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Build your own Anti-Wrap/Traction Bar---PICS

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by SCOOBYDANNN, Aug 29, 2006.

  1. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    Ok folks, today we are going to build a Traction bar/Anti Wrap bar (or what ever else you would like to call it.)

    Over all I spent
    $60 for Ruffstuff specialties traction bar mount
    $40 for Polyperformance Flex RE joint
    $10 for 5' of 1 3/4 x .120 tubing
    $10 for one more bushing
    and some time.

    Step

    1) Purchase material
    __A) Anti-wrap/Traction bar bracket from
    ____a)Ruffstuff specialties (one of three ways)[​IMG]http://http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=24?osCsid=ddab742f8693350db3570f73747c710c
    ____b) Off Road Design [​IMG]
    http://http://www.offroaddesign.com/catalog/bushingassemblies.htm
    ____c) RE Flex joint from www.polyperformance.com
    ______a1)
    2) Clean garage

    [​IMG]

    3) Mock up brackets ( i didn't use all of these brackets)

    [​IMG]

    (I did have to use 1/4" spacers on both sides of the RE joint to make up for the difference of the bushing.)
    [​IMG]

    4) tack weld axle brackets to axle (DO NOT finish weld them as you will need to adjust them for the final fitting.

    [​IMG]

    5) Place crossmember attachment point (varies (sp?) from all trucks and applications.)

    [​IMG]

    6)Attach shackle (every truck varies) to RE joint/bushing/heim

    [​IMG]

    7) Connect RE joint/bushing/heim to lower axle mount via. desired tubing. I use 1 3/4 x 0.120.

    [​IMG]

    8)adjust lower mount to be parallel to driveshaft by rotating axle mount.
    [​IMG]

    9)Connect upper axle mount to highest point possible on lower tubing.

    [​IMG]

    10)Paint and show off to fellow CK5ers so they can do the same.:D

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    enjoy

    Dan
    Sun Desert Offroad
     
  2. 02turbogixxer

    02turbogixxer Registered Member

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  3. muddybuddy

    muddybuddy 3/4 ton status

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    i need to make one for mine as well. looks good
     
  4. wayne

    wayne 3/4 ton status

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    Nice job. Is that a 4" shackel?
     
  5. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    not worried about terminating the upper link into the lower so far from the joint? I know I've seen folks before post failed bars that did the samething with thicker tubing.

    Boy it seems like I always have criticism huh?

    It looks damn good otherwise, and either way its gonna work great.
     
  6. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    x2... 0.120 wall seems mighty thin. For this app I'd want 0.250 and I'd probably put "side plate" gussets over the entire length out of 1/8" plate or something too.

    j
     
  7. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    yup

    i am kinda worried but i had progressed too far on my last peice of tubing to change direction. we'll see how it works. If it fails--build it again

    I love criticism. It helps me and others learn--I can either learn from the mistakes or back up the design. In this case I don't know what will happen, but I guarntee if it fails I'll let everyone know.
     
  8. diesel4me

    diesel4me 1 ton status Premium Member

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    A thought...

    You could beef up the tubing by using 1/4" thick angle iron welded along its bottom...
    like this... V

    I like the design..it appears the tubes might help protect the driveshaft from rocks while your scraping over them too!..:crazy:
     
  9. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    good point on the driveshaft thing.

    glad you like the criticism I usually feel people take me as too much of an asshole in those situations, haha.
     
  10. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    Nice!

    The only concern that I would have is rotating the axle tube in the housing under torque. Seen it happen a few times. Maybe bracing over to the pumpkin would be a good idea.
     
  11. SCOOBYDANNN

    SCOOBYDANNN 1/2 ton status

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    I was definately thinking about that, but not too sure how to execute it. Any ideas?

    I was thinking of throwing a bead where the tube meets the diff but don't know if that would hurt it or help it seeing as how the diff is cast. I have seen it done before but it dosn't make it right.
     
  12. 1977k5

    1977k5 3/4 ton status Vendor

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    The diff is cast steel. You can weld it if you preheat it.
     
  13. sled_dog

    sled_dog 1 ton status

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    diff is cast iron. You can weld to it, and it will help, but its not going to be the strongest thing ever. Pre and post heating will be necessary for a GOOD weld. Something like a truss tieing both tubes and the pinion support ogether would be THE way to go, but its expensive and seeing as you have that setup for the traction bar, there is no reason for it. I'd ask a bit how folks have welded around the tubes then do that. I can't speak on it, I've never done it.
     
  14. Sandman

    Sandman 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yeah I would at least weld the tube. It couldnt hurt at least.

    I have seen in one instance where it turned on a welded tube but it could have been a bad weld or who knows.

    Maybe brace off of the mount to the pumpkin a bit?

    That traction bar looks great and I plan on building one just like it this fall. :D
     
  15. FOR MUD

    FOR MUD 1/2 ton status Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Hey Sled Dog there are two kinds of criticism , one is the constructive type and the other distructive . From what I've seen of yours they have all been constructive and if other person can't see that then they are the asshole not you .
     
  16. DavidB

    DavidB 1/2 ton status

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    Does anyone know for sure if it's cast iron or cast steel?
     
  17. broncoman6524

    broncoman6524 1/2 ton status

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    is it normal to do only 1? from what ive seen/heard is that you should run 2...
     
  18. DavidB

    DavidB 1/2 ton status

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    2 might tend to impede flex. 1 is good if it's strong enough I think.

    You're probably thinking about the drag racing, sled pulling, or wannabe traction bars - put on to look cool (if you think that's cool :rolleyes: ) and make up for too much block lift.
     
  19. broncoman6524

    broncoman6524 1/2 ton status

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    k thats what i thought, and ya i was thinking about drag racing, adn mud racing.
     
  20. 1BEATK5

    1BEATK5 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    hey scooby, i noticed that you ran both your exhaust pipes down the driver's side into one flowmaster. did you route the rt side around the oil pan sump, or under the trans? What kind of manifold or header design do you have?
    I have a 350/203/205 combo with a 2" up on the case. and now my exhaust is compltely hacked on the rt side to make it clear the shifters and the 3" front d-line. so I was thinking about some street rod headers that dump straight down and then routing the rt pipe around the sump on the oil pan for clearance reasons
     

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