut out my rocker boxes and replace with 2x2 tubing but my boxes are still providing some stiffness so I am just gonna ADD the 2x2 as I can under the body.

    Dad and I were talking about this the other day, the plan is to place a JACK under the rear of the door essentially and raise it slightly untill the doors realign. (Right now you can see that with the top off the body has sagged some based on the alignment around the doors.)

    Then we will cut and weld a new front hoop to the existing back hoop (converting my existing 4 pt cage to 6pt) Since I am putting on all new POLY body mounts, the 3" body lift etc we are hoping this will allow me to run doorless without further sagging/damage.

    Sam
     

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