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brake bleeder tool

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by 78Suburban, Jul 19, 2006.

  1. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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  2. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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  3. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    I guess you're saying I need to read up on building my own power bleeder huh? I'll definitely give that some thought...the 25 bucks would probably be worth it in agony it would save.. I suppose the garen sprayer thing will work with only one person too? I don't know if I can find anybody with the patience to do it the old fashion way :crazy:
     
  4. Citizen Rider

    Citizen Rider 1/2 ton status

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    If you are the only one around, get you a set of speed bleeders....1 ton did a post on them not long ago.
     
  5. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    LOL, yeah. Yep, one person, the only way to do it. I've not had the best luck with the speedbleeders, plus I have four trucks, so the garden sprayer was cheaper. :deal:

    That thing from Summit you posted can be had from your local Kragen/Schucks/Vatozone/Napa, maybe eight bucks the last time I checked, or can be made with $1 worth of plastic hose from the hardware store and a peanut butter jar or the like. They're okay, but the pressure bleeding really is the ONLY way to do it ... believe you me, as I've bled brakes more times than I can count after my disc and hydroboost upgrades on two trucks.

    -- A
     
  6. 86dieselburb

    86dieselburb 1/2 ton status

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    Yup..speed bleeders. One man can bleed the brakes in less than 10 minutes. No fuss, no muss.
     
  7. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    Here's what I found using the ilustrious search button. Any other parts I need to look for? Is it easy to find extra Master Cylinder lids at the parts store, and do they come with a gasket? I don't have an NPT tap I don't think, just the regular SAE kind, can I buy pipe thread taps individually? What is "tygon tubing"? Anybody got any links to illustrated instucitons so I can see what some of these fittings look like?

    I swear I've seen a website on making one of these before.
     
  8. spearchucker

    spearchucker 1/2 ton status

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    I think I remember seeing a write-up here in the technical section, but I can't check since I don't have access. :doah:

    Here's a couple other links too:
    Power bleeder #1
    Power bleeder #2
     
  9. fabjunkie

    fabjunkie 1/2 ton status

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    Those are good links. I just have a few questions. Exactly how do you use it? Just pump it up the 10 pumps or so (for the 20-25psi) and then do like normal? Will one pump up last long enough to do one wheel?
     
  10. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    lonesome bleeder...

    I used a lot of tricks to bleed brakes alone..one is to fab up a glass jar with a screw on steel lid with 2 peices of 3/16"steel brake tubing soldered into the lid--one protrudes nearly all the way to the bottom,the other only goes 1" below the lid..you'll need about 15-20' of vinyl tubing 3/16" in diameter..

    You hook a long 3/16" vacuum hose to the "short" tube that just goes only 1" under the lid--that one goes to your vacuum supply--your engine!!--and you attach a peice of hose from the other tube in the jar that goes nearly to the bottom,and attach its other end to the bleeder screw..(clippy clothespins help to hold the hose on the bleeder).. add enough brake fluid to cover the "long" tube in the jar,an inch or two is plenty..then all you do is put the vacuum hose to a manifold vacuum source on the engine,and start it up..open the bleeder,and watch the air get sucked out!..close bleeder,go on to the next one,and before you know it,your done!

    Best thing is no pedal pumping,which means no chance of trashing the master cylinder cups by forcing them past their normal range of travel in the bore of the master cyl,where its often rusty and pitted..

    I've also used the pump sprayer off of a squirt bottle that had household cleaner in it (like 409,etc..)..they have a check valve built in that works well to bleed brakes..most have the check valve in the "head",and have a skinny plastic tube that goes deep into the bottle to suck up the fliud--on that style,all you need to do is unscrew the pump from the bottle,and use vacuum hose to attach its plastic tube to the bleeder screw,and you pump the trigger just like you normally would--it sucks the air and brake fluid out easily and quickly!..

    Other spray bottles have the check valve at the bottom of that plastic tube..that style you pull that tube out of the trigger head and use vaccuum hose to attach it to the bleeder,and you submerge the check valve under some brake fliud in a jar or can,then pump the pedal slowly and release about 5-6 times,and close the bleeder..


    I've had good luck with those "Mighty-Vac tools that you pump up and test vacuum canisters with,they make a brake bleeding attachment--only thing I dont like about those is they seem to fail pretty often,and they aren't cheap!..speed bleeders work OK,but I wouldn't leave them in,I'd put the old bleeders back in..those speed bleeders would rot away in my area in record time!..:crazy:
     
  11. greyhoundjc

    greyhoundjc 1/2 ton status

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    I bought one of the cheaper plastic Phoenix bleeder tools from ebay for around $30.00. There deal is you remove the cap from the m/c and pump fluid up from the brake bleeder screws to the m/c, although you can suck fliud from the m/c out through the bleeder scews for the more traditional way. I usually use a combination of both. It works pretty well and is a one man job in about 15 minutes. I've used it on a few different cars with good results. When pushing fluid to the m/c just be careful not to squirt brake fluid all the engine compartment like I did! :doah:
     
  12. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    Yes, you can get taps individually. I just bought a bung at the hardware store and welded it on, but I get stupid with the MIG :)

    Tygon sounds like a brand name of plastic. I bought the clear plastic tubing my local hardware store had, works fine.

