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Breaking point.

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Paxx, Feb 10, 2004.

  1. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    At one point or another your set up might just become strong enough that you will risk damaging your t-case/tranny right? What is that point and would it be a good idea to set up a breaking point on your driveline? maybe the U-joint at the tcase side just a little weaker than the rest so it would break before damaging something expensive?

    Just curious /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
     
  2. Hossbaby50

    Hossbaby50 3/4 ton status

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    In my truck the weak points are the front axleshaft ujoints and shafts themselves (1/2ton). Next would be the driveshaft ujoints and locking hubs.

    I am going to have a driveshaft built for the back though with 1350's so my rear driveline is pretty stout with the 14bff back there. Front will always be the ujoints and axles. That is fine by me. Better then the R&P, locker, driveshaft, etc.

    Harley
     
  3. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    My idea is to not have anything break. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif I'm going to try my hardest to keep breakage to an absolute minimum.
     
  4. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    [ QUOTE ]
    At one point or another your set up might just become strong enough that you will risk damaging your t-case/tranny right? What is that point and would it be a good idea to set up a breaking point on your driveline? maybe the U-joint at the tcase side just a little weaker than the rest so it would break before damaging something expensive?

    Just curious /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]


    Yer pretty smart there, kid! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    With all the emphasis on beefier this, and beefier that....it's entirely possible that you could move the failure point of an axle to the ring & pinion!!! Not a fun trail repair if you ask me..... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

    There was an article in either Petersons 4W&OR or 4WHEELER that was called "Build It to Break" (the article is probably at least a year old) and it discussed your very question....it's smart to know the overall strengths of each component in a given system, and then deliberately undersize (slightly) whatever component is easiest/cheapest to replace to help avoid a catastrophic trail break.

    Anyway, it might be worth looking for if you want to see some additional ideas.



    .
     
  5. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    And of course the problem with that theory is shock load, which breaks even the stronger components, especially over time. I prefer to build to avoid breakage altogether.
     
  6. az-k5

    az-k5 1/2 ton status

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    I agree breakage avoidance is a great thing. There are ways of creating fuses in the system. I have an open D44 on 37's so traction is my fuse up front. A smarter driver can help a lot, and is probably the best bet.
     
  7. Paxx

    Paxx 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]


    Yer pretty smart there, kid! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif



    [/ QUOTE ]

    Well thank ya

    Even with the shock load you could still have that one weak link that will break when the shock occurs before it damages a major component though right? Having one slightly weaker u-joint and always keeping that one part for a spare would be a good idea I think.

    I also believe that no matter how bulletproof your drivetrain is you can always break something. Check with the boys at pirate for proof of that. It would just be better if that something wasn't worth $1000.

    And if you were to set up a weak link on your rides what would it be? Obviously something easy to repair on the trail like a u-joint but which would you set up to break?
     
  8. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    A u joint might seem cheap to break until it rips the bolts from the pinion yoke which would not be a fun trail repair. It could also break the yoke on the shaft, or the shaft could hit the ground and become damaged. Either way, it's a BAD situation to have a weak link.
     
  9. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Anytime you break something, the rest of the system on both sides WILL be shocked. It's just a fact of life. And yes, anything can be broken, but I refuse to "build it to break" which is just asking for more problems. I've heard several tell of blowing a stub and/or joint and loosting the Detroit from the shock. Warn hub fuses break far sooner, but I've heard tell of carnage resulting from them breaking too. Not only from shock load, but also from rolls caused by the sudden shift. Just ask Dan "DesertDueler" what can happen when you loose an axle at the wrong time. The result would be no different if it was an axle, or a "fuse". Oh, and it's gotta be lots of fun when your on the right line, and almost through a really nasty spot, and OOPS, your "fuse" blew throwing you off your line and into a roll or really bad place, plus you gotta fix the darn thing. No thanks...
     
  10. CyberSniper

    CyberSniper 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    I try to find the girliest universal joint I can at the pinion end of my driveshafts. It's by far the easiest universal to replace and now I carry spare driveshafts anyway. I've seen "catastrophic" failure of a driveshaft/universal at which sparks flew and the driveshaft banged around under the truck and off the rocks. It didn't ruin anything but the driveshaft.

    Of course, planning for a weak link can have its problems too. You could have it fail at an inopportune time but it sure would be nice to have the universal on the driveshaft grenade instead of an axleshaft universal. That's an hour job. However, you'll eventually get to the point where anything you run is going to be a catastrophic break if you don't make a driveshaft the weak link. Run 35 spline outers on a D60 and when it splatters chances are it'll ruin the spindle too. You could get to the point where the ring and pinion are the weak links. At which time you might as well start carrying a spare axle in the bed of your K5/pickup because it'll be faster to swap entire axles than fix what broke.

    Then again, according to the "hardcore" enthusiasts if you run anything less than ZFs or even Unimog portals you're a poseur.
     

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