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CAD drawing of my shock idea...am i doomed??

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by zakk, Oct 23, 2002.

  1. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    [​IMG]

    Ok...here it is. Thanks to Goldrush's input, i have revamped my "shocks trough the bed" idea.

    In this version (v. 3.0 for those scoring at home) I have allowed for lateral movement of the shocks. the reason being is that with a leaf suspension, when at droop there is an angle that the mounts would have to "flex" to under factory mounting options.

    So i am taking a page out of the inboard mounted shocks idea and using shock mounting pins so that there is give when i am stuffed on one side, and full droop at the other. This, as far as i can tell, is the best of ALL worlds.

    I am still inspecting mounting ideas, as far as inside the frame or outside. not sure yet. but one thing at a time.

    Comments, complains, flames, suggestions, rants, raves welcomed! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  2. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    Well, when I ran through this discussion with a racer, he said that this way is the best for the crawlers. That being that a lot of times, one side is drooped and the other stuffed, so there has to be shock movement.

    Are you planning on having a cross brace on the hoops? I really like the idea of the shocks on top of the axle, offers protection from big granite things. Have you done any measuring for the shocks yet, or are you still in the planning stages?
     
  3. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    1) yes, the shock hoops will be triagulated against each
    other

    2) no. i have yet to recieve the Springer Suspension and i am debating on wether or not to tub the rear of the truck. if i do, it will cut down on shock mounting options, but i will have Uber-rear flex, especially if i can get this crazy shock mounting idea of mine to work /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
     
  4. Bubba Ray Boudreaux

    Bubba Ray Boudreaux 1 ton status

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    Really don't think you're idea is crazy, it's different. It's taking a couple things from two different disciplines and putting them together. I don't think you will have a problem getting it to work out.
     
  5. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    I like how the shock body is mounted facing UP (the RIGHT way, if you ask me! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif)

    Is the shock mounted to the inside of the hoops or the outside of the hoops? The reason I'm asking is that those hoops will likely be welded/bolted to the tops of the framerails, so they will be substantially "inboard" already, the shock should then be placed on the outside of them.

    As far as getting the shock mounts on TOP of the axle, I'd say it's great for getting them out of the way of rocks. The only arguement I can think of against it, is that the factory setups used mounts further out front the axle to help counterract axle wrap. It's not a complete solution, but it probably helped a little. Putting the shock mount on the very top would not provide any damping against that effect.....but to be honest, it's probably minimal anyway so you are probably choosing the better overall solution.

    My only other suggestion is to measure out the rear suspension, frame and shock hoop ideas and draw them "to scale" on some graph paper (or CAD if you're a stud!) then you can start twisting the rear axle and looking for interferences with the wheel tubs, and also make sure the shock body won't collide with anything as it travels through it's "arc" of movement.

    That's all I can think of at 7AM....!


    When you're ready, we can build it. I've been playing with my bender for the last 2 days, and I'm getting STRONG.... I might let you do some of the pulls though, it gets tiring especially with 2" DOM.!!!!
     
  6. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    Zakk,

    Your stuff will be in transport by this Saturday.... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

    I think your hoops look great. I agree w/ the point Greg made about a little bit of axle wrap deterrent from the little "lever arm" on the stock bracket. But... you could easily add a traction device later if you had wrap probs.

    Just make sure that the lower shock mount is out farther (towards the tire) than the inner - this is to say the shocks are tilted in a little / \ in your head-on view. When it droops and the other side stuffs, remember that it will need to swing in an arc toward the center of the truck - and you don't wanna be banging your shock on the frame at that point. I can't wait to see the finished product.. /forums/images/graemlins/pimp1.gif

    Marv
     
  7. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    than with the tubbing idea, it might be best to mount the shocks inside the frame (?)

    I placed them on top to keep them out of harms way and the ability to gusset them to increase strenght. I am not sure how to "cycle" the suspension on paper, so if anyone is an Uber CAD stud, lemme know! i did all this in MS Paint /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  8. marv_springer

    marv_springer 1/2 ton status

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    No.. still outside the frame.

    I could be wrong, but I'm thinkin' that there's room if hoop is mounted directly above the framerail, then the top mount would be just outstide the frame. The lower mount however would need to be out more towards the tire to clear the frame during the "arc" that I was describing.

    Marv
     
  9. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    If you mount the shocks vertically (from the side view of the truck) then you may run out of room outside the framerails. However, if you angle them slightly forward at the top (as well as slightly IN, as Marv suggested) there might be enough room to still keep everything outside the framerails. It's a real brain-twister to think in X-Y-Z axes in your head....it would make sense on paper or when you saw it in person.

    My own rear shocks are angled forward as well as "in" towards the center of the truck and it seems to work well. With flexier springs, all bets are off though!!!! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  10. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    hmmmm....i think I will need to check that. I plan on usinf Summit Racing's 40" Steel tubs, and the increased width may be probitive, but i definately see what you are saying, Marv. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  11. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    Greg, do you mean in as in "inboard"? or in as in angled back tword the anchor, err, i mean 14B /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
     
  12. Greg72

    Greg72 "Might As Well..." Staff Member Super Moderator

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    From the side view of your truck it would look like this:

    /


    That's looking at the rear suspension from the passenger's side. The top of the shock is aiming more towards the front of the truck.

    Then, from the rear of the truck it looks like this:

    / \


    Both shocks are angled "IN" also....so you see the shocks are angled in TWO axes, not just one! Does your brain hurt yet?

    Do what I did...cut a small piece of 2x2" scrap wood to the size of a your shock at 1/2 extension, and then start slapping it around under the truck and see what works....of course you'll have to cut holes in the floor too before that will really work for you. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
     
  13. BadDog

    BadDog SOL Staff Member Super Moderator Author

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    Greg, your describing exactly the way mine are done. Zak's just would need to be more vertical (or much stiffer) due to much higher vehicle sprung weight. I posted a pic on Zak's old shock thread.
     
  14. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

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    Lots of comments and ideas here that are great, but I have one big comment on the design:
    you have the shock working in one plane, not 3d, you should turn one of the mounting bolts 90 degrees, so you have movement in both directions because as you mentionned, the axle will move back and forth as it cycles up and down due to the arch in the springs.
    Otherwise the setup is nice and seems to work in my book.
    As for the lower mounting point that GM did, they did say that it shoud help in the wrap but it was mostly to install a longer shock.
    In the front you can see they put it on the back, but in the rear they staggered them supposedly to help against the wrap, so if it works, why do they have the front different?
    Just my 2 cents.
     
  15. zakk

    zakk 1/2 ton status

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    ok...i will redo the art tonight. i have meetings at skool until 9pm /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif but after that, i'll get cracking on it /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     

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