Dismiss Notice

Welcome To CK5!

Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.

Score a FREE t-shirt and membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.

caddy brake conversion problem question....

Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by 88streetblaze, Nov 7, 2002.

  1. 88streetblaze

    88streetblaze 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2001
    Posts:
    314
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    middle of sticks, oklahoma
    ok, i've done the conversion and everything works, BUT, under normal braking, there is barely a noticible pull to the right, under medium light braking it is more noticible, under medium braking it's not there at all, under heavy braking i thought i was going to flip the truck. all of the brake system is completly new front and back, flushed and bleed the lines and am very confident that there is no air anywhere in the lines, new hoses, calipers, pads, everything is greased and moves freely. I do not have the emergency brake cables on yet, but when i did install the rear i ratched the lever on both sides until there was equal amount of drag.

    so the only thing that i have noticed is when i am under the truck and have some one step on the brakes is the rear calipers, one side the lever slams down and the other one i can't move without a hammer now, is this a sign the the new calipers are crap? or am i overlooking something?
     
  2. Stoopalini

    Stoopalini 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2000
    Posts:
    999
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Austin, Texas
    I also did this conversion with the caddi calipers. I mounted my calipers at a 45' angle, instead of parallel to the ground. Because of this, I had to take the calipers off of the bracket, put a piece of wood between the pads, and bleed them that way.

    Because they are pointed upward at that angle, I can't bleed them fully while they are bolted on the truck.

    Just something to consider, it really sounds like there's air in the lines to me ....

    Thomas.
     
  3. 88streetblaze

    88streetblaze 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2001
    Posts:
    314
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    middle of sticks, oklahoma
    it took all night but i held the calipers onto the rotor where the bleeder screw was the high point and bleed them that way, like i said i don't think it's air in the lines, the brakes feel fine and when it happens it feels more like a calier that hangs and grabs all of the sudden. I orginally thought it was either the front brake hose or the pass. side caliper, but that didn't fix it. i think i'll just wait till i get the e-brake cables on then replace the rear caliper(s)....just thought maybe someone else had run into this before.
     
  4. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2002
    Posts:
    15,160
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    Hey did you remove the check ball in the MC?
    That is a check valve to keep pressure on the shoes, you should remove it when you convert to disc.
     
  5. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2000
    Posts:
    2,792
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    In the Burbs close to Tulsa, OK
    Funny you mention this. My rear disc do the same thing, but intermittently. Usually after I drive a few miles and they get good and warm. I thought it was pulling because of the front right caliper was bad, so I replaced it, and no changes. I re-bled all my brakes again, still does part of the time.

    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    so the only thing that i have noticed is when i am under the truck and have some one step on the brakes is the rear calipers, one side the lever slams down and the other one i can't move without a hammer now, is this a sign the the new calipers are crap? or am i overlooking something?

    [/ QUOTE ]
    What side is the arm slamming on? I need to check to see if mine is slamming too.
     
  6. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,979
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    Only one thing came to mind when you mentioned "worse when heated up" and that was oil contaminated pads.

    As odd as it may sound, oil on the brake pads will cause them to lock up when they heat up. I don't know how MUCH oil it takes for this to happen, but my rear axle seal leaked, and got fluid on the shoes. I cleaned them really well (so I thought) but when they got hot, it was embarrasing.

    Since the vehicle was stock, the one rear brake locking up wasn't dangerous, unlike what sounds like is happening with the Caddy change on the trucks, which is approaching dangerous.
     
  7. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2000
    Posts:
    2,792
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    In the Burbs close to Tulsa, OK
    I think you nailed my problem. I did have an leaking axle seal. I fixed the leak, but re-used the pads. I will replace the pads and that should fix it, right!?!
     
  8. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

    Joined:
    Dec 13, 2000
    Posts:
    26,979
    Likes Received:
    189
    Location:
    Roy WA
    Well, if you wanted to (I probably would if I wasn't certain that one side was really contaminated) you could swap the pads from one side to the other.

    It certainly does sound like your problem with that info, but it doesn't cost anything to swap side to side.

    Another thing to check when you end up with axle seal leaks: the rotor/drum surface. I bought a front end, and it pulled from the get go. Turns out something had gotten onto the rotor, and had been "baked" on. The pads couldn't do their job effectively because the surface wasn't smooth. Once I sandpapered the rotor smooth (and replaced the pads) the problem (pulling to one side) was gone.
     
  9. Grim-Reaper

    Grim-Reaper 3/4 ton status Author

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2000
    Posts:
    7,385
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Atlanta
    What check ball are you talking about?
     
  10. DPI

    DPI 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 22, 2000
    Posts:
    2,792
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    In the Burbs close to Tulsa, OK
    Thanks for the advice. The pads are so cheap, I will just go that direction.
     
  11. TX Mudder

    TX Mudder 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jul 10, 2000
    Posts:
    2,514
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Houston
    </font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
    What check ball are you talking about?

    [/ QUOTE ]

    I think he's talking about the residual valve.
    -- Mike
     
  12. imiceman44

    imiceman44 1 ton status

    Joined:
    Aug 5, 2002
    Posts:
    15,160
    Likes Received:
    1
    Location:
    Sacramento, CA
    I was reading an article and forgot that it was a drum /drum
    in that configuration, they say the MC has check balls in it that you need to remove for a disc/drum or disc/disc application.
    The trucks we hav don't have it because it's a disc/drum and they put the check valve for the rear in the PV.
    My bad
    /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
     
  13. 88streetblaze

    88streetblaze 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2001
    Posts:
    314
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    middle of sticks, oklahoma
    mine's does not get better or worse, it just depends on the amount of pressure applied, it shouldn't be a contamination problem, i replased all seals/bearings and new pads with the conversion.

    The rear driver side caliper is the side that would cause it to pull to the right, right? i think i'll replase that caliper first, this weekend.
     
  14. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2002
    Posts:
    908
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Hancock, MI
    Sounds like contaminated pads but it could be a bad caliper. Any kind of oil or grease will make them grab like you were clamping on the disc with a 20 ton hydraulic press. I've learned that some carburetor cleaners now have oil in them so don't use carb cleaner to wipe the discs off.

    If you VERY slowly roll on the binders does it just feel like a broken pad or a bad rotor but if you tap the pedal does that tire lock up without warning? If so, there's a 99% chance it's a contaminated pad. I mean, if you were going 2mph and you do a quick punch of the brakes (but not like you're going to stop) does that tire lock up?

    If you change the pads, don't forget to hit the rotor with some 320 grit and some brake clean.

    If you want to test the calipers just swap sides.
     
  15. 88streetblaze

    88streetblaze 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2001
    Posts:
    314
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    middle of sticks, oklahoma
    so, my dad has got the blazer today and i just talked to him and he replased the driver side caliper and it fixed it. i've had calipers go bad but never "NEW" calipers and the bad calipers i've seen have always been noticible under hard braking not light, well chalk one more up towards experience,
     
  16. wrathORC

    wrathORC 1/2 ton status

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2002
    Posts:
    908
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    Hancock, MI
    Cool

    To be honest, I have never seen a bad caliper. The only time I've ever seen one replaced is because ridges develop in the bores and the piston can't move and it's due to rust. Usually what happens is the vehicle sits for a long period of time and rust develops in the bore. Then it gets driven again and the piston moves out as the pads wear and it goes bad. And to quote my Dad, "even though I have all the tools to rebuild a caliper it costs about the same for a remanufactured one after you buy a rebuild kit".

    Can I ask how much they cost you?
     

Share This Page