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Brakes Pulling

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Mr. Jimmy, Jun 5, 2002.

  1. Mr. Jimmy

    Mr. Jimmy Registered Member

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    I am trying to correct my 89 Jimmy front brake pull to the right, replaced both frt. calipers today and bled brakes. Now it is pulling worse than ever, also peddle feels softer than before.The vehicle has been lifted 6 inches, would this have any effect on it? this is scary when pulling a trailer. Any suggestions on a fix and bleeding brakes? Is there any other place I should be bleeding brake system other than 4 bleeders at wheels? Would shimming left caliper help situation?
    Keith.
     
  2. 78Blazer

    78Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    If you already replaced the calipers it is very possible that the brake hoses are also bad and need replaced them selves.
     
  3. Mr. Jimmy

    Mr. Jimmy Registered Member

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    The brake lines were also replaced with braided lines when the truck was lifted.
    Keith
     
  4. YtseJam

    YtseJam 1/2 ton status

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    The brake lines or brake hoses?
     
  5. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    caliper guide pins well lubed?
    what was pad wear like? equal on both pads on both sides?
     
  6. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    I had a pulling problem which turned out to be a missing inner brake pad (the guy I bought it from must have been drunk when he changed the pads). Anyway, before I plunked my money down I did some searching in this group and found some good information on eliminating brake related steering pull (not that I needed it).

    As I recall the most common problem was difficulty bleeding the system well which caused some brake pull. Their solution was to have them vacuum bled at a brake shop. Solved the problem. I don't know if one of those little hand vacuum pump dealies would work as well.

    You might also want to check the condition of the spring shackle bushings and also ensure that the steering arm, drag link, tie-rods etc. are tight.
     
  7. Blazinaire

    Blazinaire 1/2 ton status

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    My pulling problem dissappeared when I had my rotors turned. does it vibrate or pulse too?
     
  8. Mr. Jimmy

    Mr. Jimmy Registered Member

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    Brake hose's were replaced and caliper pins were cleaned and lubed, pad wear was also even.Has anyone had good luck with the hand pump type brake bleeders?Is there any where else that I should bleed other than the 4 wheels? Maybe a proportioning valve?
     
  9. kilroy

    kilroy Registered Member

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    I belive the proportioning valve only Works front to rear not side to side.
     
  10. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    The master cylinder is supposed to be bled when it's installed or 'bench bled' just before it's installed. Perhaps it also needs to be re-bled if you've let it run really low - I don't know tho.

    Check the chiltons or haynes manual for the procedure.
     
  11. 87superblaze

    87superblaze 1/2 ton status

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    Did you try to adjust your REAR brakes? If your driver side brake is not adjusted the same as your pass. side, it will pull hard.

    I have this problem with my 14 bolt. The self-adjuster is froze on the driver side so the brake will wear and eventually won't touch the drum = no braking from that side = Hard pull to right.
     
  12. rampage

    rampage 1/2 ton status

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    A leaking rear axle seal would also show the same symptoms as it not being adjusted correctly. Oil will get on the shoes and basically render that drum useless. Check the driver's side rear brake to see if the seal is leaking.
     
  13. Mr. Jimmy

    Mr. Jimmy Registered Member

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    I spoke with a tech. at Meineke brake, he told me that the brake hose on the left side was probably collapsed. I have swapped the left and right side brake hoses with no improvement. I will try the back brake adj. today.
    Thanks, Keith
     
  14. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    First and formost, make sure all the air is out of the system. Also, make sure all the tires are inflated evenly.


    Then you can zero in on the problem by procces of elimination.

    1- Alignment - Does it pull to the same side all the time, But pulls harder when the brakes are applied? If so, it could possibly be out-of alignment or tire related. Cross rotate the front tires (LF to RF / RF to LF) or cross rotate all tires, then redrive. Does the brake pull follow the tire? If-so, it could be a tire relatted pull. If it still pulling to the same side- continue diag.

    2- Front brakes pads - Are the brake pads After-Market? Compress both front caliper pistons and remove the brake pads. Cross the pads (install the left set on the right side, right set on the left side), reassemble and redrive. Did the brake pull follow the brake pad? If-so, replace the brake pads with G.M. parts. If it still pulls to the same side it will need to be diagnosed further.


    the list is a-bit long and I need to git to work. So try the above steps and let us know how it goes.
     
  15. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    A lot of good advice here already. I just have one more suggestion to throw out. If you have any junk behind the pads, it can take some of the compression and give you less braking force on that side. Get rid of any rust, dirt, leaves or fish that you may have picked up in mud holes. Take off your anti-squeal shims and that "anti-squeal" adhesive and see if that helps the problem. I have had older shims give me pull.

    Other than a pulsing pedal (which has ALWAYS been from warped front rotors) I don't think I've ever had a brake problem that wasn't either air in the system or a problem with the calipers.
     
  16. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Spongy pedal after *thorough* ( I went through 1/2 quart) bleeding is likely going to be the master cylinder if its old.

    Mine pulled badly to one side, the *rotor* had some kind of deposit on it, that gave the pad a poor surface to clamp on. Sanding it smooth by hand solved the problem entirely.
     
  17. Jed

    Jed Registered Member

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    For adjusting the back brakes, don't forget to try the easy way (if your auto adjusters aren't seized or full of mud): get up to speed (15mph?) in reverse and then apply the brakes firmly until you come to a complete stop. Go forward and stop. Repeat a few times.
     

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