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C-Clip Eliminator

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by ChevyCaGal, Sep 8, 2001.

  1. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    I pretty much decided against using c-clip eliminators on the 14 bolt semi floater I will be getting installed in the next few weeks. But a few people say I should get them. Should I or not... any advantage? What about the disadvantages? If they suck I'd rather not drop a few hundred bucks on them... thanks. [​IMG]

    How can I miss you if you won't go away? [​IMG]
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  2. Pugsley

    Pugsley 1/2 ton status

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    C-clip eliminators only guarantee one thing - they leak. They are really more designed toward drag racing or other purposes with minimal side loading. I'd just do without them if I were you.

    1 tequila 2 tequila 3 tequila Floor
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  3. DesertDueler

    DesertDueler 1/2 ton status

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    Stay away from bolt on c-clip eliminators. They are not street friendly. My shop has put alot on drag cars and street cars. They are ment for straight line only. Taking turns, or flexing will cause them to leak badly. Just carry an extra axle. BTW I have seen an axle break and come out with a c-clip eliminator. The bearing failed, and allowed the axle to come out. The only way to do it correctly is have custom ends welded on the axle, like the ends of a ford 9".

    86 Jimmy 4"lift 35"MTRs Other cars 69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
     
  4. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    That's pretty much what I thought... I was looking at them from Moser and only saw them for cars and not trucks... I emailed them and they told me they didn't recommend them. I recalled someone else asking this and the general idea was they sucked... but someone told me they have seen axles fly loose without them and to stay away from rocks because they saw bad outcomes without them being used... so I thought I would ask to make sure....

    How can I miss you if you won't go away? [​IMG]
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  5. coopertwpk

    coopertwpk 1/2 ton status

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    You should nt have to worry about the c clips on the 14B they should stand up to your wheeling.

    88k5 silverado w4"lift <font color=orange>d44 and corp14ff</font color=orange> with 4.56s
     
  6. purple89jimmy

    purple89jimmy Registered Member

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    The key word there being "SHOULD". A 14bsf is abeefy axle, but bounce on it with big tires and it can break. Guess I was wrong about the eliminators, but I would still be aware of the c-clips.
     
  7. bigjbear

    bigjbear 1 ton status Staff Member Moderator

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    The eliminators are a bad idea on a truck that will be wheeled. I've seen them crack/leak on street/strip cars. If you are concerned with an axle spitting out at the wrong time then do a disc brake swap. The caliper will retain the rotor, which will be bolted to the axle flange, thus keeping the tire in place. Do not try and drive it this way, though. It is always good pratice to carry spare shafts if you are worried about breaking one.

    Jim '80 GMC & '73 Blazer
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  8. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    The rear 14b semi floater will have the disc brake conversion on it so that's cool... and yeah I will carry an extra shaft. I honestly am not into being crazy. But of course if I go to Hollister or what have you with the guys like before I might be talked into trying something and then busting something. But that's ok, gotta pay to play! [​IMG]

    How can I miss you if you won't go away? [​IMG]
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  9. mike reeh

    mike reeh 1/2 ton status

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    This is my opinion: Run the 14SF if you want but dont spend a dime to upgrade it.. just throw in a 14FF.. any money that you have to spend to retro fit the full floater will be WELL worth it. and it will not break. I had C-clip eliminators on a 12 bolt posi that I had in an old muscle car, they leak but it can be fixed, and done right, they do have to be welded onto the end of the axle tube.. run the 14SF for a while and keep your eyes open for a FF, you'll never look back..

    mike
     
  10. ChevyCaGal

    ChevyCaGal 3/4 ton status

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    I just bought the 14b sf and have to install it... so this will be with me axle wise for a very long time. I opted to not swtich around a 14b ff to suit my need. I wanted to stay 6 lug to keep my rims. Now that I got my tries replaced for free (all be it 33's [​IMG]) I am glad I went to route. New tires and rims would have been more then $1800 because I would have gotten MT rims and then some swamper tires... besides after watching Matt beat the poo outta this axle and it hold up I think I will not break it unless I do something way dumb like try Little Sluice on the Rub without a spotter....[​IMG]

    How can I miss you if you won't go away? [​IMG]
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  11. FRIZZLEFRY

    FRIZZLEFRY 1/2 ton status

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    If a C clip fails, having rear disk brakes will keep the axle from parting ways with the vehicle.

