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Building my own 383

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by MudbogAD, Sep 8, 2002.

  1. MudbogAD

    MudbogAD 1/2 ton status

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    I'm going to start bulding a 383 stroker to replace my existing 350. I got a hold of another 350 so I can build it while I continue to drive my truck.

    I need some suggestions on where to purchase my parts. I know I need a 383 crank(summit?), flywheel, connecting rods. I know I'm missing alot of things here so exactly what else do I need?

    If I get the 383 crank from summit, I won't have to do any machining except for the cylinders. I think... /forums/images/icons/confused.gif
    Any help and suggestions and tips and everything else will be greatly appreciated. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

    -help
     
  2. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    vortec heads, why not?
     
  3. Silver84k5

    Silver84k5 1/2 ton status

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    heh thats funny i was just laying in bed looking at a summit catalog trying to Map out my 383, and im not sure what all you need i think all is the crank you already said, pistons, connecting rods, i know something else is missing, Somone throw us a bone here ;]
     
  4. blwnbwtie

    blwnbwtie Registered Member

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    you have to use a 400 sb flywheel and balancer because of the balancing difference between the 350 and 400
     
  5. Silver84k5

    Silver84k5 1/2 ton status

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    and thats it?
     
  6. blwnbwtie

    blwnbwtie Registered Member

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    not positive if thats it never done it before but thats what ive read. Ive been thinking about doing it too. YAh might wanna flip through a hot rod magazine they have a few places that offer kits for resonable prices like enginekits.com for example. Maybe there techs can even tell you what exactly needs to be done
     
  7. Zeus33rd

    Zeus33rd Smarter than you GMOTM Winner

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  8. JIM88K5

    JIM88K5 1/2 ton status

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    I'm doing the same deal. I have already got a bunch of the small stuff, (gaskets, head bolt kit, ect...). Now I need the big ticket stuff.(New crank, pistons, intake, ect...).
    Slow road but gettin close.
    Jim
     
  9. MudbogAD

    MudbogAD 1/2 ton status

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    That summit 383 kit looks nice but it's pricy. Do you need the flywheel and h-balancer with their crank? What would be a good cam with a 383?

    Anybody here have this setup?

    Thanks for the help /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  10. muddysub

    muddysub 1 ton suburban status Staff Member Moderator GMOTM Winner

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    that kit is cheaper than buying everything seperate. i've looked through summit catalogs and checked. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
     
  11. MudbogAD

    MudbogAD 1/2 ton status

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    Not if I want different pistons.
     
  12. Redfrog

    Redfrog 1/2 ton status

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    depending on what rods you use they *may* hit the camshaft so you have to grind on the rods also you *may* have to grind the bottom of the block because of the longer stroke of the crank the rods*may* hit...

    go to www.chevytalk.com and do a search it should clear up all of your questions
     
  13. Rebel88

    Rebel88 1/2 ton status

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    dont buy a crank from summit...try and find a 400 crank and have it turned...itll probably be cheaper than buying a brand new one

    Later
     
  14. TWISTEDJACK

    TWISTEDJACK 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Cheaper yes. Weaker yes. You have to pay for strength.
    Horsepower is cheap, strength is not. The 400 cranks
    have been know to break. It is a whole lot cheaper to
    buy a good crank than going back and rebuilding after the
    crank breaks. my $.02 /forums/images/icons/wink.gif
     
  15. zcarczar

    zcarczar 1/2 ton status

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    I think jegs has a pertty good deal on the stroker kit. YOu even have some choices too, unlike the summit kit. Jegs Stroker Kit
     
  16. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    Well, I have done the 388 build up. I purchased a new Scat 383 crank from Northern Auto Parts. I used KB 12cc dish pistons, PAW 5.7" H-beam rods, Comp 4X4 Xtreme 254H cam, and then the typical rebuild stuff. I used a Streetdampner externally balanced harmonic dampner and had a weight welded onto the flywheel mounting flange. The local machine shop is run by a very successful circle track racer and he welds the weight onto the crank instead of using the 400 flywheel. That way you can switch trannies without having to rebalance the whole works.

    I had to clearence the block for the longer stroke and bigger H-beam rods. But I didn't have to worry about the rods hitting the cam because of the relative small lift on the cam (0.447I/0.462E) and the rods use cap screws rather than bolts.

    I am very happy with the power it makes. I would never build just a 350 again.

    If anyone has any specific questions, PM me..... /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     
  17. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I too have this dream!
    I have a naked block ready. I have found that the tuffest part for me is getting ALL the parts to match(blueprint type matching). Now I have a block next I need to figure out what heads to run so i can figure out what pistons I need then the cam and valve train need to match and then.......AAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!
    All this maddness may be the reason I still only have a bare block!! Well that and my 350 hasen't died yet. Here are a few other kit places
    http://www.strokerkits.com/383.htm
    http://www.scatcrankshafts.com/index.html
    http://www.speedomotive.com/
    http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action=catalog_start&catid=63
    Good luck
     
  18. blwnbwtie

    blwnbwtie Registered Member

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    Hey beast how much was the total cost on the 383?
     
  19. blwnbwtie

    blwnbwtie Registered Member

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    Ive been thinking about just doing the PAW kit its a long block kit includes block, crank, pistons,rods,cam, heads all the gaskets and pretty much everything you need to do it for $2k. Its a bit pricy but its all there. ALl you need is the fly wheel and the balancer.
     
  20. Beast388

    Beast388 1/2 ton status

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    I went the expensive route. I built the motor I wanted. Excluding the bare head castings and valves, I came in at about $3400, including machine work. I went all out with the expensive rods, ARP fasteners everywhere etc. One could be built for less money. /forums/images/icons/grin.gif
     

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