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caddy caliper parts???

Discussion in 'The Garage' started by RootBreaker, Mar 10, 2005.

  1. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    Ok so it is my fault... I have had the parts to do the rear disc conversion for MONTHS now... I bought 1976 eldorado calipers from car-part.com for $45 to my door... anyhow.. they warrantied them for 90 days (basically guaranteeing they work or money back).... So I was having a problem getting one to move a while ago... so I used my air compressor and blew into the bleeder hole... MAKE SURE YOU HAVE 1 PAD IN SO WHEN IT SHOOTS OUT AND SOUNDS LIKE A SHOTGUN YOU DONT LOOSE THE PARTS!!!!

    anyhow... inside I replaced a few seals.. but noticed that there is a washer to which mine was in 8 pieces and another washer with 3 bearings in them... then another washer... well I need to know where to get those as the washer and the bearing piece are no good....

    or is it just better to use this as a core and try and find a new one??????
    any info greatly appreciated.. or I may just put d44 calipers on but I dont have a core... thus cheaper to go with caddy ones.....
     
  2. 85mudblazin

    85mudblazin 1/2 ton status

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    I am just asking but why did you want the piston to move?? you arnt supposed to move them at all :)
    I learned the hard way and it sounds like you did also.
     
  3. wraenking

    wraenking 1/2 ton status

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    i used my car-part ones as cores. well worth the money to get new ones.
     
  4. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    when I got them.. one was all rusty.... the piston itself.. so I too it apart... I took both apart... go the good one back to gether to use to see how it went back together...

    I think what I am going to do is just buy the d44 ones for now. I dont need an ebrake as I already passed inspection. I have 2 years until my next inspection...

    so autozone has d44 calipers for like $15.99 plus $10 core...so I will do that...

    $60 and I will be up and running as I will get the caddys later...
     
  5. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    aight... gonna just pickup d44 calipers tonight on my way home.... wife is going out so gonna pickup some beer and tear her apart...

    will let yall know how it goes later...
     
  6. HarryH3

    HarryH3 1 ton status Author

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    Those broken "washers" are actually bearing races. They're very hard, but as you found, they're also quite brittle. I have bought replacements in the past at a shop that just sells bearings. They measured the pieces and handed me new ones for around $1 each. :)
     
  7. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    I havent driven the truck yet to checkout the brakes... Some people say you dont need an adjustable portion valve and some say you do... we will see....


    Ok so here is Old Shool...
    [​IMG]


    Sorry was dark so I did not take any pics..... but here is the end result...

    Left
    [​IMG]

    Right
    [​IMG]


    Cant tell too well but nice and shiny...
    [​IMG]
     
  8. wraenking

    wraenking 1/2 ton status

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    so how they working for ya??
     
  9. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    dunno first line said I havent driven it yet...
    gonna go outside and adjust my carb first... then finish snorkel and then take it out to test brakes.. maybe going wheeling tomorrow...
    :cool1:
     
  10. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    took the truck out for a bit... brakes are not as responsive.. maybe air in the lines still... dunno...

    but the good thing is when i was going down a road a few weeks ago.. had to hit my brakes hard and the back end slid out from me as they locked up... now i can hit the brakes and seems to slow down faster and the back dont lock.. need to wear all the parts in then stomp on them... dont want to hit them too much hard now until they wear in....
     
  11. AkMudr

    AkMudr 1/2 ton status

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    Ever consider a pinion brake? Less functioning thing to go wrong because the parking brake is seperate from the functional brakes and you ditch 2 cables hanging down.
     
  12. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    yeah I think in 2 years I will do that when I am up for inspection... if they fail it I will have to go the caddy way :frown1:
     
  13. fliptuner

    fliptuner Registered Member

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    Here's a silly question: why'd you only run flexible lines on the one side?

    Also, just for future reference, if you're gonna be running the Caddy's, you'll want to mount the left on the right and VV, unless you want the ebrake lever to hang low.

    http://www.off-road.com/chevy/reviews/tsm/

    Luckily (or maybe not) I haven't run into that problem yet. SINCE I CAN'T FIND THEM BLOODY LEVERS AND SPRINGS!!!! :mad: :mad: :mad: :(
     
  14. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    He does have flex lines on both sides. The way his hard lines are routed is a little odd though, and combined with the camera angle it appears there is no flex line on the left side (although it is there...)

    Rene
     
  15. fliptuner

    fliptuner Registered Member

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    Ahhhh. I see it now. Didn't notice it loops around.

    i ar teh smrt :frown1:

    We should chat soon, Rene, but I'm too ashamed of my truck to call. :blush: :doah:
     
  16. tRustyK5

    tRustyK5 Big meanie Staff Member Super Moderator GMOTM Winner Author

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    Just call me Andrew. The state of your truck has nothing to do with whether or not you should call me. Maybe I can help...I don't work nights anymore.

    plus I lost yer damn number again...:blush:

    I'm home by 5:30 every night.

    Rene
     
  17. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    hmmm I was told to always put calipers on with bleeder up... seems that this guy put them on upside down... guess that would work but if I do that... I will be pulling on the ebrake and only getting 1/2 pull on the lever... currently yeah my levers are down so the ebrake is low but pulls on the axle and pulls the ebrake all the way....
     
  18. RootBreaker

    RootBreaker 3/4 ton status Premium Member

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    how about this adjustable???
    no pic but says fully adjustable and only $15.99

    http://store.summitracing.com/defau...rt=DCC-4452987&autoview=sku&Ntk=KeywordSearch

    found this for a pic somewhere else...
    [​IMG]

    from
    http://www.mopartsracing.com/parts/dtrain.html


    also reading on this...
    they say that they go on the back to restrict pressure..
    I am not having the back lockup but need to give more pressure to the rear...
    so this isnt going to amplify pressure... should something like this go in the front????
     
  19. dyeager535

    dyeager535 1 ton status Premium Member

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    Only way I'm aware of to increase pressure is to change the master cylinder...the front and rear pistons in the master cylinder are "independent" (even thought they are in the same bore) so I don't think restricting one will increase pressure in the other.

    I don't think the fittings are interchangeable, but if they are, put the front on the rear at the master and see what happens. :)
     
  20. wraenking

    wraenking 1/2 ton status

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    root. www.inlinetube.com

    call them and get the proportioning valve. i got one and a bunch of others run them and love them. for 40 bucks more its worth it

    if not, i have a brand new one like the one your looking at if you want it cheaper
     

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