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Body Mount Bushing Replacement

Discussion in '1969-1972 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by JimmyUp, Dec 24, 2003.

  1. JimmyUp

    JimmyUp Registered Member

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    Location:
    Seattle--Washington
    Happy holidays,

    I was about to order a soft top for my 72 GMC Jimmy and then several people asked if I had replaced my body mount bushings. My answer was no. These same folks suggested that I replace the bushings prior to installing the soft top to eliminate any possible body sag that could result in a less than optimal install of the soft top. Apparently, body sag anywhere can cuase the top to not seal correctly and leave gaps. Anybody else have an opinoin on this?

    Know for for real question. How many body mounts bushings exist on our 1st gen rigs? How often when removing the nuts do you end up having to cut the bolts?

    If bolts do need to be removed/replaced how do you get on top of the bolt to do this (i.e. do you have to cut into the tub, reach it from the top side of the tub or...)? I did this on my CJ-7 and had to cut into the tub to remove the carriage bolts. I can't do this on my 72 becuase the tub is Line-X'ed.

    Any thoughts suggestions are appreciated. Thank you,
    Scott
     
  2. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Duno about the soft top and body bussing theroy? It would have to really sag from windshild to tail gate alot for that problem to happen. I am guessing just never heard of that.
    As for the mounts there are 12 6 on each side. The carriage bolts are on the floor and will need to come up from the inside. No cutting needed. When I did mine I replaced all the bolts. Just went down to orchard supply with the old bolts and matched them up. Some I had to guess with as I had to cut the nut off.
    I used poly mounts from Energy Suspension. The black ones(not red) have been impregnegted with poly graphite to prevent squeeking. The thing about poly is you donot want to over tighten them or squeeze them cuz they become very hard and too ridged. I used nylon lock nuts so I didn't need to 'make it tight' to keep the bolt in place.
    hope this helps
    Merry Christmas
    Burt
     
  3. JimmyUp

    JimmyUp Registered Member

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    Hello Burt,

    Thanks for the feedback. i do have a question. When you say ther bolts must come up from the inside, do you mean the inside of the cab? If so I am concerned as my tub is completely Line-X'ed all the way up to the firewall. Also, how many lbs did you torque your bolts down to in an effort to avoid the hardening problem you described?

    Merry Christmas as well,
    Scott
     
  4. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    Yes all the bolts have to come up from the inside of the cab. They have been tack welded in place so you will have to grind those welds to get them out. I had to cut about half of mine out as they were "rust welded" to the sleeve. I found the best way was to drill them down from the top (with a bit bigger than the bolt size...I think I used 1/2") till the head popped off.

    These are the bolt sizes as posted by Steve Chin a while back:

    [ QUOTE ]
    Radiator Support: 7/16"-13 x 3.375" carriage bolt

    Body Mount #1: 9/16"-12 x 6" hex head cap screw

    Body Mount #2: 3/8"- 16 x 10" Carriage bolt

    Body Mount #3: 3/8"- 16 x 5.5" Carriage Bolt

    Body Mount #4: 3/8"- 16 x 4.5" Carriage bolt

    Body Mount #5: 3/8"- 16 x 5.5" Carriage bolt


    [/ QUOTE ] I think the ones under the radiator ended up a bit short for me so make it an even 3.5".

    I think if your body mounts are in good shape (is that even possible) that tossing on the soft top wouldn't hurt anything. When you do the body mounts do it with the hard top on to keep the body straight while you do it.
     

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