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brake question...need help fast

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 90K5, Sep 22, 2001.

  1. 90K5

    90K5 1/2 ton status

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    OK...after putting the rear end back in, there was a lot of air i nthe brake lines. Tried to bled the brakes, but I think there was too much. Pedal goes all the way to the floor, brakes don't work. Do i need one of those pressure bleed thing? The brake shop tried to tell me I had a leak somewhere, but I know thats not the case. Is it possible I did any damage to the brake system by bleeding them, or is there just air in them and they need a pressure bleed? I kept the master cylinder full, so should it be allright? Thanks

    90K5
     
  2. BurbinOR

    BurbinOR 3/4 ton status

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    I'd check all your lines to make sure they are tight, and there is no leaking there or at the wheel cylinders or calipers. If that all checks out, go have it power bled. Your symptoms sound similar to what I had after my one ton conversion, but mine stopped at least [​IMG]. Are you saying the brakes won't work at all?

    <font color=blue>'79 ONE TON TPI K5 - See it at---&gt;<a target="_blank" href=http://www.blazzinor.rockcrawler.com>www.blazzinor.rockcrawler.com</a>
     
  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If you are not getting fluid at ONE wheel, I'd highly suspet the line/wheel cylinder on that side, after it splits. Since the front and rear brakes run off of one line (essentially) if only one wheel is getting fluid, then there is more likely to be a problem with the other side.

    May sound dumb, but how about cracking the bleeder that doesn't appear to do anything, hook a hose up to it, and have someone watch the fluid reservoir as you blow through it? If you can't blow through it, must be blockage. If you can, and get bubbles at the MC, then perhaps wheel cylinder.

    I think a "leak" is pretty unlikely, as there would be great tendency for it to leak so you could see it. Check VERY well all the wheels and lines for leaks. If a wheel cylinder is leaking, it might escape your eye for a bit, if the wheel and drum are on.


    Dorian
    My tech/links page: &lt;a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html&gt;http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html&lt;/a&gt;
    No anti-theft measures on your truck? No pity when its stolen
     
  4. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Pull the beeder out and see if it's plugged up. The bleeders will fill up with dirt and crud and rust the hole shut.
    I have found the best way to bleed the brakes is with the $25 vacume pump set up they have at most parts stores. I just replaced a brake line and bleed the system in about 5 minutes.
    If your going to do the pump the peddle routine there is a valve that should be pressed on the proportioning valve on the front crossmember. It will have a rubber cap on one end and the valve is under that. It's doesnt need to be pressed if you power bleed with the vacume pump.

    I don't need no damn shop manual, I got a pornographic memory.
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    Grim-Reaper
     
  5. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Grim: Can you give me a bit more info on the vacuum pump method? is it a simple as hooking it up to the bleed valve and sucking some fluid out?



    <font color=blue> WE WILL NEVER SURRENDER<font color=blue>
     
  6. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yeah that's about it. The kit comes with some adaptors to fit the bleed screw. Pump it up till it holds vac then open the bleed screw and it will suck the fluid and air out. Sometimes if the bleed screw is a little loose in it's threads you will see very small bubbles that is air getting around the bleed screw. Ignore them. look for big bubbles. Just keep an eye on the fluid level in the master. 3/4 full on the catch cup is about how much fluid the rear brake section of the master's resivior will hold. You drain that once that's enough fluid that you have cleared the lines.
    The pump is also handy for testing Vac operated stuff on the truck like EGR, Heater flaps, Vac advance. Pretty handy little tool. I have got a lot of use out of mine.

    I don't need no damn shop manual, I got a pornographic memory.
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  7. Can Can

    Can Can Pusher Man Staff Member Super Moderator

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    Thanks Grim!!!! I was going to do it the "old-fashioned way" this weekend and that involves dragging the wife out to the garage for a while but I think(actually, I know[​IMG])that she wouldn't mind me spending some cash on a new tool if it means she doesn't have to get involved!!!!!!



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  8. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    hahaha. New tool is always nice to have.
    Last time the lady helped me she almost rearranged my already bad enough looking face with a w58 Toyota Manual transmission and the 7MGE 6 cyl engine on the other end was backing it up. Slipped a little on the release valve while lowering the booger in to the car. I was under it guidding it into place. Thank god I was on a creeper and had a hold of the tranny. just pushed me to the back of the car. Was a honest mistake. We get along good and I don't have that big of life insurance pollicy to bother with.

    I don't need no damn shop manual, I got a pornographic memory.
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    75 Jimmy, Dollar
    Grim-Reaper
     
  9. COOTER

    COOTER Registered Member

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    I HAD ALOT OF PROBLEMS WITH THE BRAKES ON MY 88 SILVERADO . I COULDNT BLEED THEM.I BOUGHT THAT VACUME PUMP AND BLEEDER KIT COMES WITH THE LITTLE CUP WITH TWO HOSE NIPPLES ON THE CAP. I GOT IT GOOD ENOUGH TO DRIVE BUT DIDNT LIKE HOW IT STOPED, I TOOK IT TO GOOD YEAR AND THEY GRAVITY BLEED IT.GUESS THAT CONSIST OF HOOKING A BIG JUG OF BRAKE FLUID TO THE RESEVIOR AND OPENING ALL THE BLEEDER SCREWS.HOPE THIS HELPS



    HELD TOGETHER WITH MUD AND BUMPERSTICKERS.
     

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