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Boxed frame. Yay or Nay?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Custom6.2, Jul 17, 2006.

  1. Custom6.2

    Custom6.2 Registered Member

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    Hey everyone, first of all, this is my first post as I am new here. I hope to have some good talk about off-roading with all of you as it is a passion of mine.

    Ok, I have a question about boxing frames. What are the benifits? I know that when I am out flexing on rocks and whatnot that the flexing frame makes up for mediocre suspension. To counter act this, I would believe that making the frame stronger and upgrading suspension would be key not only to better handling but calmer piece of mind. ANy help on this topic would be greatly appreciated.

    1984 Custom Deluxe
    6.2 deisel
    6-inch Skyjacker lift
    37-inch tires
     
  2. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    If you are gonna box, I say, do it from front to rear.

    If you do bits and pieces the frame will crack at the edges of the box. ask me how i know.

    i did mine. you can see them in my pictures. i used the same thikcness as the frame--3/16

    time consuming, but worth it in every way.
     
  3. Custom6.2

    Custom6.2 Registered Member

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    Thanks for the insight.
    Where can I see your pictures?
     
  4. 79k20350

    79k20350 3/4 ton status

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    if your gonna run a cage just securely tie the cage into the frame. its stronger and much easier.
     
  5. Custom6.2

    Custom6.2 Registered Member

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    Yeah, youve got a good point. I was planning on caging the engine bay all the way through to the bed. The more I think about it, the better it seems. Two birds with one stone.
     
  6. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    cage is going to stiffen it up quite nicely, I wouldn't worry about boxing if you are doing that much cage work.
     
  7. mikey_d05

    mikey_d05 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I'm going to box and tie all the tube work into the frame. It's sound theory and apparently 85mudblazin's truggy is putting some pretty big stresses on his frame because it's not boxed and wants to bend where it's not supported by tubes.
     
  8. 1-ton

    1-ton 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Another thing you might want to consider, if you are going to take your truck down to the bare frame, is cut off and remove all the factory rivets from the frame. Then replace them with Grade-8 bolts and locking nuts. The factory rivets get loose over time, especially if you take it off road a lot.
     
  9. Custom6.2

    Custom6.2 Registered Member

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    Ah, cool tips. Thanks for that.
     
  10. bgreen

    bgreen 1/2 ton status

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    I would recommend doing both the cage and the boxed frame, neither alone will be enough to make a completely stiff and reliable chassis. I wouldnt get carried away with the plate though, something heavier than 1/16 but lighter than 1/8 would be my preference. 1/8 if there is nothing else available.

    I have a multi (more than 8) point exo with plenty of triangulation, boxed frame, and basically solid motor and tranny mounts, but I can still stick my hand between the cage and cab, or cab and tranny, and feel things moving around a bit. I'll be throwing a bit of in-cab triangulation and building some more drivetrain x-members next winter to help change that.
     
  11. Custom6.2

    Custom6.2 Registered Member

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    Well that sounds like the optimum route to take.
    What are you driving by the way?
     
  12. Citizen Rider

    Citizen Rider 1/2 ton status

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