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broken ezout bits please help

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 87project, Sep 16, 2002.

  1. 87project

    87project Registered Member

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    when i bought my 87 jimmy the previous owner had replaced the factory 10bolt rearend w/a 12bolt.one problem,3 bolts broken off (diff cover).got some ez out bits successfully removed one broken bolt,broke 2 of the &*$^#&^*& EZ OUT bits off in the broken bolts (one is the bottom bolt).got pissed off and stuck the cover back on.2 weeks later(after 4 wheel trip) it leaks again.Anyone have any idea what kind of drill bit i can drill thru the EZ OUT bit with?or what kind of shop i could take it to to have it retapped w/out dropping the rearend? /forums/images/icons/mad.gif Thanks for any help
     
  2. Blue85

    Blue85 Troll Premium Member

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    Well, I know that EZ-out bits are very hard, so it is hard to find a drill bit that will go through it. I think that the hard material is also brittle, which is why they tend to break. I would try to get the hardest drill bits I could find and give it a go and if it didn't work, get out the yellow pages and find a machine shop that could do it.
     
  3. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Grab a blue wrench and heat the EZ-out til it's red...once it cools drill the beotch out. Heating it will remove the temper...

    Rene
     
  4. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    If you know someone that can weld, get them to weld a nut over the broken bolt AND EZ-out. I had that happen to the steering limit on one of my D60 knuckles a while back. The concentrated heat will free the stuck bolt, and the nut will give you something to hold onto.

    Some things to think about. Welding through the hole of a nut that small is tough to get the penetration into the broken bolt/EZ-Out. The arc wants to jump to the nut and you’ll fill the hole before getting a good bite on the bolt. A thin jamb nut is better. In my case, the bolt was broken off almost perfectly flush (or even a little below) with the knuckle, very tough to weld a nut on. So, I just built up a bead on top of the broken bolt, welding the EZ-Out to the bolt hull in the process. When it cooled, the bolt which was frozen solid (enough to break off) came out silly easy with a vise grip. Concentrated heat does wonders to break something loose. On thing I should have done is put a brass washer on to keep stray arcs from welding the bolt to the knuckle. When I started the weld, I let the gun slip just a little and stitched the bolt to the knuckle. Once I could see, I corrected and built the bead. While it was cooling, I cut out the miss-arc with a dremel and voila!
     
  5. backyardbuilt

    backyardbuilt 1/2 ton status

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    I'm gonna try that when I get home in the morning good thing I saw this post I was gonna scrap the part I have the same problem with.
     
  6. backyardbuilt

    backyardbuilt 1/2 ton status

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    It worked You saved me from paying 50 for a new caliper did it exactly like you said. Thanks alot I love this site it is invaluable for the do it yourselfer.
     
  7. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Glad to help. /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif
     
  8. tori89k5

    tori89k5 1/2 ton status

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    There is a company that sells a drill bit that will drill thru your EZ out. Its called Rodman. Do a search on the internet, and let me know if you dont find them. I have their info at home. Ive had these bits for 4 years, and love them. They see nothing but abuse. Every year i go back to wear i bought them and they either sharpen or replace the worn out ones for free. They have a lifetime warrantee. Even if you break one.

    TORI
     
  9. RESTORE89

    RESTORE89 1/2 ton status

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    try a grinding bit on a dremel tool
    not an abrasive bit, but a little toothy thing like a dentist uses, and it may take a little while, but you should be able to remove most of the easy out and the bolt, and then try the next size up easy out. only try this if you do not have a welder.
    like they sid that concentrated heat works wonders.
     
  10. BIG STEVE

    BIG STEVE Registered Member

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    COBALT REAL ONES NOT THOSE BOGUS TIPED ONES VERY $$$
    OR HELL DONT BE SKEERD TO DRILL AND TAP ANOTHER HOLE OR 2
    BE CARFULL AND DONT BREAK THE TAP OFF. THINK YOU COULD HAVE THE FIRST 13 BOLT ON YOUR BLOCK.
    DONT ALWAYS HAVE TO BE PERFECT /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
    90 JIMMY 265 241 14 REAR 10 FRONT 410S 4INCH F&R 34/950S 350 TBI 12000 WARN NO HEAD LINER OR ISALATION IN BACK HOW CAN SOMTHING BE THAT COLD IN THE WINTER AND SO HOT IN THE SUMMER /forums/images/icons/shocked.gif
     
  11. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Well one more way to deal with it:
    I was trying to remove a broken bleeder on my front caliper and using a square EZ out it broke in the hole.
    Well I was cursing since it was sunday and I needed to finish the job to go on a trip. So I got tiny 1/32 drill bits and I started drilling holes around the ezout and then I got a small punch and started hitting on the edges of the EZ out in the holes going around and in 10 minutes the EZ out was poping out of the whole enough to grab it with pliers and take it out.
    If I had the welder back then I might have tried it but I didn't.
    As for the rest I kept drilling bigger hole untill I got the size closest to the size of the screw and then I chased the threads with a tap and Voila, just got a new bleeder screw.
     

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