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Breather tubes

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by TheGeneral, Dec 30, 2001.

  1. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    Anyone see a reason why I can't run a breather tube from rear diff to location high in engine compartment and tie in all the otehr breather tubes along the way (ie the transfer case, transimission, and front diff tube) I think is a sound idea, just wanted to be sure that the transmission, transfer, diff can breath out same tube without effecting any of the units.

    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I don't see why not...all those components shouldn't really move that much air. Right now I have my rear diff vented into the gas door area...but I need to get all the vents run better. I may do what you're talking about.

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
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  3. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    You can do that or do like I plan to do and run it up into the gas tank filler. Should stay clean and dry in there. As far as the trans and everything else some place under the hood should be ok as long as they dont get clogged with mud. I am parobably going to run mine to the radiator support somewhere.

    See <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Waynes-Toy>Project Mighty Mouse</a> here.
    <font color=blue>Wayne<font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails<font color=blue>
     
  4. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    There was a guy here that ran all his vents into the glove box...great idea until you roll it and the inside of your truck fills with gear lube.[​IMG]

    Rene

    <font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
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  5. thatK30guy

    thatK30guy 1 ton status Premium Member

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    I read somewhere in an older magazine that someone had done exactly what you are talking about.

    They used those "T" fittings to connect the hoses as they started from the rearend and worked their way to the front. They simply cut the hose and connected a "T" fitting each time they came up to the t-case, tranny and the front dif.

    BTW, they topped off the hose with one of those K&amp;N mini breathers. [​IMG] They mounted it right on the firewall, up high by the booster.



    I'm not picking my nose...I'm just pointing at my brain!! [​IMG]

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  6. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    Got the K &amp; N breather, 25 ft of line, and 4 tees, and planned to do it today. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to cross any fluids between stuff. Highly unlikely unless flip, if thats the case, have more problems anyway. Going to run it up behind air cleaner on engine.

    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Yeah but, flipping is not that uncommon. I'm building my rig *expecting* to be upside down once in a while. As long as you don't "swap fluids" you can generally right the thing and drive out. 90W in the auto tranny would not be good, the other way would not be too bad. I don't think I would do that unless I could find a restrictor valve to put in each line before hitting the main line. Something that was porous and allows air to pass but would severely restrict fluids. Like someone said, you don't have to worry about allot of air movement.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  8. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    the fram clear plastic fuel filters G3 or G4 work the best and I bet are far cheaper then anything with the initials K&amp;N.
    i run them facing the direction that will allow me to see if they swallowed anything, at least the water will be filtered.
    my breathers for trans TC and Front dif go to brake booster.
    still have to seal the fuel tanks for the really deep stuff.

    another hint dont use those stupid threaded hose clamps.
    the spring loaded ones that come with a fuel filter actually work infinitely better.

    formerly 77chev
     
  9. DieselDan

    DieselDan 1/2 ton status

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    The HMMWV (and I assume Hummer) does exactly that. Hub gear boxes, differentials, xfer, trans are all vented to a main tube that runs to the air filter. Just don't be stupid like AMG and make the vent tube big enough not to clog easily. Plastic tube also is prone to kinking and melting. You know you've got a breather problem when you've got a air filter full of ATF!

    Real trucks don't have spark plugs!
     
  10. Pure Insanity

    Pure Insanity 1/2 ton status

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    I am planning to run a length of 1/2 in. metal conduit under my Blazer and weld in nipples to attach the hose to from the different places, then run the tube up the firewall behind the booster or breather. For the front I will just run hose from the diff to the conduit along the frame.

    If ya can't stop.......Smile as you go under! [​IMG]
    PIC of mine from flblazers site<a target="_blank" href=http://www.flblazer.alloffroad.com/photo3.html>
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  11. TheGeneral

    TheGeneral 1/2 ton status

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    Steve,
    Conduit, holy sh*&amp; now thats a breather tube. I have 3/8 I/D fuel line. Mike, already got the K &amp; N, came with air filter for TBI. What part # for fuel filter, I now most filters will allow air both ways, but will it allow oils? If not, that is the perfect solution to the flow of air, restrict oil.

    If you ain't hurt, you ain't playin' hard enough.

    The General
     
  12. CAROLINAK5

    CAROLINAK5 1/2 ton status

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    you see....i got my question answered before i got to ask it. i do however have another.

    why do my front and rear diff vent tubes have caps on them? is that a factory idea? or someone elses along my blazers life? STUPID.......but, what is the advantage to NOT having a cap on the vent lines?
    should i use fuel line or vacuum line?



    when all else fails..............HIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![​IMG]

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  13. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    The caps are factory and they help keep dirt out and reduce the chance of water contamination (although submerging the end will still cause problems). There is no advantage to not running them, just make sure they are not stopped up. There is no real pressure on those lines, any flexible line that won't break or kink, can stand the temp of the diff, and has the correct inside diameter should be fine.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  14. CAROLINAK5

    CAROLINAK5 1/2 ton status

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    THANKS. but why put a filter on the end if capping them is just as good? i'm not trying to be a smart a$$, i'm just curious. is there that much heat build up when 4-wheeling other than road driving?



    when all else fails..............HIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![​IMG]

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  15. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    "capped"
    the factory has little loose caps that allow some airflow.
    they are usually plugged solid if you dont spin them every oil change.
    what is on your truck?

    formerly 77chev
     
  16. 85m1009

    85m1009 1/2 ton status

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    I have all the vents in my truck ran together using 5/16'' line. The only thing to be careful about is the automatic tranny vent and make sure it does not get kinked. An auto vents pressure out the vent as the internal temp rises, if the vent is not adequate it will blow out somewhere, (ask me how I know, LOL!) I ran the vent up to the top of the firewall next to the brake booster and used one of the factory plastic caps. If water gets that high it just will not matter.


    <font color=green>Steve Frisbie</font color=green>
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  17. m j

    m j 1/2 ton status

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    or
    the price of a filter is so low, probably lower then buying a cap from the dealer.
    and
    saw it on a desert racer and it LOOKED SO COOL

    formerly 77chev
     
  18. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Sorry, when you said "not running them", I thought you meant to just take them out and leave it open, not a good idea. The filter is the same idea as the breather caps, but it would pretty much keep all the dirt out while still letting the vent breath. The breather caps mainly just prevent large stuff and splashed water from easily finding it's way inside. I think a filter would also be less likely to let in significant amounts of water, especially if the inlet were on the lower side when mounted so that any water that got in could drain back out.

    As far as heat, there is not a huge amount as long as things are working correctly. However, it is enough to cause the air inside to expand. If the air can't go out the vent, it causes pressure inside the diff that will cause leaks at the seals and gaskets. When the diff gets submerged, it will rapidly cool resulting in lower pressure inside which, if the vent intake gets submerged, can suck water into the diff.

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  19. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Oh, and just like with the little caps, you would need to periodically make sure it is not stopped up. I kinda like the "feed it into the inside of the air filter" idea. No filters or caps to clog and if something (tranny) starts puking up fluid you know it immediately by the spy movie smoke screen. [​IMG]

    Russ

    85 K30 CUCV, 350 TBI, TH400, 205, D60/C14, 4.56 Locked
    Some day: 4" lift, 44" tires, massive cutting, shorter wb and rear overhang.
     
  20. CAROLINAK5

    CAROLINAK5 1/2 ton status

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    i get the picture....thanks.



    when all else fails..............HIDE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!![​IMG]

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