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Broke bolt in the Crank HELP!!!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by Kyle89K5, Jun 10, 2002.

  1. Kyle89K5

    Kyle89K5 1/2 ton status

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    Here's the scoop. Blew a head gasket in the old truck a while back and decided to go ahead and tear the thing down. As I'm pulling it apart, things are looking PERFECT!!! I had one bearing on the crank that had a little groove in it, but even the bearing from the pistons look brand new. Not bad for a 200k mile motor. ANYWHO, things were going great till it came time to pull the bolts off the flywheel into the crank. Two of them gave me SERIOUS flack. Both rounded off and I broke 3 sockets trying to get them off. Took the mig out and tacked a little material back onto one of them and beat a socket onto it, got it off. Went to the next one feeling pretty good, but I slipped and tacked to bolt to the flywheel /forums/images/icons/blush.gif /forums/images/icons/mad.gif /forums/images/icons/mad.gif Now I've worked this thing over and ground it loose from the flywheel but I'm REAL scared that the bolt is gonna snap off.

    What's my options on this one?

    BTW, I was planning on a new flywheel anyway. No worries there, but the crank is still VERY useable.

    Thanks
     
  2. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    I'd drill as large a hole through it as possible and use a quality EZ-out. I've seen and used two different types. One has left hand threads and screws into the hole you drilled. I find this type breaks quite easily. The other type is a tapered 4 sided affair that you tap into the hole. The leading edge on each of the 4 sides is sharpened and digs into the edge of the hole. I haven't broke one of these yet and they usually work. Make sure to use the appropriate sized one for the size of the hole. Mine are stamped with minimum and maximum bolt holes they are used for.

    Worst case you'll have to try and drill the bolt out and re-tap it...

    rene
     
  3. Kyle89K5

    Kyle89K5 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks Rene. I'll give it a whirl tonight and see what happens.

    If I can get that bolt out, then I'm just about a week out of having the new and improved blazer back on the road....AGAIN!
     
  4. 70~K5

    70~K5 1/2 ton status

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    If you're going to have a machine shop do any work on the block/ crank then have them get the bolt out if it breaks.
     
  5. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

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    You can get a reverse spin drill bit. These actually work pretty good getting broken bolts out. The combination of the bolt heating up and the bit spinning counter clockwise usually does the trick. I think Harbour Freight sells the bits.
     
  6. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

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    Oh, if this doesn't work, at least you have your hole for the ez-out. /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  7. Kyle89K5

    Kyle89K5 1/2 ton status

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    LOL! Thanks Daniel. I'm off to the house to make this thing work. One way or another, the crank will be out of the block tonight. I'm tired of being blazer-less.

    BTW, I need to come see you sometime. I've GOT to check out your SYE kit on the 241 closer. Have your got the 1" body lift on your truck? Do you have the spring relocating blocks.

    Gee, that's about 200 ?'s real quick /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  8. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

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    Come on by, PM or email me and I will give you my home number.
    No 1" lift. I have the BDS 6" springs sitting on the dana 60 up front and 9" in back consisting of 4" ord shackle flip, 4" BDS springs, and the 1" axle relocating block that I fabbed. The block moves the rear axle back 1.5". I moved the front forward about 1" by drilling the spring perches and the top spring hold down plates. I need to post the pics of my fender trimming. I trimmed back to the front of my rock sliders. Then welded the bracket with the nut back on so I have an attachment point for my inner fender. Looks pretty good and I was able to keep the inner fender.
     

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