Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

Brakes

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by bherring, May 4, 2002.

  1. bherring

    bherring Registered Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2000
    Posts:
    55
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    VA,USA
    I have multiple questions:

    1) Do you start with the closest or farthest wheel from the master cyl?

    2) The fronts (disc) bleed fine, but when I open the rear (drums) bleeder valve (or take it out), the pedal does not travel to the floor and fluid just slowly seeps out. Why?

    3) Could wheel cyl's be the cause of this? I can hear the shoes hitting the drum as my buddy pumps the pedal, but I can't get the air out of the rear lines.

    4) Is it ok to use my stock prop. valve with the 3/4 ton disc/drum setup?

    5) Chilton's manual said something about pushing a pin on the valve in order to properly bleed the brakes. Any exp. with that?

    6) Can you change the wheel cyl's on the 14ff without taking apart all the springs, clips, shoes, and stuff?

    Thanks for the help. -Beck.
     
  2. yeild2me

    yeild2me 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jan 7, 2001
    Posts:
    1,309
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    fayetteville, nc
    I have multiple answers (accuracy not guaranteed!)

    1. Although i have never really thought about it, it probably wouldnt hurt.

    2. This sounds like an occlusion of some sort i.e. crimped line, rusted lines/fittings or faulty p valve, or faulty master cylinder. i would start by tracing the lines from the M/C and at every fitting see if it will squirt fluid.

    3. I doubt the wheel cylinders are bad unless there is MASS corrosion inside, which is a possibility if the axle came from a yard.

    4. I use the stock one on my 89 and have had no probs.

    5. HMMMM, no never heard of that. But make sure the Chiltons is refering to YOUR truck and not the truck the axle came off of.

    6. Dang, i cant remember, its been about a year since i had mine apart, but i can tell you that taking all that crap off aint hard, and it will give you a chance to see what shape all the hardware is in and replace it PRN.

    I am sure that others will correct the above info if its wrong, but thats my take on it. Good luck rob
     
  3. woody9

    woody9 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    May 27, 2001
    Posts:
    602
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Howell, MI
    Here's what I know on it..
    1. Yes. Remember, if you have a split cyl, effectively you have 2 systems to bleed (front & rears). Normally it'd be your right side brakes). I normally start with rears and then do fronts.
    2. Sounds like a blocked/kinked line somewhere along the way. You might want to see if you open the system at the cyl/line connection (or flex line to axle line junction) if you have a stronger flow there when pumping. If you do, sounds like gucked up wheel cyl(s).
    3. See # 2. I agree with 'yeild' above on possible cause.
    4. I did on my 91 sub when converting to 14FF axle. One of the kit vendors confirmed my original stuff would work with the 14FF (mine has 13" drums btw.. not sure all of the 14's did)
    5. Can't remember, but could look it up tomorrow in the service manual (it's up in the shed...)
    6. Maybe... but without undoing the 'tops', you'd have the shoe pins pushing back in on the wheel cyls. Time you undo the tops, the bottoms have had a tendancy to 'fall away/apart' whenever I've done this. Not too big a deal, but try and do 1 side at a time so you have a handy reference. You might be able to leave the shoes mounted to backing plates however and not have them get tooo much in the way.

    hope this helps. You didn't say how 'high' the pedal is? (higher/lower than pre-bleeding?) When i convereted to 14FF, got the pedal back where it was prior to the swap, but somehow since i've gone to rear disk, i can't seem to get the pedal back to 'full height'. THinking M/C on mine and with 168K, maybe it's time....
     
  4. bherring

    bherring Registered Member

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2000
    Posts:
    55
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    VA,USA
    I replaced the shoes when I got the axles 2 years ago.....and now I've forgotten. I've since been told that you can simply pry the shoes apart and barely get to the wheel cyl. We shall see.

    If the pedal is changing without losing fluid, your master cyl is probably leaking internally and you're loosing pressure there.

    Thanks for the info. -Beck.
     

Share This Page