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Breaking in the CRATE

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by high&liftedup, Jan 10, 2002.

  1. high&liftedup

    high&liftedup Registered Member

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    Happy New Year all.... Ok, My 350ci CRATE is just about ready to fire, NOW, WHAT IS THE BEST PROCEDURE ON 'BREAKING IN' THIS MOTOR....and what about oil changes on initial fire up etc......by the way, I threw in a rv comp cam and installed new edelb. Q-jet.....
    Thanks.................

    HE will always get you out of the mire clay!!!
     
  2. slider

    slider 1/2 ton status

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    First, you need to run the oil pump as to prime it. Use an old distributor or a priming tool, looks like a distributor housing to get oil circulating up to the top end of the motor. You should also be turning the crank slowly to make sure all the bearings get a good coat of oil, I prime a motor until is see oil out of the rockers. Do not dry start a motor without priming it. Put the distributor in with the motor on top dead center #1 cylinder. I fill my motor with anitfreeze-water through the block, where the thermostat goes that way I know the motor has coolant in it. when the block is full put the thermostat in then finish filling the radiator. Check everything over once more, fuel line clamps etc and try to start the motor. You might have to move the distributor to get it to fire up. Once running get the timing close and run the engine rpm rpm up to 1500 to 2000 rpm asap so you get oil on the cam. Do not screw around with other stuff as getting oil to the cam is important. Vary the engine speed a few hundred rpm as to change the oil spray pattern on the cam. Keep an eye on the coolant level as it will drop when the thermostat opens. Keep an eye out for oil leaks and an eye on the engine temp. If it goes too high shut it off let it cool down and start the process over. I get a fan and blow cool air on the radiator. I do not know if it helps but what the hell. Once run for 20 min and all looks good change the oil and filter. You will be amazed how much crap will be in the filter if you cut it open the other reason is metal and engine assy lube can clog a filter making it go into by pass mode so it is not getting filtered. I change the oil at 250, 500, then 1000 miles. Never use a synthetic or semi synthetic oil for engine break in. Regular old oil. Hopefully the crate motor mfg sent you some info. also. You can switch to synthetic or what ever at about 5000 miles or so. I have read various things about switching any earlier, my advice is wait until 5000 miles or more. I am sure others will add stuff to this. Last but not least do not beat on the new motor. Your first drive run it at various rpms to help seat the rings. Drive it like granny would for the first few thousand miles then have fun.
     
  3. Zepplin

    Zepplin 1/2 ton status

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    Go to the GM performance engine website. No sure of the addy but, I read a detailed description of the break in procedure there a while ago.


    74 Blazer
    Zepplin
    Check out my Blazer
    <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/zepplin1976>http://community.webshots.com/user/zepplin1976</a>
     
  4. 502Burban

    502Burban 1/2 ton status

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    Here's what GM says about breaking-in their crate engines: '73 GMC Suburban - 502DFI
     

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