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broken hubs?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Confederate9, Nov 28, 2001.

  1. Confederate9

    Confederate9 1/2 ton status

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    i have stock auto locking hubs, and im 90% sure that they are busted.
    is there a way to test this out?
    i have put it in 4wd, then jacked up the front axle and got out and tried to spin a tire and the other one didnt spin.
    im not sure if this is how its done, but any suggestions would be GREAT!

    <font color=red>K5: Because size DOES matter</font color=red>
    85 K5 4IN LIFT 35 GOOD YEAR WRANGLER MT/R, AMERICAN RACING WHEELS
     
  2. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    The other one wont spin unless you have lsd or a locker up front. You have to see if the drive shaft spins. Chock your rear tires, put the t case and tranny in gear and spin the front tires. If they don't spin that means your ok. If they spin chances are the hubs arent working.

    That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
    Jim
     
  3. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    I was thinking it but I didnt type it....... they won't spin bcos the rear driveshaft has the weight of the blazer on it. I'm gonna stop, I'm cornfusing myself!

    That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
    Jim
     
  4. Confederate9

    Confederate9 1/2 ton status

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    i did that
    would it make a differeance if i had the emergancy brake on?

    <font color=red>K5: Because size DOES matter</font color=red>
    85 K5 4IN LIFT 35 GOOD YEAR WRANGLER MT/R, AMERICAN RACING WHEELS
     
  5. bee32

    bee32 1/2 ton status

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    when you jack it up in the front put it in gear and see if they spin but be carful I did this once and it came off the jack. Have someon watching and slowly release the brakes both front tires should spin but like I said be careful.

    Brian
    83 K-5 4" on 35's
     
  6. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    you could jack up all 4 corners and not worry about it coming off the jacks too. That way you start it up and put the tranny in gear and walk around and look at the front to see if its working.

    That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
    Jim
     
  7. bee32

    bee32 1/2 ton status

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    I like that idea. Alot better than mine.Never even thaught about doing that. God whata redneck I am.

    Brian
    83 K-5 4" on 35's
     
  8. jimmyjack

    jimmyjack 1/2 ton status

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    I got lucky and had my neighbors jackstands as well as mine otherwise it would've never happened.

    That jeep thing? Yah I understand it....... Like my Blazer? <a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5>http://community.webshots.com/user/blazerk5</a>
    Jim
     
  9. hammer

    hammer 1/2 ton status

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    I got smart 2 sets of short jack stands and 2 sets of large jack stands for changing axles or tranny. local truckload sale small $10 pair, large $18 pair. They have come in real handy all 8 jackstands at the same time.
    When my auto hubs broke it made a hell of a load noise and them started grinding, So it would seem like you would know if they were blown
     
  10. Burbinator

    Burbinator 1/2 ton status

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    Sounds like an awful lot of work to verify working or non-working junk.

    Do yourself a HUGE favor and get some good manuals (Warn or Superwinch), 15 minutes of your time, about $70 and 86 those autos. And no, you won't need a conversion kit, that's only for full-time NP203 trucks.

    I did this on my '91 Suburban and have never looked back...

    The learning curve is a toll road...ride with someone who has already paid!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://photos.yahoo.com/abshort1>U.S.S. Nimitz II</a>
     
  11. Executioner

    Executioner 1/2 ton status

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    Are you sure about the conversion kit ?
    Some call the locking nuts, adjusting nuts, and the lock washer a conversion kit !
     
  12. GONZO2

    GONZO2 1/2 ton status

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    when the auto hubs on mine went you could hear clicking noise from the front of the truck when driveing around. also started giving a bunch of problems going into and out of 4wd for a few months prior to the noise starting.

    <font color=blue>85 blazer</font color=blue> 4" lift, 35" pro comp mt, locked out back
    <font color=blue>88 blazer</font color=blue>mostly stock
    <font color=blue>99 30th ann. TA</font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>79 TA</font color=blue>
     
  13. Burbinator

    Burbinator 1/2 ton status

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    Yes, I am sure.



    The learning curve is a toll road...ride with someone who has already paid!
    <a target="_blank" href=http://photos.yahoo.com/abshort1>U.S.S. Nimitz II</a><P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by Burbinator on 11/30/01 03:53 PM.</FONT></P>
     
  14. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    I 2nd getting the manuals, losing the autos, and YOU DON'T NEED A CONVERSION KIT.

    I recommend the Warn hubs. I payed $63 for mine, shipped to my door from Carparts.com. Probably the best mod I did to my truck. I did that when my truck still rode on 31x10.50 all terrain tires.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  15. Thunder

    Thunder 3/4 ton status

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    If your auto hubs are going bad you will know it . They make all kind of noise, clicking, grinding, jerks It is real obvious. They like to engage and disengage while driving down the road. If in doubt just replace them with manuals. new autos are very expensive. rebuilding the auto hubs does not seem to work for very long.

    About the conversion kit issue. Besides the full time to part time conversion kit for the transfer case. There is also a conversion kit for the hubs. This kit is needed if you have the three bolt type of auto hubs. (most auto hubs are the 5 bolt kind and do not need the kit) The hub kit is for the spindle and containes new nuts, washers and stuff

    <a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Thunders-Blaze>http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Thunders-Blaze</a>
    <font color=blue>NEVADA: Where the pavement ends, and the West begins.</font color=blue>
     
  16. taterblazer

    taterblazer 1/2 ton status

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    Just take them down to the spindle nut, spindle washer with holes, and the spindle lock nut. Don't need anything else in there. It's an easy(relatively) easy swap. Makes it so much easier to do bearings and u-joints. The autos are a pain in the ass to work with due to the heavy spring you have to pop on and off.
     

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