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Building a 383

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 78Blazer, Jul 29, 2001.

  1. 78Blazer

    78Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I am thinking of building a 383 and want to start collecting some parts for it. What all am I gonna need to do this? Also what kind of machineing has to be done to the block?



    Scott
    78blazer
     
  2. Ryan B.

    Ryan B. 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.speedomotive.com/Stroker%20Kits.htm>http://www.speedomotive.com/Stroker%20Kits.htm</a>
    They have shortblocks unassembled as well as assembled for around $300 more. +block and machining... Pretty good prices.
    Longblocks and Completes also.
     
  3. Twiz

    Twiz 1/2 ton status

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    Lunati has a 383 kit for $1600;
    - 4.040 forged pistons, moly rings, 5.7" rod, nodular cast crank, bearings.

    Summits kit is $1,200;
    - Keith Black (hypereutecic ?) pistons, Summit stage II 5.7 rods, sealed power rings, bearings, gaskets, oil pump. New cast crank.

    Some of the "kits" are externaly balanced and would need to use a 400 balancer and flexplate/fly wheel. They also say the block would need to be clearenced around the cam shaft. Machine shops should know how to do that.

    I think if I was to go with a 383 and had a solid rebuildable block to start with. I would probably go with a kit that had ;
    -Hypereutectic pistons- I've heard nothing but good things about hyperereutectic pistons. Stronger than cast, lighter then forged w/o cold piston slap of the forged syles.
    -Best rods money can buy (to a limit) defenetly 5.7" long
    -Cast cranks are plenty strong enuff for a wheeler (I.M.O.)
    -Internaly balanced would be a plus but externaly balanced would be O.K. too

    If I didn't have a block to start with. I'd get a crate engine- there are allot og great deals on 383 crate engines out there.
    (keep an eye out for G.M.'s H/T 383 crate that might be comeing out soon)


    Twiztid
     
  4. Andreas

    Andreas 1/2 ton status

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    The clearence issue around the cam is typically when using GM´s 5.7" rods. The head of the rodbolt can hit the cam and that would in all cases mean bye-bye 383. Rods like Eagle or Scat uses different kinds of rodbolts, so the problem is usually eliminated. Personally I´d look for a good 400 before planning on a 383.

    /Andreas

    406cui of pure sh*t[​IMG]
     
  5. morphed86k10

    morphed86k10 1/2 ton status

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    When my friend built his 383 he ran into the cam clearance issue. After installing the cam he checked to make sure for proper clearance when rotating...thunk. The company (I think it was Comp Cams) didn't ask if it was for a 383 and made a large base cam. He had to order a small base cam and it cleared with no problems.
     
  6. CaptCrunch

    CaptCrunch 1/2 ton status

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    Well I say go w/ a nice shortblock unless you have a hookup in the machining industry or can do it yourself. The Machine work alone will run you quite a bit and just getting a shortblock would be cheaper in the long run.

    Otherwise you could start getting parts and try to find a good block to use. Scat, Cat, Cola, Eagle, Crower, and Lunati all have some top notch bottom end parts.

    -Mikey
    1987 Chevy K5 Blazer- 350 TBI
    <a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm>http://www.geocities.com/milnerlives_2000/blazer.htm</a>
     

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