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Broken driveshaft strap bolt in yoke!!

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by txbartman, Feb 23, 2003.

  1. txbartman

    txbartman 1/2 ton status

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    Okay, when attaching my new driveshaft, I snapped one of the strap bolts in the yoke. Being an old axle, I should have cleaned the holes with a tap first, but idn't. Now I am paying the price.

    In an effeort to remove the bolt, I snapped a Craftsman bolt extractor as well. This filled the hole back up nicely! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif Man are those two pieces hard. I have since snapped 2 drill bits, dulled several more, and snapped a grinder attachment for the dremel tool. Nothing is making any progress in these bolts.

    What do I do now? Do I need to remove the yoke to fix this? Do I simply need to replace the yoke (14b 1350 series = fairly inexpensive)? If so, is there anything special I need to do when removing it? Do I some how need to mark the nut to get it tightened back on the exact same as it is now? How do I remove the yoke ( I know remove the nut and pull it off, but is there anything special going on here)?

    HELP!
     
  2. Highlander

    Highlander 1/2 ton status

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    Damn that sucks.
    I know my 1350 yoke for my old 12b was like 90$ But didn't the 14b come with 1350's? If so you could get a used one.
    As for changing the yoke out I would mark the nut and use a torque wrench as well
     
  3. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    If you have a torch heat the busted EZ-out til it's red and then try drilling it after it cools. You could also try a center punch and try and shatter the remains of the EZ-out too.

    Rene
     
  4. SF87K5

    SF87K5 1/2 ton status

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    When I broke my yoke on my 14 B the junk yards would not sell just the yoke cuz they did not want to take it off a good axle. I called the dealer here in NC and they want $127.50 for one. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
    Your best bet would be to call the junk yards and se if you can buy a used one. But you might have to goto the dealer.
     
  5. Butch

    Butch 1/2 ton status

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    If any of the bolt is sticking out slide a bigger nut onto it and plug weld it to the remaing stud. While it is still hot try to unscrew it. If it is counter sunk then Rene has your answer unless you own a plasma. If you have a plasma you can burn the Ease Out with it and not hurt the stud or threads.
     
  6. Leadfoot

    Leadfoot 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Call Jesse at HighAngle. He should be able to give you a good price on a new one. You may be able to remove the the bits, extractor, bolt, etc. but who knows how good the threads will be. A new yoke would be cheap insurance, plus it won't have any grooves in it and should stay dry alot longer. From the looks of things, you are doing and going to do tougher trails and taco-ing a driveshaft because of an old worn out yoke is not worth it IMO.

    As far as installing the new yoke, you can mark the nut, but dropping the carrier (easy on the 14FF), and using an inch pound torque wrench to measure the rolling resistance (brought forth by the crush sleeve) is the only true way to correctly install the new yoke. Many people get "lucky" using the marked nut method on a new yoke. The only time using the marked nut method is when re-installing the existing yoke, and even then not the absolute correct way to do it.

    Hope this helps, and sorry to here that, stupid things like that suck big time when you are itching to get a rig back on the road.
     
  7. 79Beast

    79Beast 1/2 ton status

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    If you can somehow drill a hole through the yoke, you can just use a bolt with a nut on the back. A used (junkyard) yoke shouldn't be too hard to find. Also, you'll need a puller to get the yoke off.
     

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