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Breaks

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by BranndonC, Sep 18, 2002.

  1. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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    I have break pads from pep boys and want them installed (front) i called place and they want 90 to install my pads and machine my roder... but tried to talk me into 80 dollar pads? and another place said 225 Labor for installing my own pads cause he says with a 4wd you have to diss assemble the hubs or something like that ? which is correct ?
    i am going to pismo beach friday and don't have time before then to do them myself. So just to install my breaks what is a decent shop price? and my bro said if my roders don't feel warped to me while stopping then i don't have to get them machined, what do you all think.
     
  2. txbluethunder

    txbluethunder 1/2 ton status

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    do it yourself. i don't turn my rotors unless they or warped or could play music (badly scored). it takes ten minutes to change out pads.
     
  3. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    I agree with txbluethunder. Do it yourself. Take off your tire/rim. Unbolt the caliper - two bolts holding it on to mounting plate. Then, pop out the old pads and pop in the new ones. Bolt your caliper back on, and put the tire back on. That side's done. Do the next side. That's the whole job. Very simple - no special tools, no brake bleeding.
    Those prices for labor are rediculous.
    Don't get your rotors resurfaced unless you feel a shaking when you apply the brakes. (That means warped rotors)
     
  4. txbluethunder

    txbluethunder 1/2 ton status

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    only thing i'll add is that i like to clean the bolts and regrease them with axle grease before i put them back in.
     
  5. heavy4x4

    heavy4x4 1/2 ton status

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    Ok, I can go with that. But couldn't we maybe better that suggestion with hi-temp grease or anti-seize?!?!
     
  6. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    First: Wrong forum. NOT to be an ass about it, but this style of question belongs in the '73 and up forum. (try a search first, you'll probabley get a ton of info)

    Seccond: Buy some desent brake pads. G.M. replacement pads. (I could write a script about this, but I won't wast your time)

    Thrid: It is a simple job, you can complete it on your own.
    You will need a pry-bar, and a 3/8ths hex-bit.
    - Inspect and confirm normal brake wear. Both sides (left-vs-right) are worn evenly, or close to it. Inboard-vs-outboard brake pads are worn evenly, or close to it. Check for any uuseual grooves in the rotor. Also, take note of any brake pulastions before serviceing.
    - With the front end properly lifted and on securly settled on Jack-stands, with the park-brake appilied and the ign. key in the ACC position ( one small click back from "run")
    - Compress one piston at a time. By inserting the pry bar into the "window" of the brake caliper (only do this if you are replaceing the pads, as damage to the pads is possible). Compress the pistion all the way into the caliper bore (flush).
    - Remove the two caliper mounting bolts (3/8s-hex, 3/8ths allen)
    - Remove the bolts.
    - If the Brake pads are GM replacemet parts, they will come with the correct bushings/sleaves and lubricant needed to complete a proper brake job. Replace these parts now.
    - Install the in-board pad. The wear indicator should be in a position that would "hit" the rotor first before the brake-pad meterial, or in our case, pointing down.
    - Replace the out-board brake pad.
    - Reinstall the caliper, if the caliper does not fit over the rotor, the piston was not compressed fully.
    - Reassemble and PUMP the Brake pedal to compress the pistons as needed to set the pads
    - Complete 4 to 5, 30mph to 10mph stops. Appliing mild-pressure the the pedal. This will help seat the pads correctly, but will not completly seat the pads- so use caution as nececery.

    /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  7. BranndonC

    BranndonC 3/4 ton status

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  8. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    well...
    I'm kinda thinking "they" might tighten up a-bit around here, so I was kinda giveing you a heads-up. It seems to me that the "repair" type of questions are to go to thier proper forum. In this case the '73 and up forum.

    I might be totaly off-base or might have jumped the gun, but thats the way it's looking to me.

    No big-deal. Lots of help-full folks 'round here.
     
  9. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    I have had good luck with the Rayspestos Semi Metalic pads they sell at Pepgirls.
    I would recoment bleeding the brakes. Brakefulid should be changed about evey two years.
    $90 for turning and installing is a pretty fair deal if he will use you pads.
    Turning is you can lay a straight edge on the rotor and not see a bunch of ripples on the surface is not needed but a pads will seat better to a freashly turned rotor than it will to a polished smooth one and give you better stopping power. That said I skip it every other brake job on my trucks.
     

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