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Break-in question

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Russell, Feb 10, 2005.

  1. Russell

    Russell LB7 Tahoe Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Hey guys!

    I'm hoping to get my 355 broken in this weekend, but I have a question. I've often heard that you should not break an engine in on headers, but the only exhaust setup that I've got is dual pipes with headers. I've heard that either the engine runs too hot, or it just wrecks the finish or something. Is it gonna be a problem if a break my engine in on headers, and true duals?

    Also, what would you guys suggest for installing a harmonic balancer? I've heard not to pull it on with the crank bolt, and I cannot find a harmonic balancer installing tool for rent anywhere...
     
  2. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    1. I don't think it will do any damage to the new engine to use the headers, what i have heard is that it will discolor the finish of a set of headers. If yours are just black steel than I wouldn't worry about it, a nice set of nickle plated edelbrocks or something and they might come out rainbow colored after the break in.:o

    2. I've always used a bolt in the crank with a nut on the bolt thread and a big washer against the balancer. just tighten the nut and it sucks the balancer right on. I hae however broken the bolt once, but when it breaks it releases the pressure off the threads and the broken end threads right back out the crank. If there is a better way to getting a balancer on I'm sure someone will come along soon to tell us.:laugh:
     
  3. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Can't help on the balancer, borrowed my friends. I wouldn't do it, stripping the crank snout would suck. :)

    Speaking from personal experience, if the headers are coated, you will likely hurt the coating. I fired mine up on manifolds but didn't run it long enough apparently. Put the headers on, fired it up, they got red hot, discolored, which I'm sure hurt the finish.

    You can't find spare manifolds from anyone around you that you can borrow? I couldn't get one of the bolts in both the PS and DS manifolds I used, but it was such a short period of time, I didn't care, and they worked, I just didn't wait long enough.
     
  4. ss396

    ss396 Registered Member

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    RJF is right, the ceramic headers will be toast. Broke my engine in with the headers on. Those puppies got bright red and sure enough, screwed up the ceramic coating.

    The nice glossy finish is now dull, but at least they aren't rusting, boy I learned my lesson on that one.

    If you have time to order one, I am pretty sure Jeg's has a damper installation tool, not all that expensive. I have one and it works great.
     
  5. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    My headers are bare because of this... i left the manifolds at the place we did the swap. The coating probably would have come off anyway after a year or two(150 bucks)
     
  6. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    They make a tool just for installing a harmonic balancer so you don't rip the threads out of it.
     
  7. Russell

    Russell LB7 Tahoe Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Yeah, I know there is a tool, but I am unable to find one around here :confused:

    I do have a set of manifolds & y-pipe, but not a spare muffler. I'd like a full exhaust setup so I can hear what the engine is doing (ticking, taping, eating cam lobes, etc ;) ) The headers are already colored a nice surface rust :) I think I'll run it with the headers on there just so I can be sure they are totally dry before I strip and re-coat them.

    Another question -- Why do the headers get so hot during breakin, but no other time?
     
  8. bigyellowjimmy

    bigyellowjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    Thats a good question, Im wondering the same thing as I read this. I understand that as you break in new parts (rings and bearings) they will create friction which causes heat but ?????
     
  9. Russell

    Russell LB7 Tahoe Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    This engine only got a cam upgrade, nothing more... It is pretty much brand new though. Very recent .030 overbore (still has crosshatching on the cylinder bores) I just put a bigger cam in it in prep for the EFI.
     
  10. bigyellowjimmy

    bigyellowjimmy 1/2 ton status

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    In that case once you have the A/F mixture and timing adjusted your exhaust temps will be the same as ever.
     
  11. Russell

    Russell LB7 Tahoe Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I ain't touching that carb :P

    The minute I am done breaking the engine in, that carb / intake manifold is coming off and the TPI is going on.
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Forget about the pipes and muffler, just run it with the manifolds. You'll be able to hear whats going on. Loud yes, but you'll be able to hear.

    This is exactly how I did mine.
     
  13. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I have heard your engine is getting extremely hot internally because everything is rapidly wearing into each other.
     
  14. Ruthven13

    Ruthven13 1/2 ton status

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    As far as a damper tool, I couldn'tfind one anywhere either. So I made one. This is much easier if you have a welder. I found a long (10") piece of threaded rod that fits into the crank and two nuts that fit the rod, and two big (1 1/16" I think nuts. Threaded one small nut on the end of the rod to its depth. Then forced that nut inside one of the bigger nuts and then welded the whole mess together. Then I hammered the other small nut into the big one and tacked it into place not on the rod. The big nuts just make it easier to turn and more area on the washer used to push against the damper. Confused yet? I sure am!! But it worked perfectly for me. Just make sure to thread the rod far into the crank as not to pull out the threads!
     
  15. 4by4bygod

    4by4bygod 1/2 ton status

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    Hi All

    Are you guys talking about when headers get cherry red during break in? If so, that's just the timing not being set correctly yet., and it's worse if the cam wasn't installed with the dots lining up per instructions. What's happening is combustion occuring in the header tube because the valves aren't opening & closing when they're supposed to be.

    I'd get a degreed balancer if you haven't already, so when you set the timing you can read the scale, especially when you set the total timing, or you can use a vac guage if you don't want to spend the money.

    Tom
     
  16. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    Same here.
     
  17. coptezr

    coptezr 1/2 ton status

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    what i heard for an engine break in is take it easy on it for 500 miles on plain oil then change the oil then again at 3000 with synthetic if you want. I did it with mine and it runs strong.
     
  18. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    I heard the same but it was 250 instead of 500 but most likely because my motor was slightly broke in on a stand.
     
  19. Russell

    Russell LB7 Tahoe Status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    I plan to take it easy for the first two tanks of gas. I've got a 42 gallon tank, so I can probally go 400 miles or so on it, so I'll take it easy and go 800 miles before I give her a good workout.
     
  20. dirtwarrior17

    dirtwarrior17 Banned

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    don't forget to change the oil at somewhere around 300 or 400 miles.
     

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