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Body off resto/cleanup

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BowtieRed, Feb 12, 2004.

  1. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    Ok, I think i've decided I'm just going to take it down to the frame, and sand that down, give it a few coats of POR17, replace what i find broken, pull the tranny/t-case and sandblazt the both and paint them. (when i painted them in my install i left some dirt on so it's coming off) i REALLY wish i had a sandblaster that i could use for the frame, but the beadblaster i have access to is a contained one. anyway for all the wires from the body to the frame i think i'll just clip thme and get some plugs, to speed the rebuild process up. any ideas/tips? i might even have the body painted while it's off.
     
  2. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    No reason to clip the wires, they come apart in big pieces by un plugging them.
     
  3. beater_k20

    beater_k20 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Ok, I think i've decided I'm just going to take it down to the frame, and sand that down, give it a few coats of POR17, replace what i find broken, pull the tranny/t-case and sandblazt the both and paint them. (when i painted them in my install i left some dirt on so it's coming off) i REALLY wish i had a sandblaster that i could use for the frame, but the beadblaster i have access to is a contained one. anyway for all the wires from the body to the frame i think i'll just clip thme and get some plugs, to speed the rebuild process up. any ideas/tips? i might even have the body painted while it's off.

    [/ QUOTE ]

    if you're using POR-15 dont sandblast your frame. and if you do decide for some reason to blast it, and then coat it with POR, do yourself a favor and leave it sit outside exposed to the elements for a month or so. enough for it to get a good coat of rust on it. POR is moisture curing, so it will draw the moisture out of the rust, stopping it in its tracks, and making the finish harder. you dont have to worry about the finish of the metal you're preparing, because POR lays out very smooth. BTW, one coat should be more than sufficient.
     
  4. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Sounds good, I always like a guy that trys to keep everything in good shape.

    I don't know about blasting the t-case and tranny, I wouldn't wan't sand getting inside somehow, it's pretty darn fine sand that you have to use.
     
  5. Cmoe

    Cmoe 1/2 ton status

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    You can have them soda blasted your trany and t-case..... There isn't any resudue left and it cleans just as well as sand blasting except not as harmfull.....
     
  6. BowtieRed

    BowtieRed 1/2 ton status Author

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    i'd be avoiding the tailshaft housing altogether and probably avoid the bellhousing too then take it off and beadblast it seperately.
     
  7. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    I disagree on needing to wait on the frame. I sandblasted my frame, then used POR's Marine Clean, then their Metal Ready before I POR-15'ed my frame. I did 2-3 coats of regular POR-15 and then a coat of their Chassis Black. My frame came out excellent. Pics here: http://community.webshots.com/user/douglasgrant I set up a booth in my garage by hanging plastic sheeting. Then I got a cheap small fan and used cardboard to vent it while I shot it. I bought a sandblaster from Sears for less than $100 and I've used it many times over already. I also did my Corp14ff with it and several other parts. It was a worthwhile investment.
     
  8. Stickseler

    Stickseler 3/4 ton status

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    Nice pics of the clean up...but you shackles are on upside down /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  9. Desert Rat

    Desert Rat Fetch the comfy chair

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    You know, I was wondering why the tires stuck up so far in the wheel wells............ /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
     

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