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Broken teeth on my flexplate. What to do?

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by bigerik, Apr 2, 2001.

  1. bigerik

    bigerik 1/2 ton status

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    I got a bad situation. I just put all the money I would have for a long while into truck upgrades, and now I see that I am missing a few teeth in the flexplate where it stops (at the starter). This is not a fun situation when it's time for starting the truck (I had to turn engine, made me late to work). I happen to have a new GM flexplate, but I don't feel mechanically inclined enough to lower TH400/NP208 myself (nor do I have a tranny jack). I asked some mechanics and they all insisted that the tranny must be lowered (or at least pulled back on threaded studs) in order to remove and replace flexplate. This is just bad timing financially. Does anybody know a mechanic in the Bay Area (I live 60 min. North of San Francisco) that could R & R a flexplate without lowering the tranny? I read on here that it was possible, but the professional mechanics I tried to hire to do so said, "Not possible." Also, isn't this hard on my starter drive gear? Maybe I could just carry a 1" wrench and live with it--kind of an extra theft deterrent! I think this would ruin the drive gear on the starter. What would you do? If I had the money, I would put in a performance torque converter while I was in there, so maybe I could wait and save up. It's the black truck at <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bigerik.coloradoK5.com>http://www.bigerik.coloradoK5.com</A>.
     
  2. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    The only way I know that it is possible by not lowering the tranny is to move the engine. Or pull the engine. With the converter in there I don't think there is enough room to get at the bolts for the flexplate because they bolt to the crank. If someone has done it without moving the trans or the engine it would be news to me because I would say it is impossible without moving one or the other.

    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://jamonline.homestead.com/fromthegroundupK54x4/89Jimmy.html>http://jamonline.homestead.com/fromthegroundupK54x4/89Jimmy.html</A>
    <font color=blue>Happy Trails[​IMG]</font color=blue>
    <font color=blue>Wayne</font color=blue>
     
  3. bigerik

    bigerik 1/2 ton status

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    That's what I thought. I guess I can start saving for that performance convertor now. I would probably get a low stall/towing type convertor (such as a B & M Traveller) in search of low rpm torque. I think they're about $90. The convertor that's in there now is working fine, however. I'm a UPS driver and I have always wondered why I deliver so many torque convertors--they must be the most common part I deliver! Maybe it just appears that way because they are so obvious, or maybe it's because auto trannies suck!
     
  4. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Big, sorry to here of your troubles. Yes you could carry a breaker bar & socket to move your motor when it hit the spot but what a pain! It will screw up your starter for sure.
    I know it doesn't sound fun but you will need to drop the tranny. There is a slight chance that you could move it back far enough to pull the flywheel but I dout it. I know it sounds hard but you need to start somewhere and you can get a lot of help here on what to do. It's really not that bad with an automatic. You can rent a tranny jack or by a friend some beer to help. They don't wieght that much. You will still need to buy some fluids & lock-tight. I'd go for it......

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]<font color=red>Rid'in High In My K5[​IMG]
     
  5. DMK

    DMK 1/2 ton status

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    Agree with wayne. Must pull engine or remove trans.
     
  6. 87 mid canada k5

    87 mid canada k5 1/2 ton status

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    Can't help with a mechanic, but if you do a search on 'ring gear change' I got a few replies , check out the last one by bablazer73. Make sure to click on all posts, it dates back a few months.

    Denis
     
  7. Storm Trooper

    Storm Trooper 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Don't even think about pulling the motor! The touque inverter bolts to the flywheel / flexplate that you need to replace not the crank. The flywheel bolts to the crank. You could change it out in a day (maybe a long day with out the knowledge).

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]<font color=red>Rid'in High In My K5[​IMG]
     
  8. Waxer

    Waxer 1/2 ton status Author

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    You CAN do it by unbolting the tranny and torque converter bolts and sliding the tranny/tcase backward. You'll have to unbolt the crossmember obviously and linkage but thats not a big deal. I know cause I DID IT. Replaced my flex plate in the same fashion and it took a full day. Remember to use locktite on the flexplate to crank bolts. Directions will say to replace the bolts but I didnt and just used locktite. Hope this helps.
     
  9. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    You don't necessarly have to "drop" the trans, but you will have to move it. I have done two of them like this. Get a big, at least 2" wide, ratachet strap to support the trans/x-fer case and hook the ends in the frame. Now you can slide it as necessary. It takes two people and a floor jack to do it this way, but it is a lot easier than pulling the whole mess out.
    Some tips: Remove your driveshafts first. If you can remove your trans tunnel (some bolt in, some don't) you will have a lot more room to work. If you have a 203 take the shifter off, if you have 205 don't worry about it, I haven't done a 208. Get your flex plate from the local supply house if they sell to the public, that saved me $90.
    BTW, I was making fun of my buddy about grinding his up. About six months later my starter bolts worked loose and I tore up my flexplate and starter. Thats how I ended up chaning two, with his help, of course.

    Jim '80 GMC
    Freedom First!
    <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com>http://www.bigjbear.coloradok5.com</A>
     

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