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Boxing my frame in.

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 78Blazer, May 22, 2000.

  1. 78Blazer

    78Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    Has anyone here done this?? If so is it worth it? also do I then run all the break lines etc.. on the outside of the frame now??



    Scott
    78blazer
     
  2. nyyef

    nyyef 1/2 ton status

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    would like to know the same.
    also, what size/type of steel is recommended.
    thanx


    Knife.
     
  3. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    hmmm, I have never done this but if memory servs the Blazer is not a good candidate for boxing the frame.Flex is important part of the K5body to frame, if the frame nolonger has the ability to flex then i see busted body mounts as the main problem. This is just my opinon!
    good luck

    Rock ON![​IMG] 72 K5 [​IMG] Led Zeppelin
     
  4. Brian 89KBlazer

    Brian 89KBlazer 1/2 ton status

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    Once again and with all due respect to those with differing opinions, I thinking boxing the frame is a great idea!! Sure, the frame flexes offroad but it's basically destroying body mounts and any other items attached rigidly to it as it does so. On a pick-up where the bed is separate, I might agree but on a vehicle like the Blazer, I think all that flexing is only detrimental. By boxing the frame, you force the suspension to do the flexing work (what it was designed for) and allow the engine, trans, and body mounts, etc to attach the components to the frame (which they were meant to do) without undue stresses that eventually lead to cracking. I'm going one step further in my eventual rebuild. I will be building a six point roll cage that will also attach rigidly to the frame, adding to the stiffness of the boxed frame. It's just my opinion, but I think that flexing should be left to suspension components, not body mounts and panels.
    As to where to mount lines and such, I see you have one of two choices. Either leave "access windows" in the boxing plate with a reinforcing frame welded around it or do like you suggested and mount everything to the outside of the frame.

    Just my $0.02 worth

    Brian
     
  5. James90

    James90 1/2 ton status

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    If yor do put windows in your frame make sure the coneres in the windows are round not squar it will be a lot stonger with the round coneres at less I thank.

    I know that is why air plane windows have round coneres to add streth to the matel. but runing your line on the out side is most likely the best way to go that way you dont even haft to mess wiht windows.

    Go prepared
    90 k5 soon to be big, bad, and mean
     
  6. Eagle86K5

    Eagle86K5 1/2 ton status

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    I would say it is a bad idea, the frame was engineered with a certain amount of flex, you remove the flex, things will start to break, I see the frame trying to flex and the boxing breaking out, or other parts attached to the frame breaking due to the loss of flex.

    <font color=green>[​IMG]Eagle86K5[​IMG]<font color=red>
    Masonry...It's a Good Thing
    2B1ASK1
     
  7. blazer72

    blazer72 1/2 ton status

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    Runing a lot more tork than most of you I have asked this one befor too! The anser is no Try to do as little to the frame as you can and weld to it as little as you can. Most of what makes the blazers good is the flexing of the frame and the body... But do as you will Were not talking about some little car or a baby SUV that started out with a 4 banger (can you say JEEP) Were talking a 3/4 ton truck here guyes. I say all this and I've spent the night trying to find just were I bent my frame !!!!!!!!
     

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