    You can generally get new covers for the metal masters that come stock; I've not found extra covers for the P30 master I'm using. I just used a flat piece of 1/4" or so plate and some foam rubber at the local hardware store.

    You worry about stuff way, WAAAY too much. It's easy:

    Garden sprayer, small one (~1 gallon) is fine. You can clean it out and use it to put gear oil into your pumpkin too :)

    Take off the spray wand, put on the plastic tubing. This may take some fiddling and a hoseclamp or something, but all you want it to do is pump and hold pressure, doesn't have to be fancy or fireproof like fuel lines :)

    Make some kind of bung on the flat steel plate for the tubing to connect to, and put something like rubber or cork or something underneat the plate, so that you can get a good seal onto the master.

    A pressure gauge is nice, but with a small sprayer, you'd hafta really CRANK on it like 20 or 30 times to get too much pressure.

    So, pump it up so you get pressure on the master and you don't hear hissing.

    I usually pump it up between wheels, but to answer your question, you can prolly get two wheels' worth of bleeding between pumps.

    I also bleed the he!! out of mine, to keep the lines clean and get old fluid out. I have a peanut butter jar, 40oz, that I use to capture the fluid on the far end. Same drill as manual bleeding, start at rear right, rear left, then front right, front left.

    Basically, you want to pressurize the system, and blow all the bubbles out so you only have fluid from the master, all the way to the back. Using the pressure system, you don't have to dink with the pedal, just pressurize, crack, wait until you get solid fluid, then tighten, and go around all four.

    Takes less time to do then it did for me to type this. Try it -- it's really much easier than it sounds and you're stressing too much. If *I* can figure it out, anybody can.

    -- A
     
  13. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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  14. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    LOL, now that's the truth... I get the basic idea of how it functions. I'll try to pick up the stuff to do it with at the hardware store.

    If I find a new MC top to buy, and end up using that, I suppose I would have to flip it around after doing two wheels, so it would pressureize the other little chamber of the resevoir? I'm thinking the little chamber in the back and the big camber in the front each go with a set of wheels, front or back, but I can't remember which ones they go to......

    If I just use steel plate and rubber gasket stuff, then I guess a big C clamp would be best for securing it to the resevoir?

    I just found that I actually DO have one NPT tap.. its 1/8", maybe I can find a fitting that size..

    sorry for my extended worring over nothing too complicated... I don't get to wrench in the eveingings, and I usually don't have much better to do :doah:
     
  15. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    A 1/4 NPT tap shouldn't set you back more than five bucks or so.

    The rear chamber on a stock cylinder goes to the front wheels... basically, the one with the most force (closest to the booster) powers the wheels that require the most force (front.) Forward chamber is for the rear wheels.

    I drilled TWO holes in the plate and tee'd the line going, to pressurize both ends at once, and yeah, a C-Clamp does it. See attached... this is my C20/30 pickup back when it had vacuum boost.

    On some of my masters, the divider between the chambers goes all the way to the top, on others it does, so the one plate I have has to do double duty (too many trucks! :)) I ended up cutting out the center section of the rubber gasket I made as well.

    Anyway, I think this stuff is easier when you understand how it works, so that was why I got all long-winded above ... hopefully other people will read it and grok it and we'll all bleed happily ever after :haha:

    HTH.

    -- A

    brake-bleeder-clamp.JPG
     
  16. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    2 last anal questions.. then I'll be good to go..

    if I don't get a guage, how many pumps should I do for each wheel?

    If I use the Wal Mart DOT-3 brake fluild I've been using, am I going to have brake failure and die? This is the cheapest stuff made.. :D
     
  17. dremu

    dremu Officious Thread Derailer Premium Member

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    I'd pump it until it starts to get hard to pump. Generating 20psi with a partially full garden sprayer takes some arm action.

    The guy at the local parts place, been there forever, knows his sh!t, says this:

    Brake fluid is cheap. Calipers aren't.

    I'm sure if you were racing and left the fluid in there for years, the Wally World stuff might get water in it and get nasty quicker.

    I seem to empty mine out at least yearly, if not more often, so anything will do. I bleed until the stuff that looks like iced tea is gone and I get the nice honey-colored stuff at each wheel.

    IOW, the cheap stuff should be fine. I get "Johnsen's" from the local chain by the gallon for like $14.

    -- A
     
  18. 2Dogs

    2Dogs 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Good stuff, bookmarked ;)
     
  19. 78Suburban

    78Suburban 1/2 ton status

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    I'm definitely going to build a power bleeder at some point, but right now I'm flat out broke, and bleeding the brakes is basically the very last thing I need to do for my lift. I'm anxious to test drive the bad boy. I can probably con a buddy into pumping the pedal for about 2 hours.

    If the buddy puts one foot under the pedal, to keep it from overextending and screwing up the MC, I suppose they will still bleed ok?

    I need to try it the old fashion way at least once, so when I get off my lazy butt and build the power bleeder, I'll be more appreciative :laugh:
     

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