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Body Mount time

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by mouse, Oct 22, 2005.

  1. mouse

    mouse 1/2 ton status

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    New winter project - some of the original, 28 year old body mounts are wearing out - especially towards the front of the truck. Specifically the lower of the rubber portions are starting to severly crack, and with frame flex the shifter pops out on the trail time to time.

    Since Santa already has a car hauler and new welder on his list, I'm trying to keep this project on the cheap side. I know the poly mounts ride worse, but will probably hold up better with time. Has anyone tried just using the lower portion of poly mounts with the stock rubber top parts? Should I just order the rubber mounts that I need (not an entire set), and replace them as they wear out?

    With diesel prices higher than gas, I've been driving the blazer more, since there is less cost savings driving the diesel. Everyday driver? maybe, but not quite.

    Thoughts?
     
  2. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I'm curious if you do this what kind of results you have.

    I switched to all poly (mounts were ok that I replaced) and only noticed difference was how much more noise the body made when flexing. Body doesn't seem to be rigid enough to strengthen the frame even with the better characteristics of poly. That was my result anyway. Since your shifter is popping out, you've got an easy before/after to compare.

    Last I checked rubber body mounts are a lot more than the poly stuff, it just makes sense to go all poly. I for one noticed no difference in ride quality, its a 20 year old SFA truck and it's a rough ride all the time, comparatively.
     
  3. 454k30

    454k30 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I swapped out my worn out and disfigured body mounts on my '83 for poly and did not notice the ride get any worse. I cant remember how much mine cost but they didnt break the bank by any meens. They are very easy to install and I feel they are a better choice than rubber.
     
  4. BlitzK5

    BlitzK5 1/2 ton status

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    Since we are on the body mount topic. What is the fatory torque specs on the bolt? because im sure you will need to know.
     
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2005
  5. muddyblzr

    muddyblzr 1/2 ton status

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    i just did my body mounts on my k5. price from o'reilly for energy poly mounts was 94$. sitting them next to the stock mounts there easily 1/2'' taller than mine were. also your front two mounts under the radiator will probably need new bolts. mine were rotten in the middle and two of my friends were as well. not a hard project to do by any means
     
  6. mouse

    mouse 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for the opinions....looks like a full set of poly in the future. As far as the bolts go, this 1977 truck has NO rust anywhere near them, and should be easy to take out, just like everything has been. I looked for 3 months to find a rust free tub, and I got a good one when I bought this one. Not perfectly straight, but extremely solid, with only one small (quarter sized) rust spots on each of the rear inner panels (will be fixed soon). Heck, even the steering arm, and cone washers were a breeze - no BFH!

    Thanks again!
     
  7. gauder

    gauder Banned

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    If you want a cheap fix that'll get you by for a while, go to your local sports store and get some $0.99 hockey pucks. I've used them before and they work well.
     
  8. muddyblzr

    muddyblzr 1/2 ton status

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    edit on what i just said. i went to go finish off the rears and have never struggled so much in my life. the 1 5/8'' sleeve that are provided in energy's kit for the body mounts that are under the back seat are too small to fit around the square portion of the carriage bolt. bein that i daily drive my truck and have to have it on monday i took them to a friend and had them machined out to 3/4 i.d. energy will be getting a call from me on monday about that one. :angry1:
     
  9. Pookster

    Pookster 1/2 ton status

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    the rear square ones on the k5 right by the gas tank is a farkin PAIN to get to. Speaking of which, I still havent changed those out. I changed the other ones though. :doah:

    I need to change them on my burb, the body is literally moving seperate from the body. I am not looking forward to that.
     
  10. scubahard

    scubahard Registered Member

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    I noticed a change in ride quality when I put on Poly Body Mount bushings. The first time I drove I said to myself: "Wow, what a difference!" The factory rubber originals were worn out. I also hoped to reduce frame flex. I was able to feel the "little" bumps on the road (cracks, etc.). The ride quality was worse, but I didn't care because it was a trade off with having a more ridgid rig.
     
  11. muddyblzr

    muddyblzr 1/2 ton status

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    ya thats one thing i also noticed the poly mounts are alot harder and dont really compress much. i got alot more vibrations in my truck but id rather have those vibrations than frame flex and old corroded mounts.

    pookster i had a really hard time with my rear ones also. you have to keep the middle and front mounts out or really really loose to get the body high enough. i ended up dropped my tank to get to the rear two mounts. made things alot easier.
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Unless the mounts rusted in pieces, I don't believe that rear piece CAN be removed without taking the tank out. I did mine, and that rear mount assembly is way too big to get between the frame and tank.

    Not sure if it's different on earlier trucks, but I assume at least '81-91 used that mount piece.
     
  13. uglytruk

    uglytruk 1/2 ton status

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    So, I've read it all, and I'd rather have rubber mounts, but I don't want to spend the extra money. All of my bolts, washers, even some floor rot. I'll need some steel, jumbo washers, to weld to elongated hole. So how much for a full set of body mounts for an '87 Suburban 4x4? I don't want the rough ride. A 3/4 ton is rough enough...
     

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