    A balanced diet is a beer in both hands.<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang>community.webshots.com/user/beaterwhang</a>
     
  12. 6.2Blazer

    6.2Blazer 1/2 ton status

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    I would not recommend installing a c-clip eliminator as they are not designed for off-roading.

    The only disadvantage to a c-clip type rear axle is IF you break an axleshaft, and with the beefy 33-spline shafts you would probably have to try pretty hard to do so. Look at all of the people that are running 12-bolts with only 30-spline shafts and are having good luck during hard wheeling'.

    I have also seen semi-floating rear axles without c-clips (such as rear Dana 44's) that have spit out axle shafts when the wheel bearings went bad or the flanges break. Plus, the vehicle really isn't driveable with a broken axle shaft unless it's a full-floating design anyway.
     
  13. purple89jimmy

    purple89jimmy Registered Member

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    Good note on the disc brakes. That kills two birds with one stone.
     
  14. 84_Chevy_K10

    84_Chevy_K10 Banned

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    That's what I was thinking, then I was wondering how she was going to do it. My 14 SF is 8 lug, I had forgotten about the 6 lug ones.

    I have a 14 SF. I have destroyed both a 10 bolt and 12 bolt, but never seen either of those two break a shaft with what we do here. I have not broken my 14 SF. Ask me next year though, I might find a way.

    Tim
    '84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
     
  15. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

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    Yeah stay away from them. You know I have never personaly seen a C clip axle on a 12 bolt fail. I have seen a couple D35's let go but not a 12. Seen pictures but not in person. Yeah loosing the wheel would suck but this doesn't happen on the street often it happens on the trail when your moving 2mph. Yeah it sucks to have your truck hit the ground but if you can't take the dent you don't need to be on the trail. The 2 times I saw it happen we would move the truck a couple feet then high lift it and shove the axle back in and move it a couple feet and were able to get them to a level spot to change the shaft. The other option is to chain a chunk of tree to the axle and sled it to a spot to work on it.
    Now why I posted this to who I did. I don't like even the 9 inch on a trail truck. It's a neat axle and I like the way the drop out carrier works but it has issues in a trail truck. I went wheeling this weekend and we ended up having to take some down time to fix a 9 inch on a buds truck. Granted he drove out and to the place we repaired it. This is not the first time I have seen this happen on a 9 either. when they get side loaded they crack the bearings and then cut the seal. I have seen this just as often has D35's snapping shafts.
    My bud was in no way being hard on his 79 F150 but we went through a place where it got some heavy side loading off camber and did exactly as I described. He had a spare axle (well his brother in the 79 Bronco did) and we ended up changing it and in the process dropped the truck. We had to get both back wheels in the air because of the Detroit keeping us from spinning the wheel to access the bearing retainer bolts. Well we had the truck level and so we didn't have to lift the truck any more than we had to we used a couple bottle jacks on some wood planks. Truck slid off and luckily we had thrown the tires under the back bumper so it only dropped about 6 inches and nobody was hurt. We ended up having to stabalize the truck side to side with come-a-longs. It took way more time to do the job than it would have to do a 12 bolt where we would have had to open up the diff. We would only need the one wheel off the ground and drop the drive shaft if we couldn't slide the truck foward enough to acess the C-Clip. Course a 12 bolt or any c-clip axle would have never cut a seal like that by design.
    Also to be eco friendly...keep a decent sized amo box in your truck to catch the oil. That way you can catch it in a sealable container and dispose of it properly.

    It's not my damn planet monkey boy!
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  16. 90blzr

    90blzr 1/2 ton status

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    Well, since your axle is all together and the disk brake will keep the axle in, I'll just throw it out anyways. When I was building the axle (12bolt) for my Elco, I too was looking into c-clip eliminators, and was told if it was driven on the street at all, they would leak. So I called Moser and talked to one of there guys. I ended up getting the Ford style housing ends (I think some others have them too). You cut off the ends of the axle and have these welded on. Dont know if they have them for truck axles though.
     
  17. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    hehe...friend just had the axle flange rip off his oval track race cars 9". (and its not fast either lol) Even with Disk brakes, the axle passed him on the track. Obviously that was at the track, but on a truck off road, that woulda really sucked. C-clip that wouldn't have happened.

    Dorian
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