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Broken Brake Bleeder Valve, quick fix?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by GaBnn3, Dec 8, 2005.

  1. GaBnn3

    GaBnn3 Registered Member

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    I put new rear brake lines in my '88 V-10 Suburban. The very rusted brake bleeder valve, on the rear axle, didn't want to turn, even after I squirted a bunch of WD-40 on it. I managed to get a small socket on it. You know the rest of the story. What do I do now?
     
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2005
  2. alf4444

    alf4444 1/2 ton status

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    I'm lazy so I would buy a new caliper:rolleyes:
     
  3. GaBnn3

    GaBnn3 Registered Member

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    I just edited my above post. This problem occurred on the rear axle, with drum brakes. The bleeder valve is on the back side of the backing plate. It looks like I'd have to replace the entire axle. I hope not.
     
  4. Cricket

    Cricket 3/4 ton status

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    Try an easy-out.
     
  5. mechted

    mechted 1 ton status Premium Member

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    at the worst, you would have to replace the wheel cylinder (should be about $10)
     
  6. spearchucker

    spearchucker 1/2 ton status

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    The bleeder screw fits into the wheel cylinder. You can replace the wheel cylinder for about $15. I forget if it unbolts from the inside of the backing plate or if you have to remove the wheel/drum.
     
  7. redneckdude

    redneckdude 1/2 ton status

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    wheel cylinders are cheap...like others have said, around 10$. 2 bolts hold it in and it might come out the back without taking the drum off but u will have to pull the drum off when u reinstall it to get the studs back in it that push the shoes.
     
  8. badfish4tail

    badfish4tail 1/2 ton status

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    I swapped out my front axle and have a broken bleeder on the caliper, what would you do for this other than replace the caliper?
     
  9. mechted

    mechted 1 ton status Premium Member

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    try an easy out, and pentrading oil
    if that doesnt work, drill it out, then rebuild it yourself or change it at the store... metal chips can get into main chamber, and they can cut the seals around the piston, so its best to rebuilt before you have a brake seal blow out when you REALLY need it
    btw, most stores wont take a caliper with a broken bleeder for core... but if you find the new guy, who doesnt know what to check...:wink1:
     
  10. badfish4tail

    badfish4tail 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks 4 the info
     
  11. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    You might get lucky with an easy out, but I have had ZERO luck doing it that way.

    If you do have to replace the wheel cylinder (again cheap):

    You'll have to pull the drums to get the old one out as it will not fit out the hole in the backing plate (unless it's rusted to hell), also the wheel cylinder has pressure on it from the shoe's springs, so its best to undo the brakes before removing the wheel cylinder bolts.

    It's a good excuse to pull the drum and check your brakes and axle seal(s) anyways. If you have trouble pulling the drum off (especially if a lip has worn in it), adjust your "self adjuster star wheel" to allow the shoes to move in towards the center of the axle and allow the drum to fall off. I forget which way is which (up or down) but it is usually which ever way is easier (as you are not fighting against the springs). You'll know your going the wrong way if the adjuster stops and you can't turn the drum. FWIW
     

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