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brain farts come at the worst time...

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 55Willy, Nov 12, 2003.

  1. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    I'm trying to figure out if I need to preload the anti- wrap bar? also my idea for my rear shocks. they are gonna be mounted to the spring plates and head back in the fenderwell. I was thinking of widening the wheel weel to the frame rail or there abouts and then mount the shock in the wheel well(keeps the mud out of the inside) and then run a bar between the mounts on the fenders for my spare tire.. kinda a two birds with one stone kinda thing,LOL.


    any imput?

    -Jeremy
     
  2. TrcksR4ME

    TrcksR4ME 1/2 ton status

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    Ummm, that pretty damn complicated stuff (says the hack). Almost could be in that new fangled forum /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  3. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    well I figured shocks through the bed are becoming standard issue so I posted it here,LOL
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I set my anti-wrap basically neutral and flat with a long goofy shackle in front. I'm stoked over how well it works. I don't think pre-loading is needed for most setups, but I'm looking forward to additional input here.

    I also like the idea of the shocks in the wells. Much better than big holes if you want to keep the inside clean. You wouldn't even need to make the whole well that big, just make some "bumps" (sorta like the gas filler thing) to fit the shocks.
     
  5. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    I narrowed then at first to fit the narrower body. so i was thinking of just grinding the spot welds and bringing them back out to stock width, just moved towards the frame. roughly 3.5" so they woudl be "stock" width.

    how long is your shackle or is that personal,LMAO!
     
  6. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    It's about as long as... well... er... let's just say around 10"... /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
     
  7. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    whats the side effects of a less endowed system. my shackle is about 5"
     
  8. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    I made mine that "well endowed" for 2 reasons. My axle has a tremendous amount of movements and I wanted the end of the anti-wrap to move (more) straight forward as the axle swings down and forward. A shorter radius would mean the front of the bar would actually be going up as the axle tried to go down. The other was simple fit. I have a fore-aft shackle built from 1.75 x 0.120 wall HREW and spring bushings on both ends. Below that (mounted to the bushing/hinge) is a transverse plate with a hole in it. The anti-wrap bar terminates with a 1" threaded rod that goes through that hole located by a set of bushing like Ford radius arms. This allows for the fore-aft movement of the axle as well as articulation rotation of the arm for reduced (hopefully minimal) bind without the need for expensive rod ends to wear out and bang around...
     
  9. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    wish it would quit raining so I could understand that better,LOL.
     
  10. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    I made mine that "well endowed" for 2 reasons. My axle has a tremendous amount of movements and I wanted the end of the anti-wrap to move (more) straight forward as the axle swings down and forward. A shorter radius would mean the front of the bar would actually be going up as the axle tried to go down. The other was simple fit. I have a fore-aft shackle built from 1.75 x 0.120 wall HREW and spring bushings on both ends. Below that (mounted to the bushing/hinge) is a transverse plate with a hole in it. The anti-wrap bar terminates with a 1" threaded rod that goes through that hole located by a set of bushing like Ford radius arms. This allows for the fore-aft movement of the axle as well as articulation rotation of the arm for reduced (hopefully minimal) bind without the need for expensive rod ends to wear out and bang around...

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Do you have a pic of that ? Sounds like my 6 y.o. concept that combined the Sam's arm with the device that fellow on bc4x4.com built using a Ford radius arm.
    What I figured to do was to build an 'A' arm like the Sam's arm that uses a shackle, but terminate it's forward end with a drawbar pin and let the pin slide back and forth thru a drawbar spherical bearing. Thot that I'd mount the drawbar bearing to the frame with hega's to dampen some/all of the NVH. A little grease on the pin & ball and some shock boots to keep the grunge off and I'd be good to go. Turns out that I my rear springs on that truck are more than a match for the 3.5 mildly irritated squirrels under the hood.
     
  11. fwdjunky

    fwdjunky 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, ok, I know this is a classic bronco, (I've owned one for 14 years, will NEVER sell it) but was thinking it was what you were talking about. Wild horses has been selling this set up for years, so what I'm getting at is you've got a great idea that's already proven to work.



    [​IMG]
     
  12. 55Willy

    55Willy 3/4 ton status

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    sweet /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif thanks for the pic.
     
  13. unick

    unick 1/2 ton status

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    I was thinking about doing that same thing when I but some bilsteins in.


    Nick
     
  14. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    [ QUOTE ]
    Ok, ok, I know this is a classic bronco, (I've owned one for 14 years, will NEVER sell it) but was thinking it was what you were talking about. Wild horses has been selling this set up for years, so what I'm getting at is you've got a great idea that's already proven to work.

    [​IMG]

    [/ QUOTE ]
    Wow, that's exactly what I was talking about, but that has much more spread at the bottom than I envisioned. How much spread needed depends on the axle and orientation with the top pivot, but that seems excessive. I guess it was built for "worst case" and general use.
     

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