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Brake Re-build..hard?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by **DONOTDELETE**, Jun 12, 2001.

    Rotors, Drums, Calipers, Lines, the works...besides the $$ what kind of weekend am I looking at. Degree of diffuculty? Anything I should look out for?

    thanks



    '84 K5

    Chevy in my blood.
     
  1. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Plan on spending around $500.00 on the parts alone. Get the rotors and drums turned down while they are off the truck. If you can get the parts and the rotors and drums turned right away, plan on a weekend to reinstall them.

    <font color=red>I m so we Todd did.
    I m sofa king we Todd did.</font color=red>
     
  2. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    Well since this sounds like the first time for you to do this,
    do your self a big favor and only dissasemle one side at a time on the rear brakes.
    That way you will have a coplete set to reference when reassemling the otherside.
    It can get kind of confusing when you have a pile of springs and you don't remember how they went. ;-)

    my truck's not dirty, it's earth tone paint
     
  3. Wait, I have to get the new rotors & drums turned first? I am new to this, but I thought they would be good to go out of the box, damn. oh well, needs to be done

    '84 K5

    Chevy in my blood.
     
  4. POWERMAD

    POWERMAD 1/2 ton status

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    If you are going to be installing new rotors and drums then they should be good to go.

    my truck's not dirty, it's earth tone paint
     
  5. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    If the drums and rotors are new, don't worry about turning them. I learnt the hard way though, before you put them on; get a small sanding disc, I use 1.5 inch or 2 inch dia. discs and some 80 grit sandpaper and give them what is called a "cross hatched"; meaning sand around the rotorin a circular motion all around. Drums are a little harder. This keeps everything from glazing and making neat noises. As for the disc, I got it from Pep Boys. The rotor is a drill attachment and the discs screw into the rotor. Works great.

    "Liberals ain't mean, they just don't have any common sense!"
     
  6. GRINCH

    GRINCH 1/2 ton status

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    Get yourself a brass hammer to pound the lug nuts from the existing front rotor from the outer hub. The new rotors are just that. You could also use a press if available.
    Be sure to get new bearings and seals. The races should be fine. Clean everything really good after dismantling. Don't overdue the grease as it holds heat.

    The Few, The Proud, The K5 Blazer
     
  7. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Ok, I see my mistake. I didnt know you were installing NEW rotors and drums. [​IMG]
    Ok, I have seen and heard few controversies about whether to slap the rotors and drums on if they are brand new. While this may work for most people, some others just go ahead and turn them down a tiny spec just to play it safe. How are you going to feel when you get all finished installing everything and take it out for a test run to find the rotors or drums have a slight warp or wobble in them? Like a jackass! So, just to play it safe, take them to a shop and have them turned down just a little bit. The cost shouldnt run you over 20 to 30 bucks. Just a little safety precaution. [​IMG]

    <font color=red>I m so we Todd did.
    I m sofa king we Todd did.</font color=red>
     
  8. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    FYI, a new rotor attached to a new(or used ) hub, really should be turned(cut).
     
  9. 79Jimmy

    79Jimmy 1/2 ton status

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    I agree you should still turn brand new drums and rotors, particularly rotors. I've seen very, very few run true out of the box. Personally I'd never change a bearing without a new, usually matched race. Being in aviation though I'm a bit anal.

    James








    79jimmy@home.com
     

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