Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Body Mounts

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by daleearnhardt01, Oct 8, 2004.

  1. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2002
    Posts:
    3,223
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    Body mounts are going in soon and I need some "What to Do Ifs"

    - If the bolt snaps what is the best way to approach it?
    - Welded nut comes undone, what to do?
    - On a slightly rusty truck what are the chances of this going
    smoothly?
    - Anything other than some Blaster to prepare the truck for
    job?
    - Any other pointers I should be aware of are appreciated.
     
  2. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2003
    Posts:
    12,838
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    B.C. CANADA
    have you already gotten the old bolts out?
     
  3. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2002
    Posts:
    3,223
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    Nope havent started yet...
     
  4. 84gmcjimmy

    84gmcjimmy 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2003
    Posts:
    12,838
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    B.C. CANADA
    Well, if your truck is as rusty as camok5, I doubt it will go smoothly... I still cant get the body mounts off.

    I dont think the welded nut will come off, and I think you couldn't break a body bolt unless your bending it, or its really stuck and you yank on it and it snaps...
    AllI can say is good luck /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif
     
  5. cybrfire

    cybrfire 1 ton status Vendor GMOTM Winner

    Joined:
    Dec 15, 2002
    Posts:
    15,139
    Likes Received:
    565
    Location:
    Iowa
    I've seen the body mount bolts brake. Kinda common actually. Best way I've found to deal with the broken bolt in the cab mounts are to drill a hole above the welded nut. Use a hole saw to gain access to the nut. Then you can remove the nut via torch or whatever you can come up with. Put your new bolts in and a plug in the hole that you made to gain access. If your truck is rusty they can be a PITA. Maybe to prep for it you can drill a small hole to get some PB blaster on top of the nut. Like say 1/4" hole and stick a straw down in there and hose it down a week or so ahead of time. PB Blaster works great but its nice to have gravity helping it get to all the threads. I've tried warming the bolts with a torch but never had much luck with that.

    Good luck.
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

    Joined:
    May 30, 2001
    Posts:
    17,669
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    IL, USA
    Yep, I broke one of mine too. I ended up sawzalling it off, cutting a hole in the floor, removing the weld nut completely, and putting a hex nut inside there.

    Cut an "X" pattern in the floor and you can easily pound it back flat and weld it up.
     
  7. wasted wages

    wasted wages 3/4 ton status

    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2003
    Posts:
    9,194
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Dallas Texas
    On my 79 I took a hole saw and drilled the top side of the floor board after measuring from the door sill to the center of the body mount bolt.
    Just cut thru the sheetmetal and you will find the square nut plate that is hiding in there.I replaced mine with bolts and nuts and fabbed a small cover to hide the hole saw hole.
    Make any sense????
    /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif
     
  8. daleearnhardt01

    daleearnhardt01 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2002
    Posts:
    3,223
    Likes Received:
    2
    Location:
    Richmond, VA
    Makes good sense yall..Thanks
     
  9. nvrenuf

    nvrenuf NONE shall pass! Premium Member

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2002
    Posts:
    13,073
    Likes Received:
    245
    Location:
    Mobile, Al.
    Seems like I've heard of people putting anti-seize on the bushings so keep them from squeaking after installation. That's probably what the Blaster is for but I doubt it would last as long.
     
  10. spearchucker

    spearchucker 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2003
    Posts:
    1,556
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Bay area, CA
    I'm in the process of doing mine. Luckily mines a rust-free truck so I don't know about those broken bolt issues. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif But I did find that the cups and retainers were pretty rusted with deep pits. I cleaned some of them up, but then just decided to order new ones along with new bolts from LMC. The ones you have on there now may look ok but once you get them off you'll see how much they're rusted and eaten away. Also when you jack the body up you need to keep the springs from unloading or you'll never be able to lift the body up. I've heard of some people using a chain from the axle to the frame. I used a tow strap tied to the frame and put the other end under the jack. Then just put a 2x4 going from the jack to a sturdy part of the body.
    Just an FYI: I noticed that there's threadlocker on all the bolts I removed. So you're not just fighting rust, but a yellowish threadlocker.
     

Share This Page