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Building a Trailer, how-to?

Discussion in 'Tow & Trailer' started by skratch, Feb 20, 2004.

  1. skratch

    skratch 1/2 ton status

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    A friend of mine has a nice 86 2wd diesel (blown engine) that he is going to be parting out at his shop and he said I could have the bed, frame, and axle. It's not the staightest bed in the world but it looks like it would make a great trailer.
    I'm wondering how hard it is to take something like this and build a trailer.
    And any pointers would be greatly appreciated too.
    Thanks
     
  2. chevyracing

    chevyracing 1/2 ton status

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    Take the cab off. Cut the frame about 5 feet in front of the bed off. Relief cut the inside flange of the frame about 6 inches in front of the bed. Bend the rails so they meet in the center. Weld a Bulldog hitch on. Wire it. and Badda Bing, trailer.

    John
     
  3. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    my advice is this...
    do what the other guy said, along with taking and making it a spring under setup. this will lower your load heigh fo the trailer, and you could remove a leaf or two and keepthe springs the same rate.

    also, keep the shocks on it, you wont regret that. even if they dont work so well.
    grant
     
  4. u2slow

    u2slow 1/2 ton status

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    [ QUOTE ]
    along with taking and making it a spring under setup. this will lower your load heigh fo the trailer.


    [/ QUOTE ]

    I don't suggest spring-under with the frame bending technique. The frame under the cab (that you relieve and bend together) already drops significantly. My trailer (done this way) with the top of the tongue welded flush with the top of the frame rails sits dead level behind my 2wd Burb w/ stock receiver hitch. If it were spring-under I'd estimate 5-6" lower ride height with a nasty backward rake.

    I imagine spring under would work well if you built your own tongue out of straight c-channel or box tube /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
     
  5. Seventy4Blazer

    Seventy4Blazer 3/4 ton status

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    spring under would drop it about 8 inches. weldign and bracing the frame up corectly with the tounge installed on top of the frame will give ya about 4 inches, then a drop hitch would give ya the rest. in the end, its well worth it for the ride it will have and the ease of loading.
    Grant
     
  6. skratch

    skratch 1/2 ton status

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    Thanks for all the advice so far guys.
    I'm kinda looking to build this so I can get it off road too behind my Burb, so I'm not sure about the spring under idea, if it was gonna be on the road primarily then that would be best I think.
    After talking to my buddy with the truck we may actually build a cage on it too, with a removable rear cross bar so I can use it for a shelter and still haul tall items if need be.

    Time to break out the tools I guess /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif
    Maybe I can have this by next winter [​IMG]
     
  7. bad_bo_ti

    bad_bo_ti 1/2 ton status

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    {HIJACK} what kind of weight can these types of trailers handle, i realize that one could get a half ton 3/4 and 1 ton so what is the wieght differences there. i am thinking of doing on to haul gravel and such in if i can find one. thanks chris {HIJACK OVER}
     
  8. u2slow

    u2slow 1/2 ton status

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    Damn these brochures are great /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

    http://brochures.slosh.com/1977/gmc4us6.jpg

    The max axle rating for the 14bFF is 7500lbs. The 12-bolt is 4000lbs. Can only guess at the capacity of the 10-bolt and 14bSF /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

    I'm sure the brakes play a role in the rated capacity WHICH is something you probably won't have with one of these trailers /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

    Worth a check of the towing regulations in your area. From purely a mechanical standpoint, I'd make sure the the weight of the trailer (and its payload) doesn't exceed your GVWR.

    Make sure you install some kind of jackstand front AND rear if you ever plan to unhitch with a load of gravel still onboard.

    More on the offroad trailer idea...

    A pintle hitch is good for offroad - it can take more twist and breakover/dip action than a regaular ball hitch. Some of those old 6x6's even had the pintle installed similar to a hub/spindle arrangement so it could adjust for especially twisty terrain.

    EDIT: An old Eaton full-floater makes a strong, light trailer axle. Throw away the drums and backing plates. Sell the third member. Cut the shafts off at the flange, and bolt the flanges back on. Fab a plate to replace the third member. Fill 'er up with oil. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif For extra ground clearance, rotate the housing so the plated-off side faces the ground. /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif
     
  9. skratch

    skratch 1/2 ton status

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    Hey now your talking!
    I like the idea of the eaton rear end, but I think some guys would have my head for doing that.
    I'll start with the 10 bolt under it now, but eventually would like to have a 14FF under it that I can shave, with the heavier springs.
    I was planning on going the pintle hitch route, stick the ring on the trailer and get a reciever that has the pintle/ball combo for the rig.
    I've tried to tink of a way to get the pintle hitch on the truck with the rotating mount like the military rigs, but have been hard pressed to figure out a way to do that yet.
     

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