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BROKE my exh manifold stud flush in the head, can it be rep in vehicle?

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by foxman, Jan 21, 2004.

  1. foxman

    foxman 1/2 ton status

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    Title tells my troubles, I tried drilling into it with a 90 degree angle grinder, but made no progress. I just put the headers on now Since I can't tighten the bolt, I get the ticking leak under the hood, verry annoying after unloading all the $$$ on the exh system.

    The one I broke is as you would immagine, the hardest one to get to. it is the farthest one back on the drivers side. It's the stock manifold bolt. I'm thinking that if I can get away with buying a 90 degree drill it would still be cheaper than paying a local shop to do it. I would just drill and tap it... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    please tell me it's possible (while the engine is in the vehicle, Its my DD) and suggest tools if possible. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif


    Thanks,


    jeremy
     
  2. Mudzer

    Mudzer 1/2 ton status Author

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    This might sound nuts, but my Dad did this one time. I had a bolt break off in the block. We tried easyout's and broke them. Kept drilling and trying other methods. Well, he said "lets use a torch". I stood back, he fired up the oxy/acetelyne torch and explained "the block is harder than the bolt". He heated the bolt inside the threaded hole till it was cherry red. None of the block was glowing at all. With a quick burst of oxygen (wear goggles and protection) he blew the bolt, that was now liquid, out of the hole. I mean, we could see the threads perfectly! It took him just a few seconds to do this. We cleaned the threads with a tap and were good to go. Make sure not to get the block red or even glowing if you can keep from it. Once that oxygen blows onto molten metal, it will cut it.

    The bolt was softer, so it melted first and the oxygen blew it out.

    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  3. foxman

    foxman 1/2 ton status

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    I wish I had access to ox/accetl torch but, no resources... I was hoping someone knew weather or not it was possible to do it with the engine in the truck...

    Nice suggestion besides, never thought of that....



    Jeremy
     
  4. BlazerGuy

    BlazerGuy 3/4 ton status

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    That kinda makes me want to break a bolt off in the block on purpose just to try that out! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  5. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    [ QUOTE ]
    That kinda makes me want to break a bolt off in the block on purpose just to try that out! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Yeah, until you cut the side of the head or crack it, at which time it would suck.

    I'd probably try it though.
     
  6. wasted wages

    wasted wages 3/4 ton status

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    were you tightening or loosening the bolt when it broke?
    if it was frozen to the point the bolt was not turning in the threads then I second the torch. if the bolt was turning in the threads (not froze up)Then I would try an angle drill with a stubby "reverse twist" drill bit.
    The drill may bite into the bolt and unthread the broken stub.You could check with tool rental places or a local machine shop to rent the drill.most tool suppliers can supply reverse twist drill bits. Good Luck!!!
     
  7. rjfguitar

    rjfguitar 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    [ QUOTE ]
    This might sound nuts, but my Dad did this one time. I had a bolt break off in the block. We tried easyout's and broke them. Kept drilling and trying other methods. Well, he said "lets use a torch". I stood back, he fired up the oxy/acetelyne torch and explained "the block is harder than the bolt". He heated the bolt inside the threaded hole till it was cherry red. None of the block was glowing at all. With a quick burst of oxygen (wear goggles and protection) he blew the bolt, that was now liquid, out of the hole. I mean, we could see the threads perfectly! It took him just a few seconds to do this. We cleaned the threads with a tap and were good to go. Make sure not to get the block red or even glowing if you can keep from it. Once that oxygen blows onto molten metal, it will cut it.

    The bolt was softer, so it melted first and the oxygen blew it out.

    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ] Very interesting. Good info mudzer! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  8. BigDummy89K5

    BigDummy89K5 Registered Member Author

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    just maybe you could remove inner fender and use normal drill.[steering might be a problem]if not drill,heat,easyout,new bolt.firewall might cause problem,don't know.good luck /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  9. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Or you could skip this entire project, HOPE that the manifold to head bolts come out, and just replace the thing with a locally procured one.

    Maybe I'm spoiled, but I usually had a goodly amount of choices if I needed an exhaust manifold.
     
  10. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    My buddy swaers by this if there is just enough threads to catch a nut. He threads on the nut then rosette welds it to the broken off bolt. The heat does a number and he gets it out every time he said. Only works if you have enough bolt sticking out.

    My 88burb has one broke flush and it feel like I'll be snapping more when I tried to loosen. Just havn't had tome to mess with it but it's looking like it's going to be fun.
     
  11. mccomas

    mccomas 1/2 ton status

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    i know that a torch is the ticket for broken and stuck bolts but i would be a bit paranoid with a torch in this area. if you have the cash, i would go after the sexiest 90 degree drill i could find and give drilling another shot... and when its all done, you got a cool drill. foxman, i know that it does not help you but do you guys think it is worth the time to hit all the bolt areas with some penetrating fluid for about two weeks before you try to pull them off or are they just way too frozen with all the heat?
     
  12. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    If the oil can actually get into the threads, it can't hurt, right?

    I've heard of people going after the nuts and bolts on the exhaust system immediately after shutting the vehicle off, and having some luck that way. At least it's some heat for those without a torch.
     
  13. gravdigr

    gravdigr 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    This might sound nuts, but my Dad did this one time. I had a bolt break off in the block. We tried easyout's and broke them. Kept drilling and trying other methods. Well, he said "lets use a torch". I stood back, he fired up the oxy/acetelyne torch and explained "the block is harder than the bolt". He heated the bolt inside the threaded hole till it was cherry red. None of the block was glowing at all. With a quick burst of oxygen (wear goggles and protection) he blew the bolt, that was now liquid, out of the hole. I mean, we could see the threads perfectly! It took him just a few seconds to do this. We cleaned the threads with a tap and were good to go. Make sure not to get the block red or even glowing if you can keep from it. Once that oxygen blows onto molten metal, it will cut it.

    The bolt was softer, so it melted first and the oxygen blew it out.

    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

    [/ QUOTE ]

    Been there, done that. We had 3 out of the 10 engine block bolts on out tractor snap off in the block. Torched them out. The reason this works is because the bolts are steel and the block is cast iron. Cast iron has a higher melting point. It takes a small torch tip and all you do is keep the heat on the bolt and you'll blow it right out.

    Obviously this won't work if you have aluminum heads.
     
  14. 350350

    350350 1/2 ton status

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    I've done the torch thing above and it works but I'd practice elsewhere if you have anything you can 'learn' on. It's a fine line trying to melt a bolt out of threads!!!

    I've done the nut-welding thing too and it also works great usually...

    I've also done it more painfully... Get a small drill bit, reverse twist as mentioned above. You'll have to get a really good bit as you're drilling into a hard-assed bolt that's age hardened from heat. Drill a small hole first. Progress with larger drill bits and eventually the heat and twist will back the stud out of the threads.

    If you get to the bigger sizes and still no luck, you can always retap the bigger hole or use a helicoil.

    Be Patient! The worst thing you can do is break off a super-hard drill bit in the hole! Then you're really 'Screwed' /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif ...

    Good Luck!!!

    Paul 'X' /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     

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