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break in engine on engine stand? Need advise

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by TX Mudder, Dec 13, 2001.

  1. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    I want to break in my engine on the engine stand.
    I've already figured that I would hook the radiator up and put a box fan in front of it.
    I would get a 2-gallon can of gas and run a 10 feet long fuel line from it to the fuel pump (to get gas away from the engine just in case.)
    My alternator has a wire that attaches to the back and then a two-wire hookup on the body. I don't know what all that does so I could just not use the alternator without any problem, right? Or what would I do to hook it up.
    Just run the starter from the battery and away we go, right?
    Can I hook up the hot-wire for the HEI straight from the battery?
    And is this thing going to stay on the enginestand without doing a twirl?
    I have a four-wheel engine stand, not one of those tippy 3-wheel ones. Would I have to do soemthing to stabilize it?
    Since it's my first rebuild, I want to break it in on the stand where I can tear into it if needed instead of having to pluck it from the truck after installing it.
    And since it's a 350 (internal balance) I don;t need to care that the flywheel isn;t on because it won;t matter, right?
    How loud is this thing going to be? I can install the exhaust manifolds pretty easily, but that's still straight exhaust. Will cheapie mufflers hook right up to the ends? I don't want to piss off the neighbors that bad.
    -- Mike

    <font color=blue> Married to a woman who understands the need for <font color=orange>Hugger Orange. [​IMG] <font color=blue>
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    You'll need a flex plate or flywheel or you won't be able to start it.

    How does the motor bolt to the engine stand? I figure it will tip over very easy. I've run a 455 on a pallet once and any throttle would roll the motor very hard to one side. I can't imagine having it up on a engine stand. It would torque itself over very easily.

    What kind of break-in were you planning on? Anything over idle would be very hard to control on an engine stand...

    <blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>

    Would I have to do soemthing to stabilize it?

    <hr></blockquote>
    Find a way to anchor it to the floor...

    The getting it running part is easy, hot wire it, forget the alternator and plumb the fuel safely. Exhaust...it's gonna be loud. I'd put headers on it and some mufflers clamped or tacked to the collectors. Then I'd make sure I wasn't going to die from fumes...

    Personally I'd install the motor in the truck...you'll spend as much time trying to jury-rig the engine stand as you would dropping the motor in your truck (which you'll have to do anyways.)

    Rene




    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
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  3. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    You want mufflers installed when you do the first startup. Without them, you can't hear if there are nasty noises coming from inside the engine. [​IMG]

    But, you don't want to start the engine on the engine stand. It wasn't designed for that. Notice how much the engine wiggles around when you are just wrenching on it? You'd probably end up watching in horror as your nice new engine flopped over on the floor. [​IMG] You can buy special stands for doing test starts on and engine, but they're several hundred dollars. Your other option is to take it to a shop that can bolt it onto their dyno for you. But again, not a cheap way to do it.

    <font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
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  4. BrianK5

    BrianK5 Registered Member

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    Sounds pretty crazy to me. I hardly had the guts to run open headers while breaking my engine in after I installed it IN MY CAR! I fired it up once, and after thinking I had lost my hearing and pissing off the neighbors, promptly hooked up the mufflers.
    I doubt the engine stand will be able to handle the twisting of the engine, I could be wrong, but it just doesn't sound safe.
    My advice is to install it in the truck, then start it up.

    Brian



    1985 K5 Blazer
     
  5. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

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    Hey, duh, I would need a flywheel on it to start it. I don't know what the hell I was thinking.
    No way a flywheel will fit on it with it on a stand.
    So I guess I'll quit thinking about that option.
    It just looks so nice on the stand with the carb on and everything - it just looks like it wants to run now.
    Thanks for the response - just wanted to bounce it off some people.
    -- Mike

    <font color=blue> Married to a woman who understands the need for <font color=orange>Hugger Orange. [​IMG] <font color=blue>
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I had the idea to use a Camaro or Firebird stub frame (front section of course) with the wheels on it. You could even leave the radiator on it, and you coud wheel it around if you locked the wheels in the straight ahead position. Then I decided why not just put the motor in the vehicle lol. Why hook everything up twice, and spend all the time making the stub frame idea work?

    Dorian
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  7. Oblin Goblin

    Oblin Goblin 1/2 ton status

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    I don't think you can break an engine in on the stand anyway. An engine needs to be under load to break it in properly.
     
  8. Calclips

    Calclips 1/2 ton status

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    What do you have to do to break an engine in? I know I had a friend that put a GM Goodwrench Crate in his truck and didn't break it in right.... he blew the motor up pretty fast. He was just lucky that he lied to GM good enough to cash in the warranty....
     
  9. pcorssmit

    pcorssmit 1/2 ton status

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    I think he was just wanting to break in the cam.

    Regardless, sounds like a pretty sketchy idea to me. By the time you get done jery rigging it could be in the truck. Its not like you're trying to stuff it into a Fiero or anything.

    Pete


    '83 K5, 350 TBI (ex 6.2), 700R4, NP208, Dana 60/14 bolt, 4.56s, Detroits, 3" lift, 15-39.5x15 TSLs
    '97 Dodge 2500 4x4 CC LB Sport, Cummins 5 spd
     

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