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Building the Ultimate GM vehicle

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by miniwally, Apr 25, 2006.

  1. miniwally

    miniwally 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    So,
    Last year for the Ultimate Adventure Petersons built the Ultimate K-10.
    There seemed to be a good deal of dissatisfaction with their direction of build (cost). They used a bunch of cool dude parts that we would not use if it was us building the vehicle.
    With all of that in mind what would you guys think would be a good vehicle for Ultimate Adventure.
    You have a decent selection of vehicles to choose from and they all need tons of work to make into the reliable good looking vehicle that needs to appear sometime in the summer somewhere in the United states.
    So what is it,
    Clean classy suburban, regular cab truck, crewcab truck etc.

    The possibility of this truck getting torn up is very high and it still needs to be able to drive some of the toughest trails in the country as well as drive at least 1,000 miles on the highway. Haul all of the camping gear for a couple of guys for a week as well as spares ect.

    What would you build if you had the chance to do it??
     
  2. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    I already have :D
    [​IMG]
    Plenty of room to carry stuff too:
    [​IMG]
    Rockin ina First Gen!
    YYYYYYYYEEEEEEEEEEEHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!
     
  3. nvrenuf

    nvrenuf NONE shall pass! Premium Member

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    If you could pick & choose...


    platform = 87 swb K10 (tbi for dependability)

    Ideally a 4spd truck so you could benefit from the low crawl ratio if a Doubler was not in the budget.
     
  4. miniwally

    miniwally 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    Burt would yuo be willing to see every panel dented after 1 week of wheeling?
    Your blazer is to pretty for that IMO, but a vehicle that is already not in the best of shape in the first gen realm might be possible.

    A doubler would probably fit the budget.
    The standards like a front 60 locked up, and 14 bolt rear locked up are givens.

    Remember you have a budget, not a big one but also not a small one either.
    The need to use factory parts that are in good condition is a must to stay in the budget. However everything should be gone through to verify reliabilty.
     
  5. jekbrown

    jekbrown I am CK5 Premium Member GMOTM Winner Author

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    old chevy... like late 60s or early 70s. Regular cab, custom flatbed. 454/400/203/205/60/14. Doesn't get any more all-american old-school beefy than that. :thumb:

    j
     
  6. supersize75k5

    supersize75k5 OrganDonorRacing.com

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    military k30

    single cab, 454, 4 speed and a non slip yoke version 205

    already has 4.56 and one tons, detroits for reliability.,frame is a little bigger, enclosed cab for the difference in enviroment or climate

    no crew cab because I dont want to hear 4 passengers whine about some wierd smell for 1000 miles:D and to keep the wheel base reasonable., bashed dooors dont always open anyways.

    tires, 37's or 40 inch mtr

    2 spares, full bed rack, equiped with a rear winch, small hoist, roll out/slide out tool tray box, on board air, on board welder, built, but not overbuilt bumpers, with a good approach. long travel rear shocks, in a non factory location to keep them from rippin off.

    as for the bed, tastfully tapered and bobed for departure,, front stays full size while the fangs on the fenders get hacked off. Interior gets spray in bed liner and nasty carpet that would retain moisture gets yanked.

    6 inch lift, interior cage tied to rear bed cage and rack set up, seats are from a 99 burb or gm truck, buckets with a aftemarket stealth consol with a amped 10 inch sub..

    and actual floor monted cuo holders for my 64 oz thirst buster:D
     
  7. blazinzuk

    blazinzuk Buzzbox voodoo Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    Any longbox pickup. Leave the huge wheelbase and build a flat bed, thats only if you want to haul two poeple though. I think you would need about 8" of lift to help with the breakover angles and such I would also run 44s on it once again because it is such a long vehicle. I would also want a 4 speed.
     
  8. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    You forget I got mad driving skills so the sheet metal damage would be minimal :eek1: :rolleyes: :p: :D hehehe
    Over the last 13yrs I have replaced just about every bolt or part..So "gone thru" ya did that!
    In my mind my rig is perrrrfect :bow:
    Prolly a good thing I am the only one in my mind...well except for that one visitor......:doah:
    heheheee
    Too much coffee today :D

    Anyway I agree it must have this:
    454/465/203/205/60/14.
     
  9. MTBLAZER89

    MTBLAZER89 3/4 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I agree 87 Shortbox. TBI mild 350 not major power = less breakage:wink1: . Maybe a flatbed tapered for tree/rock clearance. 4spd with a 241 would give a decent crawl ratio and be OK on the hiway. You could clock the 241 up and get some belly clearance and protect it from the rocks. SYE would be a must too. Prolly 4.56 in the axles with ~ 38-42 Iroks. 52's front and some 56's or 63's with a flip in the rear. 14B dana 60 with detroits or even weld the rear and save some $$. Couple of stout bumpers good sliders..maybe boatside it 6" or so a cage a winch and wheel it.:D
     
  10. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I like what they built last year, but just do the same basic thing with less blingy$$$ parts. Maybe start out with a later model with TBI 350.

