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Busted castilated socket on b. joint adj. sleeve!!!.....

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by will89, Feb 5, 2003.

  1. will89

    will89 1/2 ton status

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    In trying to remove the adjusting sleeve on the upper ball joint I broke the castilated (4 prong) socket. All 4 prongs broke off. Fortunatley the broken prongs were easily removed from castilated nut inside the yoke. picture of socket
    I even gave the sleeve several days of soaking penetrating lube while I was waiting for the part and I got it pretty hot with a propane torch (don't have an oxy/act) before I tried to crack it. I heard a few cracks though, in fact 4 of them, and I thought it was the sleeve loosening- it wasn't.

    Now Im waiting for another socket from snap on. But its a sticky situation because I imagine if you ruin the threads on the axle/yoke you're in big trouble??? The adjusting sleeve is definitely a softer metal too so if the prongs slip and burr it up I don't know how the hell you get it out???? These are the original 89 ball joints so Im working against all those years of rust. Im actually surprised though because there isn't really any rust in there.....
    How do non backyard mechanics get past this one. Im sure they see plenty of stubborn ball joint sleeves?

    what have i done to deserve this...
     
  2. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Man you have it all wrong, you are supposed to pop the ball joint out then work on the castilated joint.
     
  3. will89

    will89 1/2 ton status

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    uh...ok.. I guess I better get back to the manual.

    How should I pop it out? Big Hammer?
     
  4. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    You have to loosen both the top one and the botom one, and use a pickle fork with a BFH.
    When you want to put it back on is when you need the tool.
     
  5. will89

    will89 1/2 ton status

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    I still don't get it... If you bang it through it looks like you would be pulling the threads of the b.j. stud through the adjusting sleeve which is threaded to both the stud and the axle flange? Is my axle different than what you are talking about? I think it is a corp 10bolt.

    It looks like you have to remove the sleeve first???
     
  6. Blazer1970

    Blazer1970 1/2 ton status

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    The adjusting sleeve is only threaded into the knuckle. The ID of the sleeve is not threaded onto the ball joint. You have to break the ball joints loose from the knuckle first as indicated above.
     
  7. will89

    will89 1/2 ton status

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    It just looks like you have to drive the threads of the b.j. stud right through the middle of the adj. sleeve and that seems impossible. Do I just bang the top of the joint with the BFH? Or, do I bang the pickle fork in the side?I know if I damage the threads on the knuckle Im screwed too...
     
  8. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    It will come off without messing with the castle nut. Take the bottom nut loose and give the knucke a few whacks and it usualy falls right off. The nut only preloads the ball joints when your reassembling. If it's frozen in there then you can take a hack saw blade and make a some cut up to the threads and that will usualy get it free. All the Ball joints I have bever bought came with a new nut. I have been buying TRW's at Advanced.
     
  9. will89

    will89 1/2 ton status

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    Yeah..Ive been banging the top of the bj stud, the knuckle..everything, and it won't budge. Is it ok to wail on the top of the bj stud that hard?
     
  10. Triaged

    Triaged 1/2 ton status

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    As long as you are going to replace it is doesn't matter...except that you can't carry it as a spare.
     
  11. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    i just replaced mine and it's a 74. get a BFH and beat the SH!T out of the top balljoint, it will let go. one small note when the knuckle does let loose whatch yer tose cause that thing will come crashing down /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif. also if your doing it on concrete i would put a small piece of plywood down cause i was worried i smashed the studs on the knuckel when it hit the shop floor and i might booger up the studs on the knuckle
     
  12. will89

    will89 1/2 ton status

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    The thing is..... is that it seems like the sleeve is threaded to the knuckle and the ball joint stud?? I have an 89 1/2 ton and I think it is a corp 10bolt.
     
  13. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    the sleeve is not threaded to the ball joint.

    tell ya what do you have the new ones yet? go the the shop and buy yer new ball joints and you can examine how they go together. this way you might feel better about beating the sh!t out of the old one. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  14. will89

    will89 1/2 ton status

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    Ok..Im just gonna wack it good. But what is it hanging up on?
     
  15. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    friction /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif the ball joints have to pressed in with a hydralic press or a ball joint clamp.
    i don't me to be an a$$ but have you read a manual or anything befor attempting this. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
     
  16. will89

    will89 1/2 ton status

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    yeah I have the haynes and the helm. Im just not used to beating parts this hard and I don't want to mess up the knuckle. I just seems counterintuitive trying to push the stud though the threads- at least thats what it looks like. I beleive you guys that the inside of the sleeve is not threaded so tonight I'll really beat the crap out of it.

    Haynes just isn't that detailed on ball joints. Helm is great but they sent me manuals for the c/k series trucks and I didn't realize it til after the 30 days. So, the V series manuals are on the way- another 96$. Anyone want buy c/k series manuals, please? The chick at helm actually told me to sell them on ebay...can u beleive that. I got them when I first got the sub and just didn't know about the c/k & v series differences. Oh well, somebody has to be the rookie.
     
  17. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    V series truck is the same as the 87 down K and C series. only thing different is some sheetmetal on the front and some wiring for the FI.
    Save you money because the manuals you have will cover 99% of what you ever need to know and the rest of the stuff you can get copies of from your local libray for 10 cents a copy.

    Try this to get it off. Stick a long crow bar through the spindle opening into the end of the axle tube to lever against. Put the bottom nut on about 2-3 turns (so the knuckle cant just hit the ground). Stand on the crow bar to put some load on the joints and give the yokes on the axle housing where the ball joints pass through a couple of good pops with a ball peen. That's called shocking and it cause the metal to release. I used that truck on one of my trucks that was being stuborn. Took it off after the second try.
     
  18. will89

    will89 1/2 ton status

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    good tip..with the crow bar. We'll see how it goes!

    As for the c/k helm series manuals, they seem to have very little on straight axles. Its almost all IFS....
     
  19. beater74

    beater74 1/2 ton status

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    yeh those haynes manuals usually aren't worth a crap.

    good luck let us know how it goes /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  20. the professor

    the professor 1/2 ton status

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    Trying to get a ball joint, tie rod, or other taper fit out...
    --
    Hit the supporting structure from the side...while applying pressure to the part to be removed
    --
    i.e.
    trying to remove a tie rod end, pry down (up)on the tie rod, and hit the steering arm on the side...trying to remove a ball joint, pry on the ball joint and hit the spindle on the side HARD....
    --
    It also helps to have the "ball joint remover set" for the D44/GM corporate front axle, but you still will have to hit the spindle (where the ball joint goes through)
    -
    When the ball joint is loose, put you castilated socket in the holes, and while trying to turn it, have someone wack the spindle...HARD with a small sledge hammer
    --
    IT WILL NEVER come out with out the "shock treatment" and I doubt if it will come loose with the ball joint installed...
    --
    Steve Marusic...ASE Master, Chevy, Ford, Honda master tech...40years... /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
     

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