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Boiling starter

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Sammy, May 16, 2001.

  1. Sammy

    Sammy 1/2 ton status

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    I have headers on my K5's 350. But when they get hot, the right side header heats up my starter engine. The magnets 'boil' and loose power. So after a good drive, it almst can't turn the engine and this (in combination with an electronic ignition system) causes some explotions through the exhausts.

    Now for the questions. I'm I the only one having this problem, and what could I do to stop it from boiling?



    "K5 Grand GT Blazer Silverado in the Netherlands."
     
  2. Wheels

    Wheels 1/2 ton status

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    Not sure of the magnets boiling, but I had the solenoid get hot and wouldn't turn the starter over until it cooled down. Relocated the solenoid to the right front fender and cured the problem. Used a Ph**d solenoid, had to change battery cable out. Running Hedman Hedders.
     
  3. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    This is a very common problem with Chevy (GM) starters when you run headers. You sometimes have this problem even without headers depending on your exhaust routing. You can make (or buy, J.C. Whitney? Pep Boys? not sure who has them) a heat shield. Sometimes these help but they are somewhat marginal. Picture a sheet of metal sort of bent over the starter (like 1/2 a coffee can) and spaced about 1/2 inch off the starter body. This would block some of the radiant heat from the headers and allows somewhat cooler air to circulate between the shield and starter (most importantly, the solenoid).

    For many, (especially high powered street/strip cars) the only way to really fix this is to move the solenoid to a cooler remote location. You can do it yourself (if you know what your doing or are persistent) by using a Ford solenoid or you can buy kits (again, not sure where you get the kits) to do this.

    Bad Dog

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, NP205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Soon: 4" lift, 40" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Summit Racing has the remote solenoid kits...

    Rene

    [​IMG]<A target="_blank" HREF=http://jules.coloradok5.com>http://jules.coloradok5.com</A>
     
  5. chevyfumes

    chevyfumes Court jester

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    Watch for the muzzleflash!
    Thanks guy's you learn something new everyday on this site, and I think you just solved one of my problems.Thanks for asking the question Sammy[​IMG]


    [​IMG]<font color=blue> I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy!
     
  6. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    I personally like the heat blankets for starters. Think they work a little better or you can double it up w/ a heat shield if you don't want to move the solenoid.

    [​IMG]
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
     
  7. muddin4fun

    muddin4fun 3/4 ton status

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    I would try a heat shield first cause it's pretty easy to install. If that doesn't work, then relocating the solinoid should work. I picked up a heat sheild from Napa for 20 bucks.

    [​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html>http://k5chevyblazer.homestead.com/home.html</A>
     
  8. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Ok hear is how it works in my brain.
    The silinoid getting hot is only 1/2 the problem.
    The positive batt. cable getting hot is the other 1/2.
    I'm sure most of you have heard that heat creates resistance, yes/no maby so....
    Anyway after a long ride the cable is hot and resistance is high so current flow
    is low(no power to sling that hot siliniod)and the starter won't turn.

    The Fix:
    get a ford siliniod from parts house for 15bucks & mount it to your fender well or
    were ever just away from the motor.
    Put a jumper wire (10gage is fine) from the Batt terminal(on the GM sili) to the starter wire (key)
    on the GM siliniod. Hook the original batt cable from the GM starter to the 'dead'
    side of your new slilinoid. Relocate the starter wire(key) to the new sili's starter
    wire(key). Hook up the + side of the Batt to the 'hot' side of the new sili and you will NEVER have
    the "GM Hot Start" issue again....EVER!!

    The deal is that now that cable that is getting hot after a long run is a 'dead' cable
    until the key is turned and now a 'fresh' blast of curret/power hit that hot cable and
    the resistance doesn't have time to build and the hot GM sili fires the starter!!!!!
    Hope this helps


    72K5[​IMG]Led Zeppelin[​IMG]Rock ON![​IMG]
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com>http://www.burt4x4.coloradok5.com</A>
     

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