    - Get rid of the $4,000 BFG Krawler and Hutchinson beadlock set and replace it with something "normal" like steel beadlocks and Swampers for half the price.

    - Get rid of the Ramjet 350 and do a mild build on the stock TBI 350 for half the price.

    - Get rid of the custom Dana 60 front and replace with a junkyard Chevy D60 front. Use a Detroit instead of the ARB, and use Yukon shafts and Longfield joints versus the Superiors and CTMS.........again you are probably looking at half the price or more.

    - Get rid of the rear ARB and replace with a Detroit.
     
  11. DavidB

    DavidB 1/2 ton status

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    Wow, this guy hit the nail on the head. Pretty much my intended build. I'd want EFI (Vortec) and slushbox though. CUCV = no emissions crap to deal with too. I wanna put a couple benches in the back to haul people sometimes too. Exo cage instead of interior = no broken glass to replace if ya roll it.
     
  12. mikey_d05

    mikey_d05 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    -standard cab SWB
    -tapered front
    -bobbed and tapered bed or tube bed
    -Junkyard D60, 5.13's, Detroit, Yukon shafts, Longfield joints
    -Junkyard 14BFF, 5.13's, Detroit, ATOR/WMS shafts (if they're still made)
    -15" steel single locks wrapped with some sort of rubber that's around 40" tall
    -TBI 350 or 454
    -NV4500 or TH400
    -Doubler or Klune in front of a 205 (Of course it'll be a doubler)
    -Front and rear winches
    -Tube front and rear bumper
    -52's or 56's in front, 56's + shackle flip in the rear, around 4" of lift
    -Interior cage with a few connections to the outer tubework
    -OBA, OB welder
    -Bedliner for carpet
    -Aftermarket suspension seats
     
  13. miniwally

    miniwally 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    So a quick summary so far:

    The bulk of the responses say
    Regular cab with internal cage.
    Tube or bobed bed
    Some tube work on the outside for the best body protection to tube work ratio
    Good reliable TBI motor (454 would be cool)
    14B/60 locked to each their own on locker type
    doubler if budget allows if not than 241 with SYE
    Transmission is individual choice. Iwould use a TH350 or 400


    Knowing that the body is going to get bashed only the best of the body panels that could be found at the local salvage yard would be used. Would you even worry about fixing the minor dents and dings or just do the $100 make it all the same color paint job.
     
  14. mikey_d05

    mikey_d05 1 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    Sounds like the 'gist of everything that was said. I wouldn't give a damn about the body. Bondo the rust holes and do the $100 Maco special. Dents and dings stay, the body is going to get trashed anyways.
     
  15. theperfectgarage

    theperfectgarage 1/2 ton status

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    First gens do rule, that is an awesome truck. :bow:
     
  16. miniwally

    miniwally 1/2 ton status Premium Member

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    What about a crew cab that is kinda already started along the way but is just to long.
    A little frame cutting and bed bob later and you got a party barge that could go well.
    Ultimate Adventure has not had a long wheelbase in a few years.
     
  17. Burt4x4

    Burt4x4 3/4 ton status

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    Sounds like Willywanters rig.
    I think his WAS a late 90s Silvarado CCab
    Hey you could even sleep in the back seat :D
     
  18. Masiony

    Masiony 1/2 ton status

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    i say a late 80's k5 with TBI and a 241. put some cucv axles w/ some 40's and some 52/56 spings. throw a locker in the front and make a cage, then go beat the hell out of it. see, im already started...
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2006
  19. yellowK20

    yellowK20 Well Lubricated Premium Member GMOTM Winner

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    78' K-30 reg cab Banks'd 6.5 (Cummins 610 would be preferable but to much weight),NV4500 203/205, 5.13 detroit front , 5.13 spool rear disc braked In cab cage .56" 4" lift springs front ,DIY shackle flip rear 6'' shackles 56's backwords with spring hangers moved forward 3" remove bed cut off excess frame build a bedcage/toolboxholder/30gallon fuelcell/spares mount that ties in to cab cage and 3x6x3/8" rockers and doubles as a shockmount for rear shocks, Hydro assist with crossover and hysteer, winch "frenched"into lower part of core support,tube doors,Cutting brakes,Mico lock,Yukon shaft in front,electric fan,rocklights, 1410 HAD, yellowtop optima's.........Oh yeah and some Horre lights for the cab Ohalmost forgot 47 ltb's on miltary 12 bolt H-1 wheels (recenterd of course)
     
  20. Chaddy

    Chaddy 1/2 ton status GMOTM Winner

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    I would say
    Shortbox
    400tbi
    th400
    lomax205 or np241sye
    tube bed
    beadlocked 17s with 37 inch Maxxis Trepadors
    Full hydro steering
    60-14 chromo shafts CTMs 4.88's Detroits Crane diff covers
    internal cage boatsided
     

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