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brake trouble

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by IAK5, Apr 30, 2005.

  1. IAK5

    IAK5 Registered Member

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    went with one ton axles but can not get brakes to work 4 wheel disc on truck replaced master with a 87 3/4 ton and a 2lb check valve in the rear but still no brakes pedle goes to the floor had it in two shops and still no brakes any help would be nice
     
  2. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    new or used master?
    why the 2lb check valve? only need them if master is lower than calipers or wheel cylinders.

    and if good master then air in the system. .

    does the pedel have anyting or just to the floor? and have you had someone pump the pedel and makesure the fluid is coming up from the holes in the master in the resivor? if not then no movement or bad seals in the master.
     
  3. IAK5

    IAK5 Registered Member

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    it is a new master and we have bled the pis out off the brakes the 2lb valve helped a little but the brakes go to the floor the truck will stop but the brakes are not strong if you hold the brake and give it a little gas the truck will move need better brakes for the triple stick doubler
     
  4. Smitty

    Smitty 1/2 ton status

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    Where are the bleeders located on the calipers? Are they at the very top of the caliper? How are you bleeding the brakes? Sometimes a power bleeder works when the pedal method doesn't work. Not too sure why you need the check valve...
     
  5. IAK5

    IAK5 Registered Member

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    the truck started out at no boundries 4x4 and recieved the one ton axles and they could not get the brakes to work now it is at des moines off road and they are having no better luck the ideal off the 2lb valve was it would hold a little presure at the rear and it did help a little at lest the truck will stop but the pedale still goes to the floor there has to be a way to fix it to many blazers have went to one ton axles all the bleders are at the top
     
  6. ntsqd

    ntsqd 1/2 ton status

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    I'm going to assume the front calipers are 3/4t or the two piston 1t calipers?
    Which rear calipers are they? The 3/4t D52 pad, or the so-called 'Metric' that uses the D154 pad?
    What is the bore size of the m/c?
     
  7. IAK5

    IAK5 Registered Member

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    the front are the two piston 1 ton and the rear i am not sure about it started out with brum brakes on the rear and it had no brakes i was told to go with disc in the rear and about 700 hundred more dollars still no brakes this brake problem has been going on for 5 months i just wont to go wheeling havent drove the truck in 14 months since we started the 1 ton build up we have spent 10,000 grand on the build up and cant use the truck and the wife is wearing me out im sure you guys know what im talking about
     
  8. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    is this a ford frt axle? and if so i dont think the gm master has the proper size to push the 2 extra frt pistons. the gm dana is 1 pistion only per side. who told you to go disk rear with no brakes to begin with? that problem should have been solved first. that is wrong in my opinion:mad: . and i used 1/2 ton calipers on the rear of my truck.
     
  9. IAK5

    IAK5 Registered Member

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    it is chevy duelly 60 with ford single outers and it was no boundries that said go with rear disc to fix the proublem
     
  10. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    why ford frt parts? i think the master doesnt have the volume to do the ford calipers. i run a big 1 ton and no problems with gm brakes. and if thay said to do disk rear before problem fixed thay were at falt. that was just throwing parts at the problem. not going to fix it. need to find the first problem and fix that first before other stuff is put on or you will never know where it is coming from .
     
  11. IAK5

    IAK5 Registered Member

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    i have no clue why they did that i paid good money for all this work i only get home every other week end maybe i should try the gm front calipers
     
  12. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    if you paid for the swap and thay supplyed all the parts then thay need to make it correct. but now that it has been somewhere else this might cause a problem.
     
  13. IAK5

    IAK5 Registered Member

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    i have no ideal why the used ford otters i just wont to get it fixed
     
  14. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    I think the first reply got to everything.

    1) You don't need the 2# residual pressure valve. Have them take it off and refund you the $$$ on it.
    2) Are the brake bleeders pointing up?
    3) Is the pushrod the correct length between the booster and master cylinder?
    4) Can you pump the peddle and get it to be hard?
    5) What year are the calipers from?
    6) What year is the master cylinder from?
     
  15. IAK5

    IAK5 Registered Member

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    we lived in texas when we started the build up and made several trips there to check on the truck and we where getting the run around so we bought a car trailer and brought the truck home to iowa where it is at des moines off road the guys up there are super nice and are really trying to help me they have been working on the truck very little money just becuase of what we are dealing with they said the have never seen anything like this
     
  16. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    o.k lets try this. get gm parts for frt and then remove 2lb valves. and check the masters push rod to see if its in there between the master and booster. and brakes should work good. then when all good drive it back to the first place and set parts on counter and say money back please . thay sould like a bunch of a$$ hats. i would never let a brake system get that bad with out finding out what is wrong. brakes are somthing you know or dont tuch them. just a opinion of mine do what you want.


    when working good thay will stop you on a dime and give change to you. my old truck was 1 ton brakes disk rear and 38 tires. 6500lb truck would stop quick and never a problem. if hit hard thay would lock up tires.
     
  17. IAK5

    IAK5 Registered Member

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    yup, we'll try the GM parts...too late to turn back now! it's only money! :D

    How far did your pedal go down when you hit the brake? just wanted to know what to look for when we get the problem "fixed".
     
  18. sweetk30

    sweetk30 professional hooker Premium Member

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    my setup was 1 ton and hydro boost. 60 frt with stock brakes. then 14 ff rear with 3/4 dick and 1/2 ton calipers. all this on rubber hoses. no porp valve just adjusteble regulator from willwood. when brakes are used it goes about 1/4 down and is working already. no need to go past 1/2 pedel. if panic stop thay will just lockup all 4 wheels. good luck to ya.:D
     

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